1,200 mile 07 Attak ride report...UPDATED 03/14/07

When rpm,s are dropping off it ain,t the clutching....been chasing that one for 2 seasons. More fuel is needed down low!! When i get some spare time to do some messing around in mid feb I will prove it to you guys! I will tell you what & exactly how I solved it & how much extra fuel it took. Gonna try the manual paperclip thingy 1st & then add my Boondocker controller if needed!!
 
Turk said:
When rpm,s are dropping off it ain,t the clutching....been chasing that one for 2 seasons. More fuel is needed down low!! When i get some spare time to do some messing around in mid feb I will prove it to you guys! I will tell you what & exactly how I solved it & how much extra fuel it took. Gonna try the manual paperclip thingy 1st & then add my Boondocker controller if needed!!

Turk,

Why would you not just use the boondocker? Seems foolish to do it with stock control if you have Boondocker. I have my boondocker set at +1 at the 3500 range. Seems to be pretty good.
 
You say you tightened up your limiter strap one hole,where does that put it now as all Attaks seemed to come from the factory in diiferent holes?Mine came in the second from the last hole.Which let out the strap almost to the fullest,handled like crap in that position.I now have it second from the tightest hole handles much better but lost some suspension on the front.Where is yours set? Thanx
 
Stoutner; just being lazy & taking the easy way out. Gotta find a place to mount the bd box. Where did you mount yours? Been unreal busy with other stuff & no time till mid feb. If you could pm me with a pic where u mounted yours at
brodam@westman.wave.ca
Thanx
 
Another comment/category comes to mind now that I'm reading some other posts...

TAILLIGHT: Gets compliments from everyone who follows me...LEDs are very bright and easy to see in all conditions day and night. BUT, it's flopping around loose in the hole like many others seem to be. I've had the seat off and positioned it properly/securely twice...then it just pops loose very shortly into the ride. I've decided it's just a poor installation design. Oh well...you never know it's a problem unless you wiggle it, and apparently the visibility is always good regardless. So I'm just leaving it as-is flopping around in the hole.
 
Turk said:
Stoutner; just being lazy & taking the easy way out. Gotta find a place to mount the bd box. Where did you mount yours? Been unreal busy with other stuff & no time till mid feb. If you could pm me with a pic where u mounted yours at
brodam@westman.wave.ca
Thanx
im getting the yamaha windshield bad to put mine in. then nobody will see it, its out of the elements and easy to get to. http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/acces ... etail.aspx
 
black700 said:
you guy's want to rail around corner's get the 13 mm sway bar i'm telling ya it work's it is nite and day differrence

I have the 13mm bar and agree with you. I ride the trails and rarely wander into boondocker land. I think if I did the stock bar might be a better option.
 
Thought I'd bump this and close the season out with a final report.

In the end, 1,654 miles put on the 07 Attak. Dissapointingly low but I had a lot of personal issues due to home-improvement contractors gone bad that have kept me off the sled too much this year...'but that's OK, not every year can be perfect. My mileage also sort of came to a temporary halt with this machine when it went glug-glug and I dumped it partially into the icy water a bit over month ago. That tied it up at the dealer and gave me a few scary moments when the initial diagnosis was "hydrolock" and needed a new engine, therefore it was totalled.

BUT, in the end the dealer's premature diagnostic was gloomier than necessary...after draining water out of the motor, drying everything out, and a few oil changes to ensure it was undamaged, I got another 500+ mile trip in, and it ran like a top the whole way. In fact I clocked a new top speed of 122 speedo on that trip, which is no small task IMO for a 1.5 inch paddle tracked sled that's running as loose as can be.

My general ride impressions are about the same as I initially wrote, though I'm now less disappointed in the clutching as I was at the time. Didn't do anything so I can't explain that. It's really not too bad...just not a dead-start drag-racer. Then again, neither am I so I guess that doesn't bother me too much. Corner to corner it's very good. But now I have some off-trail boondocking experience under my belt. This sled simply doesn't do that very well. Not terrible, but not good either. It's got me shopping for a new sled, and right now I'm honing in very closely on an 08 Dragon Switchback 700 CFI. We'll see if I actually pull the trigger. You'll know when I put this Attak in the classified section next fall, most likely as an Ebay auction with no minimum and no reserve...that's how I usually sell my stuff, crazy or not.

As a trail sled, this thing absolutely excels. And the setup I have here works EXTREMELY well for my weight and style of riding as long as the snow is set up.

Yesterday I put it to bed for the summer...another oil change, full lube, new hyfax, stabilized the gas, check alignment of everything, complete cleanup, and a 100% nose to tail inspection for wear and tear/damage.

Here's a durability report for end of season:

Hyfax: 1,654 miles, and my left original hyfax finally wore a hole the size of a dime at the front bend. That's with a loose track and SLP wear pads. That's also a 1.5 inch paddle track and some VERY, VERY snirty and low-snow conditions mixed in. These last 500 miles included some ROUGH stuff, including about 50 miles of completely snow-free dirt-only trails to get us home out of a bad situation one day. All in all, I found that to be very acceptable. SLP wear pads are fairly worn, but all are present, none are worn to the point of razor-sharp, and they'll probably be good for another 1000 miles or so. I think they helped with hyfax wear considering the bad conditions I rode in, but I don't know that for a fact. They do roll easily when coasting....which is very nice.

Idler wheels. I didn't have the issue others seem to have. I still have all original rubbers in excellent condition. The left front outer threw off its seal and the bearing is grumbling loudly. Right center is also grumbling a bit. Will replace 2 under warranty. Remember I ran a lot of snirt. I found this very good.

Suspension: Left front rubber bumper stop is torn in half...bottomed out once too hard I guess and sliced it like butter. Replaced under warranty. No other problems. Shocks/springs work great, no slop, well lubed and working nicely. I beat it pretty hard. I'm pleased with the durability.

Slydog/Bergstrom triple points Skis are very durable and have nothing but normal scratches underneath. Ski savers are NASTY, need replacement. My right triple point is now a double-point, the inner 8 inch carbide is completely missing, the other two look pretty good but somewhat worn. The left one is still a triple point but has about 1 inch of carbide missing from the inner. Centers are worn flat, outsides still in good shape. Not bad considering the low snow conditions, rock impacts, and a lot of plowed roads. These are durable wear-bars and I'd recommend them. Will run 'em again. They have heavier wear to the rear than the front. Might be smart to shim the fronts to get them levelled more. Might keep these skis and put them on whatever sled I buy...we'll see.

TORS Stupidest invention I've ever heard of. I bypassed it, I hate it, and any Yamaha I ever own in the future will have it bypassed at the first sign of evil code 84.

Reverse Needed the linkage adjustment, problem solved. Works well now.

End of list. A VERY reliable, trouble-free, strong, smooth, and wonderful sled. Still dart-free, rails the turns, love it in the bumps, the motor is stunningly perfect in every way. I don't understand the seemingly frequent complaints of track ratcheting, hand-warmer issues, idler wheel probs, headlight complaints, bottoming out too much, darting, etc. I simply don't share ANY of those complaints at all. If I knew I was going to keep this sled, I'd take a little rivet weight off the primary to get RPMS up just a touch higher...but that's just 'cause I'm a perfectionist. Otherwise it needs NOTHING. But I don't think I'll bother with the clutch tweak since I'm seriously sled shopping.

I want to point out that I do not have the extra heat exchanger, and I seriously tested the cooling system on this last trip during that 50 mile mostly dirt run on a 40 degree day. The engine NEVER got even close to too hot. Light never flickered, electric fan never even kicked in. I am a FIRM believer that the oveheat complaints on this site are from people running the original Yamaha mixed coolant. JUST DILUTE IT so the coolant has enough water to exchange the heat properly. This sled simply does not need an extra heat exchanger if you have a proper coolant mix...unless of course you really insist on making an already heavy sled even heavier...

If it was better in the off-trail exploration department I love so much, and not such a hernia-inducing pig to dig out of trenches, I'd keep it for sure. But I think it's time to move on to something a bit lighter. Will keep you all informed of what (or if) I buy...
 
Craze1cars, did you notice alot of quick dipping and diving on the front end in off trail conditions? I ride in crusty snow and varring snow conditions(NO TRAILS),and this is the scariest ,worst handling sled I have owned in 35 years.On the river the other day at 40mph,in 8" of wet soft snow ,the slightest movement on the handle bars would send the sled in that directions and make the sled want to tip over on its front corner.I have tried everything from everyone and can not get this Attak to handle 10% as well as a Cat or Polaris on the front end.Freinds have driven it and got off never to return, they said it is truley unpredictable on the front end,you don't know if it is going to dip right left or go straight.I've talked to Yamahaand 4 dealers no one can say why it handles like this.It must be just this sled as no one else would ride them if they all handled like this.On trails it is great,crosscountry it is dangerous.
 
Zip, I remember your complaints from earlier in the season.

I don't share that problem....not sure how or why, so I wish I could help you more. While I freely admit that I don't care for how this sled handles off-trail, it's strictly due to the weight of the front end. But I do not find it to be unpredictable or dangerous in any way. It just takes huge muscle to get it to move the way I want it to when I'm steering with body-english, compared to other sleds. It's just very fatiguing. I think it's simply too front-heavy, but I've never had the sudden dip/dive/pitch problems you're describing.

Hate to say this for fear of rubbing salt in your wounds...but if someone was wanting advice on which sled to buy that would be used exclusively for cross-country off-trail riding, I would highly discourage that person from buying an Attak. This is a trail sled, no question about it.
 
Going to put the stock skis on this weekend.That is the only thing I haven't tried.I drove it from new with mountain skis on it, maybe the keel is so aggressive that it makes the sled grab causing the nose to dive and want to roll.I let you all know.
 
zip, the attak is just heavy in the front, I have noticed it also but not to the point where it really bothered me. I agree with crazy, the attak may have a 136 track but it is not a good off trail sled or powder sled, it is just too heavy. I love mine, but if poaris would put a 800 in that dragon switchback I think I would get one.
 
still havent figured out i know what your talking about imscared to go out till the ice lifts here dont want to roll my sled
 


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