04 rx chain case questions---need advice

[dexter]

I brought my sled in to my local dealer to put a new track on and change all my bearings. They told me that my chain is junk (no adjustment left), the forks on the reverse handle in the chain case where wearing a flat spot, and my c case gasket was bad. They also said that my top gear was a 22. After thinking bout it I checked things out and if I am not mistaken stock was 23 teeth. I am the second owner of the sled. This makes me think that my chain will have more adjustement if I go back to a 23 tooth and save some money by not buying a chain. My question is this ... how many miles have you guys seen on a chain? I have 8700 miles. Also, where do you guys advise I look for another if I decide to replace it. thoughts bout the reverse fork pins? thanks!!!

 

[Yummy]

I would say to replace it. Don't forget, if it brakes, it will probably cost you more that the chain itself. I replace mine every 8k miles.

 

[kinger]

Stock gear on the RX was 24T, you need a different chain to go to a 22T so that is your adjustment problem.

The flat spot is something I would like to see, there is no wear there except when your shifting and its sprayed with lube all the time I cant believe the forks would wear.

For the chain I dont know how long they are supposed to last, I would get a used one from a low mileage part out on these forums if I HAD to.

If you are handy at all I would get it back and do these repairs yourself and post some pictures of problems you have and we can help you get it fixed.

 

[dexter]

thanks for the quick replies guys...

where did you see 24T? I have a warrior does that matter? I went on to the yami fiche and saw 38 for bottom and 23 top. I wonder how much I am missing by running this 22 tooth. torque? anyhow I guess with this kind of mileage I should replace it. I have gone as far as changing the fluids in the case before. Is taking the gears off that big of a deal? Special sockets?

 

[Len Todd]

Stock gear on the RX was 24T, you need a different chain to go to a 22T so that is your adjustment problem.

24 is correct. Different chain is most-likely correct. If you are out of adjustment you need a new chain whatever you do. I would not recommend putting an old chain on a new gear.

If you buy a used chain, how would one know how many miles were on it or what conditions it was exposed to?

Question really is: Do you think you want more top-end or are you more interested in the acceleration that the 22 is giving you.

 

[dexter]

good thoughts len... I like my sled the way it runs.. I can get 120ish (123mph fastest ever) out of the dream meter on a perfect day and see 100-105 easily, but it makes me wonder about the what am I missing.....So how much would I gain at the bottom or the top?

 

[kinger]

Doh your right the warrior has 23T gear vs the shorties have the 24. Eitherway looks like you need a chain unless you really trust the one you have. I agree if it does blow it will take out a lot more in parts, gears, cases, etc. It would be a mess, I just never thought they would give way on a stock sled when turbos/Sc's are running around and I haven't heard of a issue.

For every tooth you drop, you will lose around 5pmh in theoritical top end. Theoretical is the best word I can think of because if your getting 120's I would be very happy with that. I bet she really stretches the arms from 40-90mph uh!

Yes you need a special socket set that I got from MPI for removing the top gear nut. Good luck have fun!

 

[Len Todd]

I missed that we had a warrior. Actually, the first post that mentioned there was a warrior came in at the same time I was developing my post. So, ...

23 is stock for the warrior. That is the important part. Personally, I would keep it with the 22, if you like how it works.

By the way guys, ...

We all need to put our sled's Year and Model in our signatures. It was not clear to me that we were talking about a warrior. But, I should not have assumed that we didn't have one either, either. But, if we all get our sled model and year in the signature, it makes things a lot easier. Some of us are using a crackberry to respond to these. Scrolling back through all the posts is a pain on the crackberries. If you have the year and model in the signature, it is right there on every post. If you need help figuring out how to do that and you are shy, please feel free to drop me a PM.

 

[dexter]

just got back from the dealer and sled appears to have been handled well. tech says the pins or fingers on the reverse have flat spots from not sitting in the right groove. Should I be concerned? I dont see how this is a big deal. Secondly, he says the gasket is getting dry. Is this something that I should let go until I see seepage? Lastly, what about my chain... it is a 70 link right now, but do they make a chain for a 22/38 set up? Is it worth going back to 23 and getting a new 70 link.. what are your thoughts. thanks

 

[Len Todd]

I would get a new gasket. They do not seep very long and then you have ruined most of the gears, chain, bearings and seals. You will not believe how hot they get when they have no oil. Believe me, I been there done that. Get the new gasket.

I would stick with the gear you have/like, and get a matching chain. Its hard to find use for 5 more mph after you are already doing 100+.

 

[dexter]

I think I agree with your thoughts len... but one question remains- can I buy a chain for my set up or will I have to make one?

 

[woodchk454]

I am currenty running and have been for the last 4-5 seasons a 22 (aluminum) and stock (38) on my 03. You need a 68 link chain (correct me if Im wrong). Got mine from Pat Hauck (though it seems not many people care for him here). When I first got my sled (with a grass racing setup from pat) I tried running a few different gearsets with my combo of gears and I just dont think the sled has enough power to really take advantage of the stock gearing. My trail rpms are a little high so fuel mileage takes a bit of a hit but all in all I wouldnt go back. btw dexter I see the same speeds as you most of the time but never with the stock gearing.

good luck

 

[LazyBastard]

The flat spots on the forks are NORMAL - there can be a little bit of friction in there and they will wear flat VERY GRADUALLY. Only replace if they look like they're about to break through -- I've never seen or heard of them going that far though.

 

[Rockmeister]

Changed my top gear and bought an aftermarket 68 chain for $40.

However, the money saved was burnt up in a lost trip due to the chain breaking!
Fortunately, it did NOT take out my chaincase.
Was VERY lucky!

Would suggest either changing back to the factory top sprocket. (Cheapest, but will slow down your sled.)
Or buying the Yamaha 68 chain. It is NOT cheap, about $100, but tough.

Hope this helps.

 

[LazyBastard]

I'm sure it depends on where you get your aftermarket chain from. I paid about $100 for my aftermarket 72L chain (mainly because Yam only had chains up to 70L), and its definitely good. My original 70L chain broke and took out both front and back of the case.