BA
Extreme
- Joined
- Jan 11, 2005
- Messages
- 79
big ry,
one thing I think everyone will agree with is the stock carbides are junk, especially after several hundred miles. I was actually missing the carbide (not the wearbar) on one side when I changed them. put on 6" shapers - of course it was still hard to turn.
the skis are not all the same -do a search on keel and you should find an old post of mine that calls out the different keel heights.
Once I put the ski-doo mtns on, I can make continual tight s curves from one side of the trail to the other @ 25mph with much lower steering effort. The stock ski's load up unless you're on extremely firm trails. Then the whole sled is riding on the bottom of the keel.
certainly get your front spring off of full hard. full soft or one step up.
make sure the center spring is on full hard.
one thing I think everyone will agree with is the stock carbides are junk, especially after several hundred miles. I was actually missing the carbide (not the wearbar) on one side when I changed them. put on 6" shapers - of course it was still hard to turn.
the skis are not all the same -do a search on keel and you should find an old post of mine that calls out the different keel heights.
Once I put the ski-doo mtns on, I can make continual tight s curves from one side of the trail to the other @ 25mph with much lower steering effort. The stock ski's load up unless you're on extremely firm trails. Then the whole sled is riding on the bottom of the keel.
certainly get your front spring off of full hard. full soft or one step up.
make sure the center spring is on full hard.
big_ry_ry
Expert
Carbides
I do not have a studded track. There is only 400 miles on the machine. This year was horrible riding season so there is not to much wear and tear on the snowmobile. I looked at the carbides and they are not that worn out. This is my first Touring sled and this is one of two things I am not happy with so I want to be able to turn next year so I want to change this OEM carbides, just seeing who has had some success.
I do not have a studded track. There is only 400 miles on the machine. This year was horrible riding season so there is not to much wear and tear on the snowmobile. I looked at the carbides and they are not that worn out. This is my first Touring sled and this is one of two things I am not happy with so I want to be able to turn next year so I want to change this OEM carbides, just seeing who has had some success.
maddogjeff
Expert
The first thing I did when I took delivery of my sled is replace the skegs that came with it. They're junk. Get at least 6" carbides, Woodys or better yet Bergstroms.
big_ry_ry
Expert
carbides
What is the OEM Length, I was going to do that but my buddy convinced me that the original would be fine for a few years and I quess he was wrong
What is the OEM Length, I was going to do that but my buddy convinced me that the original would be fine for a few years and I quess he was wrong
twomorestrokes
TY 4 Stroke God
My Vector came with 3.5" carbides. I think they just do that so they can say that they come with them. They can't be serious...
big_ry_ry
Expert
Carbides
I did not realize they were that short, when i checked them the other day I was on a trail..
I did not realize they were that short, when i checked them the other day I was on a trail..
big_ry_ry
Expert
Carbides
Just reviving htis post from the dead, I am going to buy some cardbides in 2 weeks and from what people have been PMing me is that an 8" single woody was working for them and making the front shocks soft. Any other opions on this let me know thanks for the info!!!!!
Just reviving htis post from the dead, I am going to buy some cardbides in 2 weeks and from what people have been PMing me is that an 8" single woody was working for them and making the front shocks soft. Any other opions on this let me know thanks for the info!!!!!
Shivesy
Expert
big_ry_ry
Expert
skegs
I emailed scott bergstrom and I have ordered a set of 8" triple point with the shims and the ski protectors. I think with the weight of the snowmobile plus the weight of two people on a 144" track i went to the 8" instead of the six.
From what everyone is telling me now and from what i have read this is the way to go. I did not even know about his website or products untill two days ago so I'm pretty pumped to be able to actually turn.
I emailed scott bergstrom and I have ordered a set of 8" triple point with the shims and the ski protectors. I think with the weight of the snowmobile plus the weight of two people on a 144" track i went to the 8" instead of the six.
From what everyone is telling me now and from what i have read this is the way to go. I did not even know about his website or products untill two days ago so I'm pretty pumped to be able to actually turn.
rage man
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Bergstom Triple points
towing
Expert
i put more than 4000 miles on a set of bergstrom 6 " triple point last season and i am really satisfied. The big difference with all other stuff that i tried before is that they stay sharp and still steer on hard ice all season long, not only the first 500 miles. It is a serious advantage with our trail condition here... may icy curves...
As for the ski shim, it work well for me on hard packed trail but not on fresh snow. I put back an aftermarket front ski corrector that i had before and it was great. The steering effort was greatly reduce also...
A very good product, expensive but it worth the price for me
Bye
Alain
As for the ski shim, it work well for me on hard packed trail but not on fresh snow. I put back an aftermarket front ski corrector that i had before and it was great. The steering effort was greatly reduce also...
A very good product, expensive but it worth the price for me
Bye
Alain
big_ry_ry
Expert
Cardbide
Well down here it does not snow that often lately and i have not seen unpacked snow in two years. How did it act in deep snow? Im just trying to get more pressure on the cardbide, this sled does not turn to well. Do you have the TF model for the venture?
Well down here it does not snow that often lately and i have not seen unpacked snow in two years. How did it act in deep snow? Im just trying to get more pressure on the cardbide, this sled does not turn to well. Do you have the TF model for the venture?
i'm seeing this a little late, but from what you were saying 'bout the 8" carbides you should be set. these ventures are hard steering with the 144 pushing them. right after i bought (about 100 miles) the sled i put on 8" woodies and the plowing stopped, but you'll still need some effort to turn until you get the machine moving. as far as running in deep snow i'm not sure what you consider deep. the wife and i do a bit of off trailing with snow in the 2-4 ft. range and the machine floats a lot better than my 121(it'll take off from a stop without trenching), steers descent through the trees, but could use some wider skis to keep the front end up better.
For BA,
Sorry I missed your question earlier in the thread with regards to mounting the precision ski rubbers.
First of all, on the precision ski itself, I ground down the metal shim inserts on either side of the precision ski mounting bracket, so they would fit the Yamaha spindle perfectly.
Regarding the ski rubbers, use both.
You need to modify the ski-doo rubber.
Trim (cut and/or grind flat the "V" to the bottom center of the "V") so the ski-doo "V" rubber is now flat on the "front" or forward ----> side of the rubber.
Then, trim the rear <----- side of the "V" rubber.
This is important: Leave the rear side of the "V" rubber 1/4" higher than the front now flat part of the rubber.
You now have a rear "1/4 inch step" or shim built-in to the rear part of the ski-doo rubber.
Place the ski-doo rubber into the precision ski slot for which it was made.
Rubber shim or step is placed to the rear<------ of the rubber slot. Toward the rear of the ski.
Then use the Yamaha rubber normally. The Yamaha rubber sits on top of the precision rubber.
You may need another person to help to squeese the rubber down so you are able to bolt the ski to the spindle.
It's not a hard fit to squeeeze, or depress the rubber, it just helps with another set of hands.
Voila! Built in shim, without having to modify any Yamaha components.
It works really well.
With the ski's bolted on to the sled, place the ski's on the garage floor.
You should be able to see the effect of the rear shim. The front of the carbides will be slightly raised off the garage floor.
This set-up provides the right amount of "rear bite" that improves overall handling qualities in a variety of snow conditions, and also "aid's" in reducing the effect of darting.
Hope this helps!
Again, sorry for missing the original question.
Sorry I missed your question earlier in the thread with regards to mounting the precision ski rubbers.
First of all, on the precision ski itself, I ground down the metal shim inserts on either side of the precision ski mounting bracket, so they would fit the Yamaha spindle perfectly.
Regarding the ski rubbers, use both.
You need to modify the ski-doo rubber.
Trim (cut and/or grind flat the "V" to the bottom center of the "V") so the ski-doo "V" rubber is now flat on the "front" or forward ----> side of the rubber.
Then, trim the rear <----- side of the "V" rubber.
This is important: Leave the rear side of the "V" rubber 1/4" higher than the front now flat part of the rubber.
You now have a rear "1/4 inch step" or shim built-in to the rear part of the ski-doo rubber.
Place the ski-doo rubber into the precision ski slot for which it was made.
Rubber shim or step is placed to the rear<------ of the rubber slot. Toward the rear of the ski.
Then use the Yamaha rubber normally. The Yamaha rubber sits on top of the precision rubber.
You may need another person to help to squeese the rubber down so you are able to bolt the ski to the spindle.
It's not a hard fit to squeeeze, or depress the rubber, it just helps with another set of hands.
Voila! Built in shim, without having to modify any Yamaha components.
It works really well.
With the ski's bolted on to the sled, place the ski's on the garage floor.
You should be able to see the effect of the rear shim. The front of the carbides will be slightly raised off the garage floor.
This set-up provides the right amount of "rear bite" that improves overall handling qualities in a variety of snow conditions, and also "aid's" in reducing the effect of darting.
Hope this helps!
Again, sorry for missing the original question.
