bluecanuck
Extreme
Ever heard of anyone ripping that side apart and replacing that gear? Is there a lot more to it than taking the primary clutch off an the side panel? Cost a ton? Or is it just most deal with the noise. I was going to go a little higher RPM but it started to get into the other circuits on the one or more of the carbs. Once I get them sync'd I will get it up there a bit more.
Shame on Yamaha for putting something out there they clearly knew would drive people nuts.
Shame on Yamaha for putting something out there they clearly knew would drive people nuts.
RedRocket
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Personally, I don't think the noise is from the gear reduction system. With the engine off, you can clearly feel the play in between the rollers and weights on the primary clutch. The weights do not sit firmly on the rollers so when it is at idle or lower, the weights are literally hitting the rollers back and forth causing that noise. Raising the idle just increases the centrifugal force which forces the weights onto the rollers. I heard there is a clutch shim kit to solve this which I may try before the season starts.
I know this is where the noise is coming from on mine because I took the primary clutch off and started it (not revving above 1800rpms) and the noise was completely gone, even has low as 1000 rpms.
I know this is where the noise is coming from on mine because I took the primary clutch off and started it (not revving above 1800rpms) and the noise was completely gone, even has low as 1000 rpms.
bluecanuck
Extreme
Now that is the first I heard of that. Most people I have seen posting the noise claiming it is the clutch get told it is the gear immediately. I am going to try removing mine while it is all apart and see if it is the same result. What you state makes more sense as centrifugal weight on these parts and rpm seems to compute better than a gear that should have force on it at any speed and only clunk when the forward motion is faster or slower than the motor like going down hill. If you find a kit and try it let me know. I will let you know if I get the same result when I remove my primary.
I get not to rev it too high with no load but can there be damage done by doing this since the clutch is almost like a flywheel in a car and helps to balance the crank?
I get not to rev it too high with no load but can there be damage done by doing this since the clutch is almost like a flywheel in a car and helps to balance the crank?
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
In '05, Yamaha changed the gears to decrease tolerance between them. That quieted them down significantly.
With the Clutch off, there is no weight on the output shaft. So the amplitude of the noise made while meshing is changed (i.e. lowered cause there is no wieght being thrown around). What we are doing with the carb syncing is to make the engine run smoothly so that the weight of the clutch does not go back and forth, causing the gears to rattle.
There is also a potential for clutch rattle. If you take the Primary Clutch apart, there are sliders between the spider and the sheave's towers. After a couple thousand miles, the sliders wear enough to allow the spider to rattle against the slider and the slider against the tower. The kit you mentioned that addresses this rattle was for the 3-holers, which do not run as smooth as the RX-1. The clutch rattle was especially noticeable in the 3-holers and could not be tuned out. However, the O-rings would work on the RX-1 clutch. Essentially they put some O-Rings behind the sliders to take up some of the gap.
I have found though, if you sync the carbs correctly and keep the idle about 1600, there is no rattle from either source.[/u]
With the Clutch off, there is no weight on the output shaft. So the amplitude of the noise made while meshing is changed (i.e. lowered cause there is no wieght being thrown around). What we are doing with the carb syncing is to make the engine run smoothly so that the weight of the clutch does not go back and forth, causing the gears to rattle.
There is also a potential for clutch rattle. If you take the Primary Clutch apart, there are sliders between the spider and the sheave's towers. After a couple thousand miles, the sliders wear enough to allow the spider to rattle against the slider and the slider against the tower. The kit you mentioned that addresses this rattle was for the 3-holers, which do not run as smooth as the RX-1. The clutch rattle was especially noticeable in the 3-holers and could not be tuned out. However, the O-rings would work on the RX-1 clutch. Essentially they put some O-Rings behind the sliders to take up some of the gap.
I have found though, if you sync the carbs correctly and keep the idle about 1600, there is no rattle from either source.[/u]
