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Sorry, forgot to add that. Clicker was set to 7 from full "Firm" with your setup for RX1. I set it back to 10 from full "Firm", so I could finish my ride for the day, along with FRA and rear spring adjustments. Forgot to add that adjustment to my post. Thx for asking :oops: Do you think...

LB, Thanks for the setup tips on the RX1. I set my '03 RX1 up the way you suggested-it truly rides like a "couch". There is absolutely NO ski lift, but, I'm using Viper Ski's (shallow keel), with longer links, and 11 mm sway bar. Track is a 9940 (pre-punched 9837, but no studs yet)...

Are you using premium octane fuel? Try using a tank of regular 87 octane. Burns much cleaner. No need for the extra octane, unless you're using different cams or a turbo.

One more thing you might want to do, since you already have the side panel off, and the oil tank is empty, is pull the the oil pickup off the bottom of the tank, and wipe the screen clean. It can get pretty loaded up with metal shavings left behind during manufacturing. Only takes about 2...

I wonder if it is the same kit that Yamaha was supplying for the Viper overheat problem. I have a part number for that kit. The Viper kit is 8EK-RHECR-KT-00. It's about $50. Does anyone know if this heat exchanger will fit the Warrior (is it too wide, hose fittings the correct size, etc.)?

RX1, did your dealer give you a part number or bulletin number to reference, to get this heat exchanger "accessory"? Yamaha already has my VIN number on file for the Warrior overheat problem.

Crash, got any pictures or part numbers?

I agree with FSBLK and SLEDHEAD. Learn your suspension, and set it up for the way you ride. There is a massive amount of info on this site. Do a little exploring and find what works for you. I rode Cats for 10 years, and yes, it's a pretty decent skid, out of the box (especially the ETT)...

VT, if you refer to your 2003 TOG, the front exchanger is regarded as a secondary radiator circuit. The primary circuit is the running board exchangers, and the crossover tube at the back of the sled. As I said in a previous post, all parts are the same as 2003, at least as far as Yamaha's...

BTW, if you're talking Lake Superior area, you're at about 1500 feet above sea level. Check the topo maps. Not that it will make much difference, but, you're not at "sea level".

Spoke with an Amsoil rep at the Novi, Mi show in November. He said wait 3000 miles, then switch to synthetic oil. Break In (Wear In) needs to be complete before switching. Make sure the rings are seated (should be the first 300 miles). No more wear or polishing will occur after you switch...

RX1, I've heard that suggestion, but, I don't think that's the answer (regarding the PAM). Yamaha has a problem, and, they need to fix it. If this sled overheats at -10 degrees, what is it going to do at +50, that we rode last year on March 16th, in the UP? (no overheat problems with my '03...

Okay, an update to my previous post. Cracked the purge bolt in the crossover pipe (never totally unthreaded it)-green within 5 seconds, so, there might have been a bit of air bubble, not too sure. One thing I find very interesting is that the crossover is basically in the same place as the...

Same problem with my Warrior. In Grand Marais, MI this past week, temp's were below 0 (-8 to -17), overheats with 1-2 mile runs between 70-90 MPH on freshly groomed trails (lots of powder flying). One thing I've noticed, an extremely large block of ice under the skid, below the muffler. Now...

Angle, The predrilled tracks are 144 down the center, no stud holes outside the rails. Also, if you go this route, I'd avoid putting studs in the center two holes, unless you want to run the track tight. Might keep you from ripping the heat shield up when the track balloons. Also, you need...

Have them check the bearings on both the PTO side, and in the chaincase. I changed them both, as they were a bit sloppy after 1500 miles. They'll have it apart already, so, make sure they check them-if in doubt, change 'em. It's alot easier, and cheaper to do it now, rather than 90 miles from...

Warm the motor up, check and adjust the carb sync. Make sure the pilots are adjusted correctly, per the service manual. Set the idle to about 1600, instead of 1350 rpm. Problem should be gone.

Check all of your linkage, especially the nylock nuts on the ball joints. I found one that was not tight. Had just enough slop in it to cause the exact same problem. Tightened it up, checked the adjustments, and the problem has been gone for 1200 miles.

Vmax is right. I put these shims on my RX1 last year-what a difference. Doesn't matter what kind of ski you have-if you have pressure on the front side of the spindle, it WILL dart. Simmons skis will dart too-as more people start to use them on the trails, other Simmons users will see...

Just an FYI, regarding the RipSaw: Camoplast does offer a predrilled track for 144 studs in the RipSaw. The part number is 9955. This is the shorty (121") version. There is no 136 version for this year. Per Camoplast, it will be offered next year. Also, the 9837 track can be obtained...