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here are the pics, only 8 scratch marks ... but you only need more for drag racing, this works amazing for high speed and none go where wheels ride or drivers.... no noise and no resistance.... you can turn track by hand as if it had no studs. i usually never stud out side... but what i did...
Im Guessing here that they are saying, their BMS is only for low voltage drain.... most other companies BMS is for low temp charging and will not allow it.. this then blows the voltage regulator on the sled.... found out the hard way!!! NOCO.... great battery in ATV and SEADOO.... not anything...
sorry just got to get to sled to take pic.s, i tried the JT wheels before i changed my track and pattern and they turned into stop signs... junk in my opinion cant use hard plastic over studs., 400.00 wasted...,, the rubber kimpex or skidoo were awesome.... not fancy but lasted, also the...
soo ive had this issue for years... this year i also put the ski doo wheels in, but i studded mine with no studs going under any idler wheel or even a drive cog.... now you wont get alot of scratch marks...only 8... but OMG what a FN diff in track noise!!! and NO rolling resistance..... you can...
because of the mounting of the front control arm.... all the dwn wrd force is right where those wheels are, your slides would wear faster if they are removed.... but thats up to you
sooo in the adapt sec and boss is ron switching to a tortional spring?? from a compression that is stock in both. i dont know if adapt is factory compression or tortional.
you cannot float A team BOSS, proper alignment on a BOSS is 1.500 from outter flat surface of sec to hub of primary at the stationary inner sheave with old conventional "Z" tool. used to be 1.530 but just read on service manual for t-cat 1.500
For stage 6 ... we did commetic multi layer gasket, cam shafts, hd timing chain and manual tensioner, head studs, springs and anti flip cups, also did 3 angle valve job. and cleaned port match. these were min requiremnets you should do for stage 6 and/or big or mod turbo. since there was VERY...
the way im seeing your data log shows that the closed loop is adding a 21% more fuel than what the hard tune in the ecu is programed at compared to what your adjustable programmer is calling for. i would have your tuner readajust your map tune closer to what it should be soo that your GAP auto...
that shows you pump is turning on but you still dont know pressure from pump, do you have the adjustable regulator off the end of rail? is your return back to slipper? i also had issues with the crows feet plugged and not allowing fuel to be picked up.
STM SECONDARY sooo as has been reported, STM angles are diff than Dalton as advertised, but using a dalton helix on an STM sec clutch also creates an issue as the roller cover bottoms out on base of dalton helix limiting the secondary from opening up all the way and belt will not go to bottom...
i usually do a 3x3 or 4x2 pattern, using double backers 4x2, but stud stars 3x3 only dwn center.... 15 scratch lines/5patterns x3 pattern on 129, on 137 i only get 12 scratch lines dwn center with 4 patterns x3 if you do outer belt you can add 4 more scratch lines on either.
Can you have a picture taken with cover off showing where crack is generating from... it looks like the cover may not have been seated or torqued on square... or some debris under cover when putting back on.... just a thought..would be nice to see where crack generates from.
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