'10 Vector Starter Replcement

[BryKlu]

Hi everyone. I caused a short circuit and I believe I have blown my starter. The battery and starter relay appear to be good. I see starter removal procedures for the pre-2010 sleds and for Vipers but not for the 2010 with the smaller oil filter access panel. I believe I will have to loosen the front engine mount bolts, remove the rear long bolt, remove the exhaust doughnut clamps, then rock the motor forward. If anyone could provide the best way I would appreciate the help. There is no way to get to the starter bolts from the oil filter access panel.

 

[BryKlu]

Also, Vilas county trails open up Saturday at 9am. If anyone knows how to help with this and is coming this way, I can provide a free place to stay in Presque Isle with direct access to MI and WI trails.

 

[Roger]

I'm not a mechanic, but I am an Electrician.
I don't know what you mean by "shorted out your starter", but you can't.
The only way you could damage a motor is to apply too high a voltage to it, or, if it's stuck, keep applying voltage to it until it overheats and fails.
This scenario can only happen if you've bypassed the fuse that protects the starter and it's wiring.
If the solenoid has stayed energized, after the engine has started, which has happened to others on this site, the starter will fail too, just because a starter isn't designed to run, forever, like a regular motor.
Apply 12 volts directly to the load side of your solenoid, briefly, and there will be an arc!
If the starter turns over the engine, your troubles are somewhere else.
If the engine doesn't turn over, it is your starter.
Hope this saves you tonnes of work, by finding a faulty solenoid.

 

[BryKlu]

Thanks for the reply Roger. I had the sled apart to change the track and a positive wire touched the frame. There were sparks and smoke. I got it all back together and it wouldn't start. I just had it started a month prior and it has been sitting on a battery tender. The first three times I tried it would crank three times and die. Now it just grinds. Battery is new and charged, I am getting proper voltage at the starter relay, all fuses are physically good and I checked their resistance. I get dash lights and all gauges. No codes. Resistance at voltage regulator/rectifier and crankshaft position sensor is good. Primary turns ccw just fine. So all this leads me to believe the starter is shot.

 

[Bill-winnipesaukee]

Hi everyone. I caused a short circuit and I believe I have blown my starter. The battery and starter relay appear to be good. I see starter removal procedures for the pre-2010 sleds and for Vipers but not for the 2010 with the smaller oil filter access panel. I believe I will have to loosen the front engine mount bolts, remove the rear long bolt, remove the exhaust doughnut clamps, then rock the motor forward. If anyone could provide the best way I would appreciate the help. There is no way to get to the starter bolts from the oil filter access panel.

Hello - I want to be careful in my response, but i just removed the starter (which wasn't doing anything when i applied 12V positive directly to the load post via a jumper cable. When i got it out, it did indeed seem to have a short. Just ordered a new one. To be specific, my machine is a 2005 RS Rage. Before you rock the engine back (and even after, it doesn't look like you can get to it, but it came out pretty easy. I am going to post the steps and some pictures later today...

 

[BryKlu]

Well...It wasn't a short as Roger said. The internals of the started are destroyed which explains the grinding. I was stupidly thinking I had to take out the long screws and not the 12mm hex bolts so I dismantled way more than needed. I should have looked at the new starter. I did buy an OEM one for $360. Partzilla has been the lowest prices and fastest shipping I've found. Their inventory is live online as well which is nice. At least I know this was the issue and I should be good to go once I get it all back together. New starter relay is on the way too just in case. Happy New Year everyone!

 

[74Nitro]

Well...It wasn't a short as Roger said. The internals of the started are destroyed which explains the grinding. I was stupidly thinking I had to take out the long screws and not the 12mm hex bolts so I dismantled way more than needed. I should have looked at the new starter. I did buy an OEM one for $360. Partzilla has been the lowest prices and fastest shipping I've found. Their inventory is live online as well which is nice. At least I know this was the issue and I should be good to go once I get it all back together. New starter relay is on the way too just in case. Happy New Year everyone!

I think you were wise to stay with the OEM here. It isn't like they can be changed in a pinch like some sleds and atv's.

 

[BryKlu]

Found out a little secret. The hand-end of the spanner wrench that is in the sled toolkit will turn the engine mount spacers just fine

 

[Roger]

I never said anything about a short!

 

[BryKlu]

I never said it was a short, just to clarify.

Maybe my wording was confusing Like Roger said, it wasn't a short. There!

 

[Roger]

And that's why I've basically given upon posting ANYTHING on this site!

 

[DGZRT]

And that's why I've basically given upon posting ANYTHING on this site!

Roger, I thought your post were informative !!! I have two Vectors and if I have troubles with the starters I will follow your advice ! We all need a little snow! Happy New Years !

 

[grizztracks]

These starters have had a problem with the magnets coming loose. Anyone dealing with starter issues should read this: https://ty4stroke.com/threads/starter-gears-and-one-way-clutch-inspection.150516/

 

[BryKlu]

Thanks for that Grizz. Although I hope I don't regret this, I will save that for Summer project time along with an Ulmer clutch kit and maybe headers She is starting great now and ran her 200 miles this weekend. As you said, replacing the starter wasn't really that bad in hindsight, but I hope to have a different sled before I have to do it again