136" Conversion complete

[otis]

Click Image to Enlarge

I just completed my 136" conversion to my 03 RX-1! I used the Hartmann tunnel extension, Trackusa rail extensions with hyfax extenders on my 06 Apex RTX skid, Ripsaw 1.5x136 track, Apex GT seat, Ulmer Stage 3 clutch kit, and Battery to the belly pan relocation. It turned out to be better than I expected.

Otis

 

[Jack_Shaft]

Battery to the bellypan?!?!

Do explain...

 

[otis]

I changed batteries to the westco http://www.westcobattery.com/battery_pa ... =1&mid=103
which is only 5.1 lbs compared to the 15+ lb stock battery. I then removed the battery box and support bracket which is the real killer when you need to change oil. This saves another 1-2lbs if you care (heavy gauge steel). The battery won't quite fit thru the openings in the front of the bulkhead. The opening is underneath the toolbox and stupid cup holders. Removing these also saves another 3-4lbs (the tool box is heavy). I took my rotozip saw and carved out one of the corners of the openings to the bulkhead.

I needed to remove about 1/2" of aluminum to make the opening square to fit the battery. Now the battery fits down into the belly. This is better explained on the totallyamaha website under light weight battery relocation. They use a stupid non motorsport battery that won't start your sled in below zero conditions. This battery fits tightly down in the bulk head which lowers the center of gravity. Every little bit helps. It also has plenty of CCA and started my sled at -20F last winter. I was thinking about getting a MountainPerformance or Batcap 5lb capacitor/battery, but was not convienced that it would start the sled on really cold mornings.

I then affixed the battery down using the stock rubber strap by screwing 2 j-hook bolts into the bulkhead on both sides and stretching the strap to hold the battery down. Without the stock battery bracket the CDI module also had to be fastened down. I tapped the lower frame mount for a small screw and fastened that down which also ends up assisting in holding the battery down.

The cables amazingly are long enough to make it, but the black cable has a fused ground wire that I had to lengthen, but the main cable is easily long enough if you put the neg terminal towards the engine.

I'll put some more pics out, but the totallyamaha website maps it out pretty well. Just use a real battery instead of the little thing they show.

I am really happy since I took out 16 lbs and put the battery really low in the bulkhead to lower the COG.

Otis

 

[Yooper_Bob]

Looks great....you'll love the extra length.

I dropped my '05 Warrior off at the dealer today, and it goes under the knife on Monday...stretching it all the way out to 151"!!!

136" is good, but I ride an extensive amount of off-trail, and need a bit more flotation.

 

[suprfst]

looks good.Did you have a hard time getting the skid in place?

I was running the hartman extensions last year and they measure 7 3/4" of extension.Then i got the tracks usa extension this year and had one heck of a time getting the skid in place the track just wouldnt go loose enough and when I did get it in place it was too tight and thats with the adjusters threaded in so that the teflon of the nut was barley touching the stud.So I measured the tracks usa extension and it was 8 1/4 inches which is 1/2 longer than the hartman.So thinking I got the wrong extensions I called bruce and told him the problem and he said I was the only one that has said anything but I could send them back.I had allready sold the hartmans on ebay though So I put them in the mill and cut them down .625".Suspension went back easilly just like it had every time before the new extensions.

Ps you have to run the extended mono looser then you normally would.The reason is the track gets slightly tighter as It compresses.If you run the track too tight it wont let the suspension travel correctly.

 

[JDMCRX]

I like the battery only thing im wondering is how is that 130cca gonna work in the cold

 

[SISCAKIDD]

used the same battery at -20 f with know problems for the last 3 years.

 

[otis]

The 130 CCA started it sitting in my trailer when it was -20F but I don't know about when it's even colder. I usually start and run it at home before a big trip to ensure it starts and is fully charged. 1200 miles last year without even a hint of weakness. I started it this fall after sitting 6 months without charging it over the summer and it started the sled after I drained the float bowls and had to crank it several times 6-8 seconds each. I think it's a winner unless you leave it sit outside for long peroids of time in subzero weather. The battery has a large reserve which in my mind is more important than CCA. The motor doesn't take that much to turn over, but the reserve is important to keep it spinning. I was worried about the moutain performance battery which has over 200 CCA but almost no reserve so if it doesn't jump right off you have no reserve to keep trying or if you flood it you're dead.

As far as the skid installation I had to remove the transfer rod to get the skid in and then lower the skid onto a block to compress the suspension to reattach the transfer rod. When I did it that way it was really easy. If not I can see how hard it could be. When I pushed the skid into place I was 3/4" off from the rear bolt holes. Without removing the transfer rod I don't think I could have installed it. I am yet to tighten the track and will wait until there is snow to play with it to keep it just tight enough not to ratchet, but also keep it from stopping full travel.

I did run into one problem with the 1.5" ripsaw. The tunnel protectors hit the track when it is spinning at high speed. After running it on the stand I noticed a small pile of black rubber shavings on the ground. I hope it will make a groove on its own so I don't have to remove the entire track and remove the tunnel protectors or groove the track. I also hope that I don't ratchet too badly so that I need to put in anti-ratchet drivers while keeping the track loose. I guess I will find out when the snow flies.

Otis

 

[suprfst]

Yes ive found removing the bolt out of the transfer rod is the easiest way as well.

 

[JDMCRX]

Yeah that battery seams good im tempted to buy it but we get -40 to -50 winters here lol rrrrr

 

[Turtle]

looks good.Did you have a hard time getting the skid in place?

I was running the hartman extensions last year and they measure 7 3/4" of extension.Then i got the tracks usa extension this year and had one heck of a time getting the skid in place the track just wouldnt go loose enough and when I did get it in place it was too tight and thats with the adjusters threaded in so that the teflon of the nut was barley touching the stud.So I measured the tracks usa extension and it was 8 1/4 inches which is 1/2 longer than the hartman.So thinking I got the wrong extensions I called bruce and told him the problem and he said I was the only one that has said anything but I could send them back.I had allready sold the hartmans on ebay though So I put them in the mill and cut them down .625".Suspension went back easilly just like it had every time before the new extensions.

Ps you have to run the extended mono looser then you normally would.The reason is the track gets slightly tighter as It compresses.If you run the track too tight it wont let the suspension travel correctly.

I had the exact same problem with my Nytro this summer using the Tracks USA rail extensions. I ended up making a new tensioning system similiar to a Poo or a Doo setup all out of stainless steel (my brother owns a tool & die shop). The new tensioning system works great, and there was plenty of clearance for everything. I didn't mod the extensions as you did, but I considered that option.

I called Bruce at Tracks USA and I was told the same thing you were. But I like the option I came up with. I think the problem with his extensions isn't the length of the extension itself. I think the tensioning system is mounted in the wrong place.

 

[Bob Miller]

Nice work Otis! Now I'm just curious It looks like you have a ton of money invested in an 03 RX-1
Why not just get a new ATTAK? :ORC

 

[suprfst]

looks good.Did you have a hard time getting the skid in place?

I was running the hartman extensions last year and they measure 7 3/4" of extension.Then i got the tracks usa extension this year and had one heck of a time getting the skid in place the track just wouldnt go loose enough and when I did get it in place it was too tight and thats with the adjusters threaded in so that the teflon of the nut was barley touching the stud.So I measured the tracks usa extension and it was 8 1/4 inches which is 1/2 longer than the hartman.So thinking I got the wrong extensions I called bruce and told him the problem and he said I was the only one that has said anything but I could send them back.I had allready sold the hartmans on ebay though So I put them in the mill and cut them down .625".Suspension went back easilly just like it had every time before the new extensions.



Ps you have to run the extended mono looser then you normally would.The reason is the track gets slightly tighter as It compresses.If you run the track too tight it wont let the suspension travel correctly.

I had the exact same problem with my Nytro this summer using the Tracks USA rail extensions. I ended up making a new tensioning system similiar to a Poo or a Doo setup all out of stainless steel (my brother owns a tool & die shop). The new tensioning system works great, and there was plenty of clearance for everything. I didn't mod the extensions as you did, but I considered that option.

I called Bruce at Tracks USA and I was told the same thing you were. But I like the option I came up with. I think the problem with his extensions isn't the length of the extension itself. I think the tensioning system is mounted in the wrong place.

Hmm so I wasnt the first person to have the same problem.

Guys you wont have a ratcheting problem.If you look at the extra wheels on the attack when the suspension is extended the wheels are making the track tighter. When the supension is compressed the track is having less contact (for lack of a better word) and getting looser but the extra length of the rails is making the track tighter at the same time ,it kind of off sets each other.So with the extensions and no extra idler wheels like the attack you just have to run the track looser than nomal I run about 1.250 of sag with the suspension in the air no wieghts on track just freehanging.AS soon as you set the sled down and sit on it the track is tighter.If for some reason it does ratchet just tighten the adjusters up evenly 1/2 to 1 turn at a time evenly just like any other sled.

Also I shortened the rail extensions by about 2.5" where the highfax mount because the highfax stuck out past the half way point of the rear idler wheels and was hitting the track clips hard.It didnt have to be 2.5" shorter but thats where it looked the best as far as the holes that were machined in the extension.

 

[otis]

Buy an attak? (long)

Why would I need a new Attak over what I have? I am having more fun modifying a sled that is paid for many times over instead of getting $3-4k for mine and owing another $8k for something that is not better than what I have. I bought mine for $5k in 03 at a charity auction and have $2800 back into it. I have 3 full years of use in and still love it.

The reality is that all of you who believe that you are getting something special with the apex or attak over the RX-1 are missing something. The deltabox II chassis is the same one we are running with the steering post moved up a few inches. There are no other major chassis changes! Have you not noticed that all the parts from the apex bolt right on the RX-1 without modification?

The apex does gets very cool fuel injection, a new seat, new front a-arms, and the mono skid. That is all you have over the RX-1. I got a new take off skid for $800, the seat for $250, wide a-arm kit (with springs and swaybar kit) from pioneer performance for $500. I also added the ECP kit with evac and ulmer stage 3 clutching for another $550. The track, rail extension, tunnel extension also for another $700. The lite battery was another $35 from ebay. Simmons skis from a group buy for $375.

So I have $8000 in my crazy modified RX-1. Seems like good math to me. I could have bought a new RX-1 in 2003 for $9000 got $3000 in trade in for it and a new Attak for $11000 putting me at minus $17000 with a new Attak. I am $9000 ahead and still loving my sled which actually before the 136" extension was just as fast (or really close to) as all the Apex and Attak sleds I have run against.

I can also say I really understand how the snowmobile works from the inside out and the pride of doing it myself. So just going out and buying a new Attak....no way!

Sorry for the rant

Otis

 

[Bob Miller]

Excellent! If your Happy, I'm Happy