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She laid over....

I sure am glad I tested a few miles from the house. Could you imagine this have been in 0° temps and having to try to do this outside. Sorry guys, my bad...
View attachment 175039
I just put a TD fuel pump in a buddies sled and it had an oitiker clamp on both ends of the supplied flexible hose.
 

Was the fuel line off when you opened it up?
No, it was still attached. Basically it was hanging off the last Barb.
I reinstalled it, hit it with a dose of heat (to further shrink) and now I will add clamps.
Thoughts ?
Wondering if you heated the plastic to much when installing ?
Jon, my fear is I did not heat it up enough. When I installed it I couldn't get it soft enough to go all the way past the top Barb.
That flexible plastic is very delicate.
Just spitballing, did you add a fuel filter?
And who is this Doc Harley, what did he do with JT lol
I haven't added the extra filter yet. However I do understand the advantages.
Who?!?! When running from the law, it's best to clean up all traces that somebody or something existed. Lol.
Always on the move....
 
I was able to reattach and then reheat the area in hopes that it would bind better. But I'm going to the store to get clamps.
SNUG on the clamps.. Not torqued to shi^%.. Its plastic not rubber so you cant go crazy with the clamps.. Goes without saying, just saying.. ;)
 
Myself I wouldn't be using that plastic hose even with clamps, but thats just me. I like the submersible rubber hose with a clamp that is going to hold the rubber decent.

I'm not sure putting a clamp on that plastic is going to seal it up. Heating that plastic and expecting it hold the pressure IMO is a hit and miss. If it come off on a trail ride there you are broke down on the edge of the trail. I've not ever had a submersible rubber hose fail or come off, just my opinion.
 
Knapp, do these get gapped?
IMG_20240108_095336510_copy_1536x2048.jpg
 
Yes they do, td recommends. .020
 
Knapp, do these get gapped?
View attachment 175040

I run them at the factory gap of .024"-.025". I've had no misfires with them in many years at that gap. I've not seen a need for less gap that with less than 320-330 or so HP. In the old days with some sleds with weak ignitions it was needed, but I haven't seen misfires on the 998 yet, not sure why TD would recommend it myself for trail use tunes.

If you desire to gap them tighter approach with caution, if you gap them less than desired, you don't want to then open the gap up by prying against the center electrode and cracking the insulator. NEVER PRY AGAINST THE CENTER ELECTRODE!!!!!
 
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If you do gap them to .020, tap them on something hard like steel and check and repeat. I gapped mine this year, but never had a misfire either at stock gap.

Glad to hear your sled is an easy fix!
 
Left factory gap at .024 for this low boost application. For reasons Knapp explained. I didn't install the plastic flex line to the pump lid correctly, my bad. I'm a little wiser today. no harm, no fowl.
Sleds back in business....
Zero contact with 1.63" studs and heat exchangers.
Very thankful to the group of guys whom gave any and all suggestions.
Now....snows coming in as we speak, let's go tear some $*** up!!
BTW.... My 35-year untarnished reputation still stands... I always make it back. Haha!!
Peace.....
 
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Left factory gap at .024 for this low boost application. For reasons Knapp explained. I didn't install the plastic flex line to the pump lid correctly, my bad. I'm a little wiser today. no harm, no fowl.
Sleds back in business....
Zero contact with 1.63" studs and heat exchangers.
Very thankful to the group of guys whom gave any and all suggestions.
Now....snows coming in as we speak, let's go tear some $*** up!!
BTW.... My 35-year unturned reputation still stands... I always make it back. Haha!!
Peace.....
That's why this forum is so great! Glad your back up and running!
 
if you dont mind taking apart again... get rid of that plastic hose and put submersible fuel injection rubber hose on with clamps.
 


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