Motorhead
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My 06 Attak with a FPP rear mount turbo and a M20 Air suspension needs a new track in the very near future. So while I am at it I also want to repair the track ratcheting problem at the same time. I have done quite a bit of on site research concerning, and still not quite sure if in fact this can be done while keeping this M20 air ride. This style suspension does offer a comfy ride but that does not happen without some problems for extrovert & fully clipped track conversion from what I have read.
My initial repair thought was, a fully clipped track and heavy duty shaft with new extrovert drivers. Since then my research suggests that I will have to machine the extrovert down to a point where they will not hit on the suspension front shaft. I have not measured the distance between the original drivers and the shaft but it looks like about 1/2 - 3/4".
I have also read that moving the suspension back to allow for full extrovert conversion would be the way to go. Can this be done and still allow for 136" track fitment?
I know that a fully clipped track and extroverts are the way to go, but I would appreciate some real world success on this matter prior to trying the repair.
One thing is for sure, when on stage II boost the Attak REALLY pulls hard and it will take a good set up to keep it from ratcheting !!
At this point just not sure on the set up.
Again, thanks to this site (As Usual) I know a proper fix can be had the first time around..
My initial repair thought was, a fully clipped track and heavy duty shaft with new extrovert drivers. Since then my research suggests that I will have to machine the extrovert down to a point where they will not hit on the suspension front shaft. I have not measured the distance between the original drivers and the shaft but it looks like about 1/2 - 3/4".
I have also read that moving the suspension back to allow for full extrovert conversion would be the way to go. Can this be done and still allow for 136" track fitment?
I know that a fully clipped track and extroverts are the way to go, but I would appreciate some real world success on this matter prior to trying the repair.
One thing is for sure, when on stage II boost the Attak REALLY pulls hard and it will take a good set up to keep it from ratcheting !!
At this point just not sure on the set up.
Again, thanks to this site (As Usual) I know a proper fix can be had the first time around..
Just drill a hole 1inch back in the tunnel on the top front arm. Now the front arm on the bottom you drill out the rivet that hold the inside plate and that is where arm will bolt to and put a nut and bolt in the old hole . I have this same setup in my attak right how with the HD shaft with a 9 tooth and lots of clearance .
Motorhead
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Thanks for the reply smoothride. I just found the post from northernsledder.jk who posted a pic on the alternate set up for 9 tooth extrovert. His pic shows the 2 hole location on the new M20 air. It can be ordered for the 9 tooth extrovert which moves both top and bottom holes back 1" and the bottom hole is already drilled out.
I just looked at mine and yes I see the rivet on the back plate that is 1" away. Did you have to relocate the back support plate or is there enough room for the plate to accept the bottom H arm and shaft ? I was wondering if infact FAST would recommend or have a different backing plate for that application ? I shall give them a call, but yes this is the correct fix for this, Great news !
Where did you get your HD shaft with 9 tooth drivers and did you have to do any machining on the HD shaft ? I have read where some HD shafts need machining on one end ?
I just looked at mine and yes I see the rivet on the back plate that is 1" away. Did you have to relocate the back support plate or is there enough room for the plate to accept the bottom H arm and shaft ? I was wondering if infact FAST would recommend or have a different backing plate for that application ? I shall give them a call, but yes this is the correct fix for this, Great news !
Where did you get your HD shaft with 9 tooth drivers and did you have to do any machining on the HD shaft ? I have read where some HD shafts need machining on one end ?
I got my HD shaft from almer racing and there no machining nessary. Just take it apart and in stall it. I did grind down the end of the bolt on the chain case side. I in stalled a ripsaw II track and it hooks up very good compared to the old ripsaw track.


Redbeard
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Talk to Brian at Fast to make sure, but I think you can make the changes needed for 9 tooth extro's without a hitch.Motorhead said:I was wondering if infact FAST would recommend or have a different backing plate for that application ? I shall give them a call, but yes this is the correct fix for this, Great news !
X2 I'm very impressed with the Ripsaw II. It does hook up that much better for sure!smoothride said:I in stalled a ripsaw II track and it hooks up very good compared to the old ripsaw track.
Motorhead
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Good feeling knowing that there is a correct fix while keeping the M20 air ride on my boosted sled ! Yes I shall give Brian a call to make sure. He has already helped me out with my set up and he seemed spot on !
The pic on one of your older posts really worked out for me, concerning the extrovert front shaft location. Thanks Northernsledder.jk
Did you also use your stock outside drivers with extroverts in the middle ? Seems like if I utilize an HD shaft with extroverts, the outside drivers are not used.
The pic on one of your older posts really worked out for me, concerning the extrovert front shaft location. Thanks Northernsledder.jk
Did you also use your stock outside drivers with extroverts in the middle ? Seems like if I utilize an HD shaft with extroverts, the outside drivers are not used.


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I have to give credit to several other members for making me aware of the extrovert clearance issue. Good group of people on here that helped me alot.
If you install Wahl Bros or Avid extroverts, you will not need the outside half sprockets on your shaft.
If you install Wahl Bros or Avid extroverts, you will not need the outside half sprockets on your shaft.
Motorhead
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Spoke with Brian @ FAST and there are 3 location changes on the M20 Air for extrovert upgrade. The 2 holes that we have been talking about and also the lower front shock mount shaft needs to be moved the same amount, .95". On my older model M20 Air, the extra hole for the lower front shock shaft is not there and it lands in the next long slide rail opening(Long holes in the aluminum rails for weight loss), So in my case I need to order a slide rail repair kit and that will allow for the third move. 



Redbeard
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How much are the repair kits? I wonder if you could make your own version?
I wonder about moving it back 1 inch. It changed the angle on the shock more straight up and down Making the shock stiffer. I did change my limiter strap from all the way out to pulled up one hole and the adjuster bolt all the way in.
Motorhead
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Repair kit was 89 plus shipping and it will do both sides. Yes as Brian stated "If you look at what you are moving back it only makes sense to move the front shock bottom shaft, whereas when moving the top tunnel bolt it is also moving that shock top and thus changing the shock angle".
I am sure you could duplicate, if not better the rail repair kit. I have seen your handy work northernsledder.jk in following your install of the M20 Air. Very nice work! Thanks again to both of you guys for pointing me in the correct direction.
I am sure you could duplicate, if not better the rail repair kit. I have seen your handy work northernsledder.jk in following your install of the M20 Air. Very nice work! Thanks again to both of you guys for pointing me in the correct direction.


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Motorhead said:Repair kit was 89 plus shipping and it will do both sides.
I'm glad to hear you found a solution to your problem. Would you mind posting a pic of the repair kit when you get it? Maybe even when it's installed?
Motorhead
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Sure thing, I shall post a pic of the rail repair kit once it arrives. The install pic may take a while whereas I still have to get a few more ducks in a row and some time for installation without ruining my riding time. Still have not made up my mind concerning the drive shaft size. If I stay with stock size I can also use the outside drivers with the new extroverts, but if I go with the HD shaft @ 1.25" I can only use the extrovert and not add the stock side drivers. Still researching that mod before pulling the trigger but at least I found a fully clipped ripsaw for a good price, so the shaft and drivers are all I need to order, all else is accounted for...
Motorhead
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OK, I was able to find some time once I gathered all the components needed for the extrovert conversion, and with that said I did take a few pics of the FAST ( Rail repair kit/Shock lower shaft relocation components). The kit consist of 4 plates, 2 per side and a new shorter then stock Shaft.
The shaft needs to be shorter because of the added plates on the inside of both rails. One must drill out the pilot holes on the plates that are .95" from the stock holes, and use bolts in those stock holes to secure the plates to the rails!
My upgrade project utilized new extrovert drivers and HD shaft from Ulmer, Fast rail repair kit, ebay rear heat exchanger, craigslist track and studs etc. from local shops.
Next will be SS exhaust upgrade with copper donut gaskets, and that will be after season project I hope !
The shaft needs to be shorter because of the added plates on the inside of both rails. One must drill out the pilot holes on the plates that are .95" from the stock holes, and use bolts in those stock holes to secure the plates to the rails!
My upgrade project utilized new extrovert drivers and HD shaft from Ulmer, Fast rail repair kit, ebay rear heat exchanger, craigslist track and studs etc. from local shops.
Next will be SS exhaust upgrade with copper donut gaskets, and that will be after season project I hope !
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Redbeard
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Motorhead said:OK, I was able to find some time once I gathered all the components needed for the extrovert conversion, and with that said I did take a few pics of the FAST ( Rail repair kit/Shock lower shaft relocation components). The kit consist of 4 plates, 2 per side and a new shorter then stock Shaft.
The shaft needs to be shorter because of the added plates on the inside of both rails. One must drill out the pilot holes on the plates that are .95" from the stock holes, and use bolts in those stock holes to secure the plates to the rails!
My upgrade project utilized new extrovert drivers and HD shaft from Ulmer, Fast rail repair kit, ebay rear heat exchanger, craigslist track and studs etc. from local shops.
Next will be SS exhaust upgrade with copper donut gaskets, and that will be after season project I hope !
"Good deal!" Glad to see you were able to make the upgrade without too much trouble.
Do your drivers and track windows line up ok? When I put extrovert drivers on my Vector, I didn't have them placed on the driveshaft correctly. Unfortunately, the problem wasn't discovered until after I had the track and chaincase re-assembled.

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