dexter
TY 4 Stroke Master
thanks for all the input guys.. in the daylight I can now see that I have alteast 2-4 full turns left in my adjustment screw. I think they were looking to make some $$. they claim I am the highest mileage sled they have seen. For now I think I will run it and keep a close eye on things.

03RX1-ER-LE
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They did not do the math on the gearing and assumed the chain was stretched or excessively worn, not realizing the smaller gear is the root cause of the lack of adjustment. That happens a lot, my 35 years as a auto technician I have seen many times where other techs do not identify the root cause of the concern. Here the root cause of thre concern was the modification of the top gear (smaller then stock) not the chain.





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dexter said:thanks for all the input guys.. in the daylight I can now see that I have alteast 2-4 full turns left in my adjustment screw. I think they were looking to make some $$. they claim I am the highest mileage sled they have seen. For now I think I will run it and keep a close eye on things.
That's what I did when my aftermarket one died.
Used the 70 chain for the rest of the year.
LB is probably right, just don't know which aftermarket one would be good, so I purchased the Yamaha part.
I'm with 03RX, they probably didn't really look at it and just assumed the chain was stretched like crazy.
I'd bet the 70 chain is fine.

vx700xtc
Expert
On the topic of how long a chain will last:
I have an 03 RX1 with 14000+ miles on original chain.
I have an 03 RX1 with 14000+ miles on original chain.
dexter
TY 4 Stroke Master
after starting this post and speaking with a lot of people it seems if they are adjusted correctly and are kept bathed in the oil no one knows... my brother in law has 18,000 on his vmax 4 chain.
LazyBastard
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Sometimes if they're adjusted correctly and kept properly oiled, they'll blow at 6-10 thousand. I wouldn't wait for it to blow because its a lot more expensive when it does. Think of it like this; if you chain blows, it'll *probably* cost you $1000. There are cases where nothing else is hurt, but most of the time it will destroy everything. Replacing it costs $100, so if you replace it every year, then its 10 years before you reach the cost of blowing the chaincase. If you replace it every 2 or 3 years, then you never have to worry about blowing the chain and it still costs you less because more likely than not, you'll have to be replacing everything in less than 10 years.

Rockmeister
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Agreed LB.
I was VERY fortunate, it didn't jam and lock-up until I was almost stopped.
Broke NOTHING but the chain!
VERY RARE!!!
FYI, the bearings were fine, tension was fine, only had about 800 miles on the chain, was just a cheap chain...
dexter, here is more info with pics for your exact set-up.
Scroll down towards the bottom, it covers using the 70 chain.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=64698
Hope this helps!
I was VERY fortunate, it didn't jam and lock-up until I was almost stopped.
Broke NOTHING but the chain!
VERY RARE!!!
FYI, the bearings were fine, tension was fine, only had about 800 miles on the chain, was just a cheap chain...
dexter, here is more info with pics for your exact set-up.
Scroll down towards the bottom, it covers using the 70 chain.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=64698
Hope this helps!

Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
Or, .. you can go in and replace the chain, seals, and bearings and reuse the old gasket that eventually cracks and then , ... you fry the whole mess. Sometimes performing preventative maintenance (and taking short cuts) causes problems that you initially intended to preclude. I have this going on right now. Fortunately, I am able to get out of it for ~$250. The chain got so hot, it won't bend. By the way, I felt the vibration and stopped to take a look before it broke.
Anyway, this gave me a chance to see how Washer # 34 really is installed. The Small OD goes to the center of the sled against the Drive Shaft Bearing. The larger OD goes up against the BEARING in the GEAR. This keeps the gear from migrating inward on its bearing toward the drive shaft bearing. Having it in backward explains how one of our members was having trouble turning the drive shaft, when Washer #34 was in backward.
Guess you guys know what I will be putting back together tomorrow :-(
Anyway, this gave me a chance to see how Washer # 34 really is installed. The Small OD goes to the center of the sled against the Drive Shaft Bearing. The larger OD goes up against the BEARING in the GEAR. This keeps the gear from migrating inward on its bearing toward the drive shaft bearing. Having it in backward explains how one of our members was having trouble turning the drive shaft, when Washer #34 was in backward.
Guess you guys know what I will be putting back together tomorrow :-(
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