snowxwi
Extreme
07 Apex GT
I'm a big guy and looking to update the skid to prevent future problems. I am not mechanically inclined so does anyone have any step by step tips for removing the skid and then disassembling to to get the arms to send out for powder coating? I have looked at the mono skid removal instructions on this site, is this the best way to do it since I have the electric mono?
Also, since the skid will be out, I will be getting a big boy spring and re-valve on my shock. Who have you guys used in the past for this? Approximate cost for the re-valve?
I am a bit nervous about removing the skid but it looks like the mono might be easy to work with pulling it out and getting it back in. Any info you guys have would be great.
BRING ON THE SNOW!
I'm a big guy and looking to update the skid to prevent future problems. I am not mechanically inclined so does anyone have any step by step tips for removing the skid and then disassembling to to get the arms to send out for powder coating? I have looked at the mono skid removal instructions on this site, is this the best way to do it since I have the electric mono?
Also, since the skid will be out, I will be getting a big boy spring and re-valve on my shock. Who have you guys used in the past for this? Approximate cost for the re-valve?
I am a bit nervous about removing the skid but it looks like the mono might be easy to work with pulling it out and getting it back in. Any info you guys have would be great.
BRING ON THE SNOW!
snowxwi
Extreme
I've been looking at Pioneer Performance for the Re-valve of the shock. Anyone have reviews of them and their work?
RTX
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i used pioneer in the past. they were ok.
i switched to hygear. in my opinion i am happier with hygear
Dont know if you noticed but there is a stickie on shock valving and the 07 apex in the top 4-5 posts of the apex general section
i switched to hygear. in my opinion i am happier with hygear
Dont know if you noticed but there is a stickie on shock valving and the 07 apex in the top 4-5 posts of the apex general section
I used pioneer for my 07 attak last year. Very happy with them + night and day better than OEM. I have not used anybody else.
Lot's of info in the stickies at the top of this forum
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles ... emoval.htm
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles ... emoval.htm
snowxwi
Extreme
guardrail said:Lot's of info in the stickies at the top of this forum
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles ... emoval.htm
So I'm assuming the instructions here work for the Apex even though its controlled at the handlebars and not on the side like that?
Yeah, there's a connector on the shock, and if you follow the wire through the tunnel, it goes up the right side of the sled. Make sure you unplug and get it out of the way before you remove the skid
thor452
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yes the connector is under the side panel for the wire then lossen the track and remove the 4 bolst and she is out to get back in you need to compress the suspension and it will go in smooth best to repost when about to put in or search the process that is where it can get frustrating as it will seem impossible to get it back in but if you do it right it is a 5 min job.
snowxwi
Extreme
The instructions posted in the FAQ states to put the shock to full hard due to some of the low clicks not doing anything. Is that the same for me since it's set at the handlebars instead? What is the best position to have the shock in to remove it? Still full hard? Does it not matter?
Also, Pioneer vs Hygear on revalving/big boy spring?
Also, Pioneer vs Hygear on revalving/big boy spring?
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Be sure to read about the EC shock cable routing instructions. There was a bulletin on it from Yamaha. Use plenty of zipties when going back in.
Taking the skid apart for powder was not too tough other than a couple of the upper wheels were a PIA. Sack up your parts and label them.
I did my rails as well, but there seems to be a debate on if the heat used in the Powder coat process makes them brittle. I would guess some opinions would pop up here. I had a crack in my rail welded, but I also did the beef up kit. Heck, my skid had nearly 10,000 miles on it, so the beef up and powder coat was a good investment.
Good luck. Have the ratchet straps ready to compress that skid when you put it back in. 2-person job if you want to hit that 5-min mark.
Taking the skid apart for powder was not too tough other than a couple of the upper wheels were a PIA. Sack up your parts and label them.
I did my rails as well, but there seems to be a debate on if the heat used in the Powder coat process makes them brittle. I would guess some opinions would pop up here. I had a crack in my rail welded, but I also did the beef up kit. Heck, my skid had nearly 10,000 miles on it, so the beef up and powder coat was a good investment.
Good luck. Have the ratchet straps ready to compress that skid when you put it back in. 2-person job if you want to hit that 5-min mark.
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Coming out will be easy, going back in well make sure you do a search for install 'tips' and it will make your life easier.
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You can do this repair yourself plus you will know your sled even better after you do it once. Take lots of photos of how things looked assembled to refer to when putting back together. Some of the shafts are a bitch when trying to get the bolts out of both sides. There is black clicker knob at the end of the shock -if you do not have all clicks (30 I think) your shock needs repair. You might as well send your skid parts to Half-Baked for update while they are out. Mine is updated by HyGear with the double twisted spring, I have had Pioneer work on my stuff before also, including my 06 GT, and they are very good. Putting the skid back in by one person can be a challenge but is possible. Lots of reading here to get your answers.
thor452
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with the ec shockit dont matter what position the adjustment is in when you remove or install it.
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If you are taking skid out I would replace the stock bushing with the better ones that pioneer performance selles .
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