• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

2003 Rx1 coolant line clamp replacement

Ryandl0

Newbie
Joined
Oct 4, 2022
Messages
5
Age
52
Location
Hastings, MN
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2003 RX1
2001 600SXR
I have a 2003 RX1 and the clamp that holds the coolant line on to the waterpump in the front left side of the engine is broken so I took the line off and put a new clamp on the hose but I cannot get the hose back on because there is absolutly no room to get your hands in there to get a good grasp on the hose to put it back on. Any tricks? I already have the airbox, battery holder, etc removed.
 

Are you referring to this hose and clamp?

Hose1.JPG
Hose2.JPG


If you used a similar clamp, I slid the clamp down the hose (ie out of the way) so I could slide the hose onto the tube end. Once in place, I then used a long needle nose pliers to compress clamp and then slide the clamp up towards the end of the hose and into place. There was just enough room for me to fit the needle nose pliers in that hole while still compressing the clamp.
 
After reviewing the first picture, I noticed the new rivets on the belt guard/protective plate and that jogged my memory where I did remove that aluminum plate to have better access to the hose and clamp.
 
I'll get a couple pictures when I get home. pretty sure it connects here.

Waterpump.PNG
 
Last edited:
Here are some more pictures
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6338.jpg
    IMG_6338.jpg
    66.7 KB · Views: 100
  • IMG_6339.jpg
    IMG_6339.jpg
    69.7 KB · Views: 105
  • IMG_6340.jpg
    IMG_6340.jpg
    77.5 KB · Views: 106
In order to gain a better reach, you might have to remove the front bumper, front nose cover, the two pivot arms and the steering rod. I recently removed all of that stuff on my RX-1 and 08 Apex to replace a steering rod that was contributing to the steering sloppiness as well as to replace bushings and repack the roller cage bearings due to mileage and recall how it really opened up that area down there. Depending on your mileage, might not be a bad time to go thru the bushings and inspect/replace while you're at it.
 
Update if anyone runs into this. Drill out the 10 or so rivets for the belly pan, opens the entire bottom of the sled and the coolant lines are very accessible. Takes like 10 minutes. Thanks
 


Back
Top