2500 miles on mine and the upper plastic bushings were nothing but plastic rings. The portion that was actually the "bushing" was gone completely. The shafts were VERY egg shaped and I wonder how the new 06 ones will fit into the suspension. It looks ok but the 06 bushings and shafts were out of stock at my dealer. I don't think the factory had much grease in this thing at all.
I want to add zerks. Anyone do this over the summer???
Rex mentioned the material was thin. I was just going to drill, tap and thread them in. Did anyone do this and how did it go???
Also the upper wheels on the suspension seem to be pressed on the shaft. They feel ok but I wanted to take it apart to get the metal out after driling. Anyone take these off and able to get them back on without a lot of BS?
Thanks for any pointers.
I want to add zerks. Anyone do this over the summer???
Rex mentioned the material was thin. I was just going to drill, tap and thread them in. Did anyone do this and how did it go???
Also the upper wheels on the suspension seem to be pressed on the shaft. They feel ok but I wanted to take it apart to get the metal out after driling. Anyone take these off and able to get them back on without a lot of BS?
Thanks for any pointers.
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
I find the best way to take those bearings off without damaging the wheel is to first pop the c-clip and pull the wheel - leaving the bearing on the shaft.
Then use a puller to pull off the bearing. If your not changing the bearings you only need to take off one side.
If the bearing didn't come of very easily I would install a new 6205 bearing. They can be damaged by applying a side load to the outer race to pull off a press fit inner race (side load goes through the bearing). Quality NTN or SKF 6205s are only a few $ anyway.
To install, I install the bearing in the wheel first (make sure you clean out the c-clip groove with a very small screwdriver so the clip goes in properly), then I use a pair of deep sockets (that will push on the inner race only) to "press" the wheel/bearing on. Easiest to put one side down (socket on) and hit the other side socket hit lightly with a small sledge hammer.
For the grease fittings the proper way would be to mark where you want the zerks, remove the suspension arms, drill holes on the marks and get a welding shop to weld nuts over each hole. Then install the zerks into the nuts. Use a little touch up paint on the welds and nuts. It shouldn't cost much (you might also try to get an updated front pivot arm which already has grease fittings).
The one pair of fittings that will be difficult to install are on the front pivot arm to slide rail brackets. The easiest route would be to pick up a pair of 06 brackets and bolt them on (don't know what they cost). Alternatively you could drill the hole and grind down a custom nut that just fits between the flanges and have that welded in.
If you simply drill and tap, the material is thick enough to handle the zerk. The problem is the zerks will hit the shafts. One option that I don't recommend is to turn a groove in the shafts right where the zerk goes, install the shafts and then screw in the zerk.
Then use a puller to pull off the bearing. If your not changing the bearings you only need to take off one side.
If the bearing didn't come of very easily I would install a new 6205 bearing. They can be damaged by applying a side load to the outer race to pull off a press fit inner race (side load goes through the bearing). Quality NTN or SKF 6205s are only a few $ anyway.
To install, I install the bearing in the wheel first (make sure you clean out the c-clip groove with a very small screwdriver so the clip goes in properly), then I use a pair of deep sockets (that will push on the inner race only) to "press" the wheel/bearing on. Easiest to put one side down (socket on) and hit the other side socket hit lightly with a small sledge hammer.
For the grease fittings the proper way would be to mark where you want the zerks, remove the suspension arms, drill holes on the marks and get a welding shop to weld nuts over each hole. Then install the zerks into the nuts. Use a little touch up paint on the welds and nuts. It shouldn't cost much (you might also try to get an updated front pivot arm which already has grease fittings).
The one pair of fittings that will be difficult to install are on the front pivot arm to slide rail brackets. The easiest route would be to pick up a pair of 06 brackets and bolt them on (don't know what they cost). Alternatively you could drill the hole and grind down a custom nut that just fits between the flanges and have that welded in.
If you simply drill and tap, the material is thick enough to handle the zerk. The problem is the zerks will hit the shafts. One option that I don't recommend is to turn a groove in the shafts right where the zerk goes, install the shafts and then screw in the zerk.
Thanks Rex,
I just might look into the new arm. I see what you mean now about how the zerks would be hitting the shafts when you thread them in. At first I could not get why you were saying to weld the nuts on but I get it now.
Well, if I get the new W arm that will only take care of the front of the suspension right? I will still have to install them for the back. I have friend who is a welder so maybe as long as I have this thing out I will just go ahead and do them. Then again I always pull my suspension down every year anyhow and it really was a pretty easy skid to go thru all in all.
I just like the idea of slapping fresh grease in it before each trip. A good season can be a 3 to 5 thousand mile season. That's a little longer than I like to go without fresh grease.
I just might look into the new arm. I see what you mean now about how the zerks would be hitting the shafts when you thread them in. At first I could not get why you were saying to weld the nuts on but I get it now.
Well, if I get the new W arm that will only take care of the front of the suspension right? I will still have to install them for the back. I have friend who is a welder so maybe as long as I have this thing out I will just go ahead and do them. Then again I always pull my suspension down every year anyhow and it really was a pretty easy skid to go thru all in all.
I just like the idea of slapping fresh grease in it before each trip. A good season can be a 3 to 5 thousand mile season. That's a little longer than I like to go without fresh grease.
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
Unfortunately the new arm only has the two upper bushings covered. The lower bushing grease fittings go in the slide rail brackets (this is the most difficult pair of fittings to add).
If you buy 06 brackets as well as get an 06 front pivot arm you will have the front covered.
I also find it is difficult to really fill the bushings with grease without fittings. I believe you get better grease application when greasing through them.
If you buy 06 brackets as well as get an 06 front pivot arm you will have the front covered.
I also find it is difficult to really fill the bushings with grease without fittings. I believe you get better grease application when greasing through them.
I am going to have to look at the 06 suspension when I go the the dealer this week. Sounds like a PITA to add these....but I really want them. Especially in the bushings after what I just pulled out with 2000 miles on em....