06 Attack Chaincase issues and questions! HELP HELP!

[RacinJason15]

I have an 06 attack i just put DOO extroverts and all new bearings in the chaincase upper, lower, cover and pto side bearing and greased the upper clutch bearing! sled has 4800 miles bearings and seals were toast so while i was in there i put a new chain in also! I then rode it 150 miles and pulled dipstick and there was tons of metal! what could i have done wrong? lock tighted the lower and torqued the upper nothing loose and all looks good! upper bearing on cover feels not great!! what to do?? I did notice that the lower bearing is half sealed and the other open. when i pulled the old the seal out i noticed it was facing the cover............. i installed the bearing the same way...... could that be the problem............ any help would be apreciated!! thanks guys J

 

[WinderFab]

Hey RasinJason15
I guess to check the upper bearing you took off the cover?

Can you see the damage since the cover is out?

When I did mine had to take anything a part again, found a washer in the old oil container, feel out when I pulled the cover off,

 

[RacinJason15]

i don't see any damage but the bearing which only has 150 miles on it feels rough..... i am going to replace it for sure. Is it worth pulling it all back down again?? i would really like to know if that lower bearing goes seal side toward the engine or seal side twards the chaincase cover......... thanks Fabio ohh and found no extra parts......

 

[WinderFab]

So where did the metal come from?

When I did my bearing the lower bearing had the seal facing the oil side, and the other side had no seal..

It would only make sence the other way around, so I did reverse the seal side on my new bearing, be riding so far with no problems..

And I know yahama installed it that way, had the sled since
new..

Could of been a mistake at the factory, I can't see the lower bearing sealed from the chaincase oil doesn't make sence...

 

[RacinJason15]

i guess ill pull it down and check both bearings behind the gears and flip the bearing seal to the other side for oiling......... if there bad ill be replacing them....... seems like such a money pit!!! have you had any problems with the rail cracking on the rear arm of the suspension? mine just broke too... crappy way to start the season.......... Thanks Fabio.............. i didnt make any sense either to have the seal that way but i thought well it came out that way ill put it back together that way.... ill put new bearings in and try it the other way........ MONEY PIT MONEY PIT..........................................

 

[Crewchief47]

The correct way is to mount the bearing with the seal towards the oil. Enough oil wicks through the seal to lube the bearing and the seal serves to keep all the metal out of the bearing.

The metal could be from using a new chain on old gears. Did you tighten up the chaincase stuff before tightening the Jackshaft (PTO side) and speedo bearings? Tightening the PTO side bearings first can side load at least one bearing on the shaft after you tighten the chaincase up.

 

[RacinJason15]

CrewChief so i should tighten the case first then the upper nut on the chaincase and then the lower driveshaft/ speedo bearing then the lower bold on chaincase side?? i dont remember in what order i did it in.............. WHAT WOULD YOU DO IN MY SITUATION.... I DON'T WANT TO KEEP PUTTING BEARINGS IN ... LOL I JUST WANT TO SHOOT IT

 

[WinderFab]

Thanks crewchief47

Make sence about the seal, never seen one reversed like that

Im going to leave it that way now.. Shouldn't do anything..

The bearing shouldn't go at 150 something is wrong there (don't take it the wrong way, I did mine a month ago they were original with just under 10k
And still were good...

 

[Crewchief47]

1) Remove speedo bearing to make sure it still feels good.
2) Take the gears off (since you're already there) and roll the jackshaft to see if those bearing feel OK.
3) Loosen the PTO jackshaft bearing nut and tapered sleeve. you'll have to use something long enough to pop the taper out of the bearing without beating the poop out of the bearing.
4) replace any suspect bearings.
5) re-assemble. leave the PTO jackshaft bearing nut loose enough that the shaft will slide through it still. Same with the speedo bearing. tighten the chaincase up. Snug the chain tension but don't set it till last (finger tight, back off 1/4 turn).
6) once the cover and everything is back on, tighten the PTO side bearings. The small spanner in the Vector tool kit works well on the jackshaft nut, not sure if the Apex has that spanner.
7) Don't forget the oil. don't forget to set chain tension. Keep an ear on it.

I wouldn't be too worried about the chaincase driveshaft bearing at his point, but you aren't too far from checking it out by taking the case back off.....I know it sucks but if it were me, I'd probably pull it back down just to reassure myself.

I had to re-do the jackshaft tightening recently on a Vector track swap because I heard the jackshaft 'pop' when it slide through the PTO side bearing. I had forgotten to torque the chaincase down before I tightened the bearing.

 

[yamashaker]

The correct way is to mount the bearing with the seal towards the oil. Enough oil wicks through the seal to lube the bearing and the seal serves to keep all the metal out of the bearing.

The metal could be from using a new chain on old gears. Did you tighten up the chaincase stuff before tightening the Jackshaft (PTO side) and speedo bearings? Tightening the PTO side bearings first can side load at least one bearing on the shaft after you tighten the chaincase up.

 

[yamashaker]

You are correct about the bottom chain case bearing seal to the gear oil side for it keeps out junk from getting in the race, The top chaincase bearing I got from Yamaha does not have seals on either side of the races. the bearing had shattered and when I took it out I did not notice a seal on the chaincase housing on the tunnel side, there must be 1 or 2 seals on bearing or chain case housing to stop junk entering the chaincase from the inside

 

[stevieu1]

You are correct about the bottom chain case bearing seal to the gear oil side for it keeps out junk from getting in the race, The top chaincase bearing I got from Yamaha does not have seals on either side of the races. the bearing had shattered and when I took it out I did not notice a seal on the chaincase housing on the tunnel side, there must be 1 or 2 seals on bearing or chain case housing to stop junk entering the chaincase from the inside

My lower chain case bearing has no seal on the oil side. Factory installed. I've had 8 different sleds in my life and none had a seal on the oil side. Do what you want but I ALWAYS make sure the seal is toward the tunnel. My Ape is an 06 and has 14,600 miles. Bearing still good.

 

[sideshowBob]

I have an 06 attack i just put DOO extroverts and all new bearings in the chaincase upper, lower, cover and pto side bearing and greased the upper clutch bearing! sled has 4800 miles bearings and seals were toast so while i was in there i put a new chain in also! I then rode it 150 miles and pulled dipstick and there was tons of metal! what could i have done wrong? lock tighted the lower and torqued the upper nothing loose and all looks good! upper bearing on cover feels not great!! what to do?? I did notice that the lower bearing is half sealed and the other open. when i pulled the old the seal out i noticed it was facing the cover............. i installed the bearing the same way...... could that be the problem............ any help would be apreciated!! thanks guys J

When you replaced the chain did you ensure it was a Hyvo chain? If you ordered the correct chain for your Attak from Yamaha it would be a Hyvo chain and not a problem but if you picked up an aftermarket chain it could be a standard silent chain...that would make metal.

 

[YammieMan]

My lower chain case bearing has no seal on the oil side. Factory installed. I've had 8 different sleds in my life and none had a seal on the oil side. Do what you want but I ALWAYS make sure the seal is toward the tunnel. My Ape is an 06 and has 14,600 miles. Bearing still good.

You know what the torque spec is on that top jackshaft nut(chaincase side).and the lower one that has the reverse gear on it? I have an 06 apex and just replaced all those bearing as well. Thanks for help