
74Nitro
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i would say it is pretty close to 2" below the rail
View attachment 155540
It appears the inner flange isn't attched?so i finally got the bearing off!! albeit with some struggles!!
however now i'm trying to get the new bearing on and before i do i was trying to move the axle to the center of the hole but it is hardly budging. anyone have any tips on getting that centered up? I've loosen the track as much as i could but it didn't give it much room to move.
View attachment 155538

74Nitro
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Use a ski bolt and thread it into the shaft so you have something to grab onto.
rocksolidsr
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so i finally got the the bearing and speed sensor installed and all back together!!
but now the snowmobile won't start, it did not have any trouble before!
It still shows errors 42 and 84 and now there is also a Er_1 on the odometer
It turns over but just won't start.
but now the snowmobile won't start, it did not have any trouble before!
It still shows errors 42 and 84 and now there is also a Er_1 on the odometer
It turns over but just won't start.

RobX-1
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42 is speed sensor so check sensor and its connection, 84 is T.O.R.S. to check or possibly even by-pass. As for the ER-1, it's an ECU malfunction; No signals are received from the ECU.

74Nitro
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Is it a brand new sensor?
rocksolidsr
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yes new sensor


Have you checked the dreaded ground blocks? They are known to cause electrical issues.
https://ty4stroke.com/threads/apex-wont-crank-and-no-fuel-pump.83994/
https://ty4stroke.com/threads/apex-wont-crank-and-no-fuel-pump.83994/
rocksolidsr
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so i check the ground blocks, i only found 2, they look ok but i fiddled with them and then tried the starting it and it started and got the track to move a little bit and it cleared codes 42 and 84!! however after about 15-60 seconds it turned off.
so at this point i'm guessing i should just take off those grounding blocks and solder the wires?
also it seems my battery is completely dead, have been using a battery charger to start it.
When I have the charger on trickle charge or 40 amp charge and turn the key on the left most relay under the left foot slot just keeps clicking, but once i put the charger to 200 amp start it stops clicking and i think you hear the pump?
so at this point i'm guessing i should just take off those grounding blocks and solder the wires?
also it seems my battery is completely dead, have been using a battery charger to start it.
When I have the charger on trickle charge or 40 amp charge and turn the key on the left most relay under the left foot slot just keeps clicking, but once i put the charger to 200 amp start it stops clicking and i think you hear the pump?

RobX-1
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On my 08 Apex LTX-GT , I found a total of 6 square grounding blocks and two flat grounding blocks. Of those square blocks, two you found but there are three more further down into the nose and there was also one on the passenger side near the fuse box. On my Apex, there was also a flat ground block with the two blocks you found and another one with the three further down in the nose.
With that said, all of my grounding blocks looked just like your two so I did not remove them and solder together. Instead, I just filled the square grounding blocks with de-electric grease, installed the cap, and then re-taped. If yours or even any of mine looked like what others have posted where they got hot and burnt wires and/or connector, then I would definitely recommend removing. However, I would confirm the remaining ones look as good as the two you found. What I am unsure of is if all Apex's have the same amount of grounding blocks. The best thing to do is continue following that cable harness into the nose of snowmobile and locate and inspect any grounding blocks you find along the way but also be sure to check the one by the fuse box.
Another thing to check is your battery as it may be bad or is going bad. Just as the grounding blocks can and will cause electrical gremlins, so can a bad battery. I would also check the starter relay for any corrosion on the contacts as well.
With that said, all of my grounding blocks looked just like your two so I did not remove them and solder together. Instead, I just filled the square grounding blocks with de-electric grease, installed the cap, and then re-taped. If yours or even any of mine looked like what others have posted where they got hot and burnt wires and/or connector, then I would definitely recommend removing. However, I would confirm the remaining ones look as good as the two you found. What I am unsure of is if all Apex's have the same amount of grounding blocks. The best thing to do is continue following that cable harness into the nose of snowmobile and locate and inspect any grounding blocks you find along the way but also be sure to check the one by the fuse box.
Another thing to check is your battery as it may be bad or is going bad. Just as the grounding blocks can and will cause electrical gremlins, so can a bad battery. I would also check the starter relay for any corrosion on the contacts as well.

RobX-1
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74Nitro
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Good comments here, but don't ignore the blocks that connect non-ground wires also.


Change the battery.so i check the ground blocks, i only found 2, they look ok but i fiddled with them and then tried the starting it and it started and got the track to move a little bit and it cleared codes 42 and 84!! however after about 15-60 seconds it turned off.
so at this point i'm guessing i should just take off those grounding blocks and solder the wires?
also it seems my battery is completely dead, have been using a battery charger to start it.
When I have the charger on trickle charge or 40 amp charge and turn the key on the left most relay under the left foot slot just keeps clicking, but once i put the charger to 200 amp start it stops clicking and i think you hear the pump?View attachment 155543
rocksolidsr
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finally got the new battery installed and i'm glad to report that it seems to be working good now!! thanks for the help everyone!!


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