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07 Apex Gt Skid update help

I will be pulling the skid tomorrow.

I am having the arms sent to half baked for beef-up and powder coating.
The shock is being sent to pioneer for the big boy spring and re-valve.

I have the stock Idler wheels on this machine. Do I upgrade while the skid is apart? I don't want to spend a ton on wheels, but if it's really worth it in the long run I would be interested in investing now while the thing is apart. I have read through the wheels section of the FAQ and not sure what wheels people are using.

Any an all suggestions, with links, is appreciated.
 

most of the problem wheels are easy enuff to change as they go bad the ones to worry about now are all the bigger ones. can be a pita to change the two uppers later. they do seem to last around 5-7k so its prob time for them if there is any side to side play in them or if berring are at all questionable change them out. all the rest just check and if good change as they fail and just get the better yamaha ones with the changeable berrings.
 
Hi all,

I got the skid removed and have everything taken apart except one thing. I cannot figure out how to get the Large top idler wheels off of the rear suspension arm. I have taken the bolts off and have tried pulling the wheels off but them see pretty stuck on there.

The top wheels in this picture is what I can't get to come off. Any ideas?

2wovxoz.jpg
 
I just put a gear puller on them and pulled them off but I was putting new wheels on. The gear puller will more than likely wreck the wheels.
 
those are the wheels I would change out while you have it out. be careful not to damage the shaft but they just slide on and off. I use a brass drift and a hammer to get them off by knocking the shaft in.
 
The wheels are in good shape but still cannot get them off.

I have tried knocking the ends in on each side and nothing is budging. I am limited in the tools I have.

Does anyone have any other suggestions to getting these wheels off without damaging them or the shaft?
 
Try standing the suspension up on its side and soaking with PB Blaster or something equal. A little heat to the inside of the bearing wouldn't hurt either before pounding them off. Thread the bolt into the end of the shaft and pound on the head of the bolt to break the shaft away from the inner bearing race.

I guess they haven't been off in a while, I have never experience them frozen onto the shaft, and they should just tap off the shaft, as the interference fit is minimum.

Kaz
 
Knock them off with a hammer and replace them they wear out around 6-7000 miles cheap insurance.
 
If you unbolt the rear arm from the suspension, it will be much easier to handle, put in vise, support with blocking etc. An air hammer on the bolt in the shaft works, the vibration does wonders. I prefer to use a sacraficial bolt in the shaft because if you beat on it hard enough the head will be junk when your done. I learned a helpful trick from someone on this site is to remove the circlip on the back side of the wheel which will alow you to remove the wheel from the bearing from the wheel. This will help save the wheel you plan on reusing and once the wheel is off, it is much easier to apply heat, support in a vise, etc.
 
About 6700 miles on the sled. These wheels have been replaced before I think.

It looks like there is some sand or something caked on the ends, not sure if that is causing an issue or not. I will clean it up as best I can and try heating it up. I need to get these off so I can send the arms in for the beef-up kit.
 
I did finally get these wheels off. A lot of pounding but nothing looks damaged.

I think I will just replace those top large wheels while it's all apart. I don't ever want to have to take those off again.

Shock is sent out for new spring/re-valve and arms are getting beef up kit. AND it's SNOWING today. Can't wait to ride!
 


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