1.5 inch track and ANTI-RATCHET Drivers ????'s

[snowman4]

I have a 06 Attak and would like to put a 1.5 inch track on it and ANTI-RATCHET drivers. I read alot about it and if I'm correct I would have to cut the lugs so that the track slips by the tunnel protectors in the front and the windows all have to be open.

Do you have to clip all of the open holes or is it ok to run the ANTI-RATCHET drivers with some of them not clipped?

Now what do I have to buy for the ANTI-RATCHET drivers? Just the drivers and press them on to the shaft that comes stock on the Attak or buy a whole drive shaft assembly from Skidoo.

I think from reading some of other post its the 9 tooth ANTI-RATCHET drivers that I would need?

Any info that you could give me would be great.

 

[craze1cars]

You can run it clipped every third, with windows cut open.

As for what you need to buy? I dunno. I believe you'll just get the drivers and press them on the Attak shaft, as opposed to buying the entier Doo shaft. But I haven't personally done the conversion so don't take my word for it...

I ran a 1.5 incher with stock drivers relatively loose, and it never ratcheted once in 1700 miles. So I didn't see the need for extroverts.

Others here have said otherwise.

 

[schmeg]

IYes, the drivers fit on the stock axle. If you full clip it you also run the benifit of less rolling resistance, cooler hyfax/track, and no ratcheting which some sleds, but not all mysteriously experience. I wasn't going to bother, but I allready have everything tore apart for my track/stretch conversion. You have yo buy the drivers (50 apiece for doo) xtra clips at 2 bucks a piece, and a clip crimping tool, and a sharp knife to cut the blind windows out. It may not be worth the added bother, but I figure it adds to my summer project.

 

[1CrazySledder]

I'm doing the same thing over the summer. I am going with ani-rachet due to the Super Cahrger that is going in. I don't think you have to trim the track, either. I could be wrong here. As for the drivers, if you stud the track, go with the 8t driver and if your not going to stud, then go with a 9t. I'm going to be running the 8t with studs.

-1CS

 

[schmeg]

9t with a 1.5 x 136 Intense no studs. I took out the tunnel protectors just to be sure. I'm getting the drivers pressed on today by a local shop. I'm just not sure yet what to do with the metal outer collars that used to be outside of the outboard track drivers. Should I run them up flush against the new ski doo drivers in their new location, or run them in their old location. They are steel collars with a set screw on them.

 

[Need for Speed 2]

put back in the original spot. the doo drivers are great. run the track loose shell coast for miles.

 

[ReX]

put back in the original spot. the doo drivers are great. run the track loose shell coast for miles.

He's talking about the locking collars that help to hold the stock drivers in position.

With the Doo drivers you don't need to re-install them, but if you do, push them up against the drivers just like they were stock (even though they'll be much farther in).

Since Skidoo doesn't run the locking collars, I took them off and didn't re-install them. My drivers are still perfectly aligned so they aren't moving.