bluecheese
Veteran
Has anyone had to change a bulkhead out on a vector? I need to change mine due to an accident and was wondering if anyone had any pointers on doing this and also how many different types of rivets are needed and how many to order. Thanks!
Irv
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2005
- Messages
- 3,778
- Age
- 60
- Location
- ONT. Canada
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2008 40th Anniversary Vector.
1995 XLT SP (Son's)
bluecheese said:
How bad is it, just the eyelet the bolt goes through or worse?
Travis has this kit which might work but if not then try Googling your question.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=114419
Good luck
bluecheese
Veteran
It's very bad. The sled hit a tree dead center and bent/cracked both halves of the bulkhead. I have a new/used bulkhead to install, and was just looking for advice before starting the job.
Thanks!
Thanks!
3 Phase
Newbie
Did this job on my Vector this year, it is pretty involved but not difficult if you are used to doing some mechanical work.
Here is what I found: Buy the Yamaha rivets or identical replacements - they bite way harder than your typical pop rivet.
Buy a good clutch alignment & center to center gauge - bought Ulmers and it worked great. There is a good write up in the TY tech pages on lining these up. Also need a clutch puller, did the fill the hole with grease trick and clutch came off as easy as could be.
Used several tapered punches to line up the rivet holes and basically had the unit pinned prior to starting to rivet. I spent a fair amount of time positioning the bulkhead so the punches lined up easily and there was no stress or strain on the parts. If there is stress or strain look for damage beyond the bulkhead.
Used small C clamps to pull all the layers together prior to riveting them when doing the sides.
When attaching the bottom pan I put a floor jack and a piece of wood under it to get it nice and tight.
Probably more but that is what stood out to me. Best of luck!
Here is what I found: Buy the Yamaha rivets or identical replacements - they bite way harder than your typical pop rivet.
Buy a good clutch alignment & center to center gauge - bought Ulmers and it worked great. There is a good write up in the TY tech pages on lining these up. Also need a clutch puller, did the fill the hole with grease trick and clutch came off as easy as could be.
Used several tapered punches to line up the rivet holes and basically had the unit pinned prior to starting to rivet. I spent a fair amount of time positioning the bulkhead so the punches lined up easily and there was no stress or strain on the parts. If there is stress or strain look for damage beyond the bulkhead.
Used small C clamps to pull all the layers together prior to riveting them when doing the sides.
When attaching the bottom pan I put a floor jack and a piece of wood under it to get it nice and tight.
Probably more but that is what stood out to me. Best of luck!
bluecheese
Veteran
Thanks for the tips. Did you have to support the motor when disconnecting the 2 front motor mounts? Also, do you remember how many different types of rivets were needed? Or were they all the same except for the black ones that go on the outer front panels?
Handy
Expert
- Joined
- May 12, 2005
- Messages
- 374
- Location
- Anola Manitoba
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 1983 Bravo, 1988 XLV, 1991 Pazer II, 2005 Vector, 2006 Apex Super Charged, 2017 Viper STX DX 137, 2018 SR Venture DX
If you check the parts fiche it will tell you the part number and the amount of rivets for that section.
3 Phase
Newbie
bluecheese said:
Only used one type of rivet for the structural stuff, they sold me PN 90267-47195-00 RIVET, BLIND at the dealer. The dealer only had enough rivets to do the bulkhead so I just used pop rivets to put the panels back on. I did put washers under the rivet heads in case the panels have to come off again, the washer will hopefully stop the drill bit from damaging the plastic.
As far as the motor goes, I just loosened the rear bolt off and let it hang down.
Hope this helps
