12mm Sway Bar AND Longer Links...anyone try this?

[SIMMER]

:idea: Just wondering if anyone has successfully tried this setup? I have a Pioneer Performance 12mm Sway Bar that I would like to add the longer links to but I am unsure if this is possible... :roll: :?:

 

[Swiss Sledder]

I am pretty sure this what the dealer did to my sled last March. I know they installed the links and upgraded the sway bar, just not sure if it was 12 mm bar. I will check my invoice when I get to the office tomorrow.

I posted the results out here, but it was before the crash of the server in April. It did help to reduce the ski lift, but not as much as I had hoped. Anyway, I will check the invoice and let you know.

 

[RobX-1]

I recall reading a post a while back that stated they did not recommend the longer links with the 12mm bar; they only recommended the longer links with either the 10mm or 11mm OR just use the 12mm bar w/o the longer links. The only think I can't remember was why. I'm thinking the 12mm bar was breaking when used in conjunction with the longer links but then I also remembered reading there was a bad batch of 12mm bars so maybe that is why they broke. Apparently, the 12mm bar will resolve what the 10-11mm bar w/ longer links resolves and that is inside ski lift. Obvisously, just buying the 12mm bar will be cheaper, unless you already have the longer links.

 

[Convert]

Just got the 12mm bar myself and already have the longer links can't wait to try the combo out . According to previous posts it's not recommended and a few did break their sway bars last year when using the longer links. The 11mm is recommended but mnmsnowbeast used 12mm combo for half of last season and had no problems at all. If he can't break it nobody can :lol: . I still have my stock links and figure if the 12mm is too much one can always go back to the shorter ones.

 

[Fox1_RX-1]

Convert your butt is on the light side so maybe you will need the heavier sway to keep the skis down. Did you find the longer links helped? I'm thinking the 11mm and the longer links because I'm a fat a$$. The 12mm were breaking at first because of a defect at the spline but I think they were able to solve the problem half way through the season. The Woodys Doolies runners helped stablize the front end of my sled but would like to see more.

 

[Convert]

Fox1 RX1 your right my butt is pretty light but I think Pete (MNMsnowbeast) is in the 200lb- 225lb class and he likes to spend as much time in the air as on the ground. His 12mm with longer links lasted most of last year and he thinks we should just go for it. I really liked the stability that the longer links gave me on slopes but was'nt completely happy with the cornering, from everything i hear the 12mm is the ticket. There is a 13mm also but don't know anyone that has needed both that and the longer links.

 

[Fox1_RX-1]

13mm :shock: if they are making them that big then maybe the 12mm is the way to go. Have not looked a the Yamaha site for a while. Just wondering what sizes of sway bars they have. Is there a better after market shop to buy the sway from? I will get they longer links from Yamaha but the sway???? Pioneer????

 

[Convert]

Here's where i got mine http://www.pioneermotorsport.com/pp_index.htm

 

[snowbeast]

Thanks steve,you r kinda scaring me man,i think you got me figured out steve lol that is scary he he ya i used 12mm w/longer links w/no problems and that was on the light side steve,wish i was 200-225 more like 245-250 than add suit boots and brain bucket,must be 260 than at least,now you know why i need NOS/ TURBO lmfao. Well guys all of this stuff still does not completely keep my ski-doo dullies planted all of the time,so heres the deal,call maximum performance and get a new pair of preety blue ski springs w/140# force should be just the ticket,but just cause we have the mods we tried last year,dont be scared keep that stuff on and try the springs,nothing to lose but great cornering ha ha see ya in sept.rear skid should be done and NOS on for the grass,its all stock i promise,no really,my hood is stuck,so i cant open it to show you how honest i am lol :twisted:

 

[Swiss Sledder]

Finally got around to checking the dealers invoice and they installed a 11mm sway bar with the links kit. It sounds like you got your questioned answered anyway.

I rode about 500 miles after this upgrade in March and it did not cure the ski lift, but it helped. Just to make sure I wasn't being too picky, I took a Viper for a spin on the same trails to gage its ski lift. None. I plan to do the 140# spring thing during the off season.

 

[SumpBuster]

Sorry for the long post, but I'd like to throw my $.02 in on handling. Last Nov. I groomed a circuit (of 5-6" snow) about a mile long through our fields and hedgerows, with some high speed, low speed, and off camber turns, as well as an 1100 ft. straight (we have an 80' wide X 1100 ft grass drag strip for club fun stuff and grass drag testing). I then used our black RX as a baseline and began adjusting the blue ER. I found for my style of riding the best handling was with the front shocks showing 7 threads and the front limiters with about 8 threads from the eye to the locknut. Very little lift and if you lean good into the turns, you could handle very well. Duplicating this on the black one showed the same result. Before this, I could run away from the black one as it would lift the skiis in hard cornering, and you had to slow down. I then installed an 11mm bar in the black one, and it felt flatter, but stiffer. I raised the settings back to stock, and the ski lift was back, maybe slightly better than before. These sleds have to get down on the ground to handle because of the high cg of the engine. Nothing much we can do about that. When riding this setup, you must attack bumps with the throttle on, as this will transfer some lift to the front and give you some travel. Under braking, the blue one with the stock 10 mm bar would be skittish, and dive somewhat, but the black with the same settings and 11mm bar was better.
With the sled sitting flat on concrete, the front arms are angled up (nose lower) and when you sit on it, the front arms should be parallel.
I think a variable rate progressive spring in the front, and the 11 or 12 mm bars will do the trick. But the sled has to stay low, and the rider will have to lean if riding it hard. Still working on the rear...have tried most every adjustment thats in there, and will now try the Ohlins (wife doesn't know yet. Tax cut check right back to the dealer :lol . But the front of the rear susp. limiter and shock has the most effect on the front end handling, and tightened up limits your transfer. Again, sorry about the length but maybe this will help someone decide what's right for them.

 

[Swiss Sledder]

No Apology Necessary

SumpBuster, that is some great advice! I am going to add that to "the list of items to reduce ski lift" that need to be done this fall. The RX-1 is such an awesome sled, but I want it to corner better and not be so tipsy.

 

[SumpBuster]

I like to try to maximize everything that came standard before buying other parts. I need to understand what the sled wants to do, and what I can realistically expect from it and make it do. If you work with them, and understand them, you can really roll. Did that too, literally! :wink:
But they are a fantastic piece of work, worthy of some time and money for tuning. I've gone as far as I can with the stock rear shock and spring, and MXZ900 says the Ohlins is a good investment.

 

[Convert]

I hear nothing but good things about the straight rate springs that will be my next stop. Played with the front rear shock and limiters last year and for my weight the stock setup worked the best.

 

[Swiss Sledder]

Weight?

SumpBuster:

I forgot to ask in my last, how much weight did you have on the RX-1's for those settings? I mean you and your gear weighed how much?

thankx