Track Drive Question

[sxmatt]

Has anyone switched from the stock drivers to extrovert drivers, whether oem or aftermarket? How easy was it to install them onto the drive shaft? Where did you get the fully clipped ripsaw track and how much did you pay.. I am looking to put this on my attak. Sorry for all the questions.

Matt

 

[jimmie d]

The fully clipped are Cat models that Tracks USA has really cheap now.

Jim

 

[dirkdiggler]

Do not use extrovert drivers. I've seen them take power away from the track on a track dyno.

 

[BURMAD69]

If your having a ratcheting problem the only correct fix is to open the holes and fully clip the track and add extrovert drivers, Then you can run your track loose and you wont believe the gain in speed and the reduction in hyfax wear. ( LOOSE IS FAST)

 

[LazyBastard]

Not quite. If its ratcheting, there must be a REASON, which has to be corrected. External drive sprockets are NOT a solution, they're a HACK.

Also, track must not be too loose. Loose is SLOW because the track balloons out and increases wind resistance.

The ratcheting problems are caused by two things;
1) Damaged or worn suspension parts - worn bushings, cracked W-arm, etc.
2) MALADJUSTED suspension. Incorrect tension for the transfer settings, strap settings, etc.

 

[Bodacious]

Not quite. If its ratcheting, there must be a REASON, which has to be corrected. External drive sprockets are NOT a solution, they're a HACK.

Also, track must not be too loose. Loose is SLOW because the track balloons out and increases wind resistance.

The ratcheting problems are caused by two things;
1) Damaged or worn suspension parts - worn bushings, cracked W-arm, etc.
2) MALADJUSTED suspension. Incorrect tension for the transfer settings, strap settings, etc.

If it's a HACK then why do most of the mountain shops recommend them?????

 

[LazyBastard]

Because its easier for them to sell a set than to walk the owner through diagnostics and correct the problem.

 

[n2oiroc]

how do i get my sled to handle the way i want if i have to adjust the suspension differently to stop racheting? (that doesnt happen on my polaris) and btw my sled racheted bad when new, i tightened the track and it stopped, but im afraid what is going to happen when i stud it.

 

[freezie]

mine ratchets bad too, even when it is set to the tight factory specs.I was also looking into fully clipping and going to extroverts.
This is a great topic, I am glad you asked it .Now to guage the response's

 

[Fergie]

I have to agree with LB on this one, I have an attak with wahlbros extroverts & the icebreaker track from tracks usa since new, I now have almost 1500 miles on & just replaced hyfaxes. my buddy has the same sled stock & he has not yet replaced hyfaxes & we are about dead even in a race. his sled has racheted but not often (just keep it a little tight) i don't think it will slow you down. NOTE: I did this because i'm planning on going with a turbo & still don't know if it was neccesary.. I have a stock 05 RX1 also & it has only racheted maybe twice.

 

[LazyBastard]

I run a LONG TRACK and an expertX, which has all brass bushings and a VERY RIGID front arm. I can run the track DANGLING LOOSE and it'll never ratchet.

When I was still using the stock suspension, it never ratcheted either until the front arm (W-arm) became fatigued. Soon after it started ratcheting, the cracks developed, so I made a custom extra strong W-arm and it never ratcheted again.