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Lifetime Member Tim
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- Yamaha FX Nytro RTX SE
Our 2016 required an adjustment of the rod due to having the same problem.
If belt deflection is too tight it too can cause shifting in and out of reverse issues.
If belt deflection is too tight it too can cause shifting in and out of reverse issues.


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- 2016 apex xtx
2011 apex xtx
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1988 vk 540
this is for rx 1 but adjustment is the same for apex/vector/venture.
https://totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/techpdf/reversegrind.pdf
https://totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/techpdf/reversegrind.pdf

CaptCaper
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- 2016 RS Vector XTX 1.25 Lug wifes..2013 RS Vector LTX.. 2003 600 VMax Past Machines 3-2007 Attaks 1-2010 Vector LTX.. sorry no Stinkdoos or poo's cats.
Our 2016 required an adjustment of the rod due to having the same problem.
If belt deflection is too tight it too can cause shifting in and out of reverse issues.
I always try to apply the brake before shifting. This stop's the deflection if too tight enableing reverse easier.
Wobbie
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- 15 Vector
I'm new here, first year with a '15 Vector. I was amazed when I bought the machine that if I put the rear of the sled on a stand and started it up the track would roll forward. And not just inching along as though there was a little drag, it wanted to go. I also noticed that it didn't like to shift in/out of reverse. Seemed to me that two might be related.
This tendancy to roll on is not from the primary sheaves grabbing the belt, but the central hub or spindle of he primary rolling the belt via the coged inside face of the belt. Essentially the belt is too short - by design. Yes, it's a Yamaha belt in good condition.
Anyway, I pulled the secondary and removed one set of washers under the adjusting bolts. This spaces the two secondary sheaves a little further apart and lets the belt drop in a little bit. Now, on the stand, it has a little push to the track but not enough to run away with itself. Takes the tension off the chaincase gears when idling and now it shifts every time.
Frankly, this is where some of your engine braking also comes from. Years ago I had a SkiDoo Citation and the primary had a needle bearing on that hub on the clutch. You could idle without inducing drag on the belt.
This tendancy to roll on is not from the primary sheaves grabbing the belt, but the central hub or spindle of he primary rolling the belt via the coged inside face of the belt. Essentially the belt is too short - by design. Yes, it's a Yamaha belt in good condition.
Anyway, I pulled the secondary and removed one set of washers under the adjusting bolts. This spaces the two secondary sheaves a little further apart and lets the belt drop in a little bit. Now, on the stand, it has a little push to the track but not enough to run away with itself. Takes the tension off the chaincase gears when idling and now it shifts every time.
Frankly, this is where some of your engine braking also comes from. Years ago I had a SkiDoo Citation and the primary had a needle bearing on that hub on the clutch. You could idle without inducing drag on the belt.
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