Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
I can't believe it but I'm going to put a new Camoplast Extreme 162 x 16 x 2 1/2" track on my non turboed RX-1M.
I plan to buy new 7 tooth 3.0" pitch drivers (Wahl brothers or Avid). Waht do you recommend? Does anyone have a set of drivers for sale?
I was wondering what gearing those of you who have this track recommend?
I have 20 and 21 tooth upper gears and 40 and 42 tooth lower gears. I am leaning toward the 20 x 42 setup. Should I reconsider?
Thanks
Frosty
I plan to buy new 7 tooth 3.0" pitch drivers (Wahl brothers or Avid). Waht do you recommend? Does anyone have a set of drivers for sale?
I was wondering what gearing those of you who have this track recommend?
I have 20 and 21 tooth upper gears and 40 and 42 tooth lower gears. I am leaning toward the 20 x 42 setup. Should I reconsider?
Thanks
Frosty
TT
TY 4 Stroke Master
This is a topic right down my lane - you got my attention Frosty!
I think you, Doo_man and I are in the same boat - all of use run at 162 track and 3,0 pitch and no boost. I also run a filterkit just like you.
The Whalbros drivers and 3,0 pitch track gave me a little vibration at top rpm in deep snow, but not to bad. I don't have the vibration on the trail. I only hear good thinks about Avid drivers - but they don't sell them in Norway.
I'm very pleased with my track change, but I'm still in proccese of getting the sled dealed in. At the moment I need more top rpm - I'm around 10000 at the moment. I kept stock gearing 21/40, but I have changed to a Ulmer racing clutckit (bought used). I have seen 11000 rpm at top, but then engagement was around 4800 rpm - and I want 3800 rpm. Belt was also slipping during engagement. So I'm battling that for the moment - but I'm getting closser.
I use the sled as a crossoversled - love it from 0-60mph. Sleds pulls hard compared to me friends stock RX-1M and 151" track, but track length and lack of extra 500 rpm is killing me. But I guess I can't have it all - with my new "bus".
Guess I have become a "rpm-addicted" just like you. I'm wondering about getting a shallower helix at the end to increase my rpm - I have also considered the schockwave helix like you use. But I don't feel I haven't tried out all options yet on the super tips. Too bad winter is at the end here in Norway - I guess we only have about 2-3 weeks of snowmobiling left.
Please keep me updated on gearing and clutching progresse - I have read here on TY that you have dialed your machine in real good!
I think you, Doo_man and I are in the same boat - all of use run at 162 track and 3,0 pitch and no boost. I also run a filterkit just like you.
The Whalbros drivers and 3,0 pitch track gave me a little vibration at top rpm in deep snow, but not to bad. I don't have the vibration on the trail. I only hear good thinks about Avid drivers - but they don't sell them in Norway.
I'm very pleased with my track change, but I'm still in proccese of getting the sled dealed in. At the moment I need more top rpm - I'm around 10000 at the moment. I kept stock gearing 21/40, but I have changed to a Ulmer racing clutckit (bought used). I have seen 11000 rpm at top, but then engagement was around 4800 rpm - and I want 3800 rpm. Belt was also slipping during engagement. So I'm battling that for the moment - but I'm getting closser.
I use the sled as a crossoversled - love it from 0-60mph. Sleds pulls hard compared to me friends stock RX-1M and 151" track, but track length and lack of extra 500 rpm is killing me. But I guess I can't have it all - with my new "bus".
Guess I have become a "rpm-addicted" just like you. I'm wondering about getting a shallower helix at the end to increase my rpm - I have also considered the schockwave helix like you use. But I don't feel I haven't tried out all options yet on the super tips. Too bad winter is at the end here in Norway - I guess we only have about 2-3 weeks of snowmobiling left.
Please keep me updated on gearing and clutching progresse - I have read here on TY that you have dialed your machine in real good!
Rx1M5
VIP Member
19 42 works well but the 20 42 will be fine. Spend the dough and get the Avids you'll need them when you boost it and everybody does eventually.
Rx1M5
Rx1M5
Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
Thanks Guys, Yes the obvious choice are the Avid drivers but a guy I really respect who has built and ridden them all told me to go with the Wahl Brothers because the Avids tend vibrate a bit more than the Wahl's (once they are broken in).
TT, yup we're pretty much in the same boat. Both of my parents families come from Norway. Yes, I'd recommend a Shockwave helix. It's amazing how I can now climb at 10,300 to 10,500 vs. the 9,500 RPM I could pull before. The added RPM make a HUGE difference in performance both on and off the trail.
So, with a 7 tooth 3.0" drivers the 2 1/2" track will fit without trimming?
Frosty
TT, yup we're pretty much in the same boat. Both of my parents families come from Norway. Yes, I'd recommend a Shockwave helix. It's amazing how I can now climb at 10,300 to 10,500 vs. the 9,500 RPM I could pull before. The added RPM make a HUGE difference in performance both on and off the trail.
So, with a 7 tooth 3.0" drivers the 2 1/2" track will fit without trimming?
Frosty
TT
TY 4 Stroke Master
I have 2,25" lugs and it fits fine. But I not sure if a 2,5" fits - even with the two highest parts of the front heat exchanger "grinded off" - it has to be a close call.
Nice to hear that that you have family from Norway - do you know from where?
Did you go with a multi angel og straight angel shockwave helix?
My summer project is wildchild kit and mountain mod tank cowling.
Nice to hear that that you have family from Norway - do you know from where?
Did you go with a multi angel og straight angel shockwave helix?
My summer project is wildchild kit and mountain mod tank cowling.
Frostbite
TY 4 Stroke God
TT, I'll ask my dad exactly where in Norway. I know I have heard the name of the town or area but that was many years ago.
I plan to do a rider forward mod as well. But mine won't be a Wildchiild kit it will be a Kachess special. I ordered a new front mount turbo (for my under tunnel exhaust) Boss high rise seat with a LED rear tail light. I also have a Holz lightweight brake assembly to install. It saves 2 lbs for $50 US. That's a heck of a deal on weight loss.
Thanks for the help.
Frosty
I plan to do a rider forward mod as well. But mine won't be a Wildchiild kit it will be a Kachess special. I ordered a new front mount turbo (for my under tunnel exhaust) Boss high rise seat with a LED rear tail light. I also have a Holz lightweight brake assembly to install. It saves 2 lbs for $50 US. That's a heck of a deal on weight loss.
Thanks for the help.
Frosty
TT
TY 4 Stroke Master
Lightened up the tips today -and changed secondary spring - finally seeing top rpm and good engament rpm - I love it!!!!!!!!!! 
Just need to wrap it from 60 to 70 or 80 degrees. The back shift was terrible with the softer spring in the secondary with 60 degrees wrap.
Frosty - i bought doo_man's shockwave - can't wait to get that thing in the secondary.
Just need to wrap it from 60 to 70 or 80 degrees. The back shift was terrible with the softer spring in the secondary with 60 degrees wrap.Frosty - i bought doo_man's shockwave - can't wait to get that thing in the secondary.
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tundra
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Frosty's keep us updated. 2.5 is on the way for me too.
But... i dont have any difference in performance with filter kit between 9800 and 10400 RPM. Its sound different, but pull the same.
But... i dont have any difference in performance with filter kit between 9800 and 10400 RPM. Its sound different, but pull the same.
