05 Vector clutch, replace or rebuild?

PJVMAX

Extreme
Joined
Sep 30, 2005
Messages
68
Reaction score
0
Points
486
Location
Pinckney Mi
The fixed and sliding sheaves in my primary clutch appear grooved. The sled has ~ 8k miles. What are the pros and cons of rebuilding vs replacing? What are the recommended options? I ride primarily the trials in the UP.
 
IF you do end up replacing the primary, look at putting on a Polaris clutch. More durable and lots of good used ones out there.

There's a guy on TY who specializes in putting Poo clutches on the Yami 4S's. Do a search, or somebody here likely knows who I'm talking about.

I have just under 8000 miles on my sled and I have wear on my sliding sheave, but the fixed sheave looks good. I don't know how much wear is too much though.

Didn't mean to hijack your thread!
 
I am on my 5K miles after a groove job. I will not start the season with it since noise is coming back... and need a little re-shim. I have my spare standby for that matter.

What i end up doing (for the grooves) was to separately place the sheeves in the lathe then flat sand both surfaces (too bad for slight angle if it was). Started with coarser grain to finer until perfect. I would not recommend on a blown 300 hp application. It worked for me.

P.S.. Tendency to groove up the middle section has about vanished since the used of 8FA ramps, maybe just the little engagement (start) at the bottom of clutch still is. (and always will should you use 8DN belt)

hope this helps..
 
aVenture said:
I am on my 5K miles after a groove job. I will not start the season with it since noise is coming back... and need a little re-shim. I have my spare standby for that matter.

What i end up doing (for the grooves) was to separately place the sheeves in the lathe then flat sand both surfaces (too bad for slight angle if it was). Started with coarser grain to finer until perfect. I would not recommend on a blown 300 hp application. It worked for me.

P.S.. Tendency to groove up the middle section has about vanished since the used of 8FA ramps, maybe just the little engagement (start) at the bottom of clutch still is. (and always will should you use 8DN belt)

hope this helps..

when did they switch to 8FA ramps?
 
Groomerdriver said:
aVenture said:
I am on my 5K miles after a groove job. I will not start the season with it since noise is coming back... and need a little re-shim. I have my spare standby for that matter.

What i end up doing (for the grooves) was to separately place the sheeves in the lathe then flat sand both surfaces (too bad for slight angle if it was). Started with coarser grain to finer until perfect. I would not recommend on a blown 300 hp application. It worked for me.

P.S.. Tendency to groove up the middle section has about vanished since the used of 8FA ramps, maybe just the little engagement (start) at the bottom of clutch still is. (and always will should you use 8DN belt)

hope this helps..

when did they switch to 8FA ramps?

anybody?
 
when did they switch to 8FA ramps?

Never..... i did on my own. being wider, the 8FA is not grooving or at least i have not noticed so far. I also was pretty much loaded with rivets. Did you noticed this 3 holer gets in the over rev after 2 to 3 K miles and must be loaded a bit ? I just run a small outer alum with the 8FA. Since ramp profile is for 4 cycle torque like. work all fine with me. Added is that tons of it available for cheap out there.... dudes play after market clutch kits on their RX-1.
 
As long as your sheaves aren't damaged you can buy all the parts to rebuild both clutches for less than $200. I had about 12000 miles on my last clutch with no parts replaced although I was going to replace wear items if I was to keep it. I opted to buy a new Vector LTX GT. The sled before that had about 15000 miles with just the ramps replaced on the secondary.
 
Homer2002 said:
As long as your sheaves aren't damaged you can buy all the parts to rebuild both clutches for less than $200. I had about 12000 miles on my last clutch with no parts replaced although I was going to replace wear items if I was to keep it. I opted to buy a new Vector LTX GT. The sled before that had about 15000 miles with just the ramps replaced on the secondary.

PLEASE list the parts here that you can get for <$200 that will rebuild both clutches.
 
SKU: 90501-582L1-00
SPRING, COMPRESSION (Y-SL-Y) for primary $14.98
SKU: 90384-41242-00
BUSH, BIMETAL FORMED for primary $20.85

SKU: 90380-28237-00
BUSH, SOLID for primary $10.37

SKU: 8BW-17653-00-00
SLIDER for primary $5.08 x6 =$30.48
SKU: 8AV-17688-10-00
SHOE, RAMP for secondary $11.16 x3=$33.48
SKU: 90384-38243-00
BUSH, BIMETAL FORMED for secondary $20.77x2 =$41.54
SKU: 90508-60012-00
SPRING, TORSION (PINK) for secondary $16.51
SKU: 8FA-W176H-10-00
All these parts add up to $168.21. All I have replaced is the above parts minus the springs which were in spec, so the most i have spent is approx $140. I have never had sheave damage. If you have major damage or wear to the bushings and weights of the primary you can buy a complete kit shown below for $183.30. So with the secondary parts total of $91.53 you would total $274.83. But as I stated before I have replaced all parts required for my last 2 yamahas for approx $140 and that was with 12000 miles on 1 machine and 15000 miles on the other. I also forgot to mention that I had no performance issues with either machine. I was just going over everything with a fine tooth comb at the beginning of the season. The first sled has over 20000 miles on it now as I sold it to a friend who hasn't touched the clutches. I keep my sled and clutches clean clean so that may have helped my clutches last. I also get 5000 plus miles per belt. I usually put the washers on the back of the secondary to keep the belt at the top of the sheaves and the eventually replace the belt out of fear of a problem on the trail after 2 or 3 years. I don't want to blow a belt while doing 100 mph.

CLUTCH TUNE-UP KIT AP For Primary $183.30
 


Back
Top