classrider
Newbie
This weekend I was out riding, taking advantage to the real MN winter. After about 60 miles, I took a break and turned off the sled. When I was ready to proceed, I turned the ignition over and it was dead. Dead as a door nail, no relay or solenoid click, nothing. I opened the hood, took a look, and fiddled with the key. Finally turned over and ran for a short period of time and died abruptly (every thing dead - lights, gauges... just dead). Again I fiddled with the switch with mixed results and abruptly shutting down. The temp gauge was 180 degrees, not overly hot. I remembered the TORS and bypassed the wires off to the side of the carbs, overriding the TORS. Same reaction. I finally got it running (by doing nothing but continuing to try the ignition switch). I proceeded on the quickest trail home. While in route, the ignition would abruptly shut down and everything would momentarily die and then continue running. This maybe happened 20 times in the 40 mile trip back (could not correlate interruptions to bumps, steering, fast, slow, or anything notable - just random). Sort of like if you would hit the kill switch momentarily. When I got home, I researched TY and checked all the common areas for an electrical shorts with no luck yet. I can not get it to kill by trying to aggravate the various wiring, etc. I can not see any physically damaged wires. Anyone have any additionally thoughts what I might look for or check? Thanks
buddah
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There's a 30amp fuse somewhere out in the nose..........I'd have to go look to remember exactly where.....and not until tomorrow..........when that fuse goes it's the same sort of reaction as if the kill sw is depressed........nothing works. Check there for a loose connection?
YammyRX1
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Go over all the wires looking for burn marks where they have shorted against metal. Sounds just like the problem my friend had and he found two bad wires.
grader
TY 4 Stroke Master
start by looking at the key switch, since that is what you played with to make it work. check wire harnes at front right of sled where it runs under tool box, might be rubbing on frame.
grader said:
X's 2 sound like ignition that's what you were messing with when you got it started (loose wire,bad wire,bad switch) hope this helps
Bigblue1
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Apex SE
Fuse might have gotten some moisture. Same ting happened to a buddy. It was the 30A fuse.
thrasher
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30 amp fuse is under the air box on the oil tank side. The fuse towards the front is the one to check, the other one is a spare. I would also check your battery with a digital multimeter, should be 12.8 volts fully charged. If low check how much charging voltage it's getting, should be at least 14 Volts. You can use the booster leads to check this at 5000 rpm. Problem could be the stator if charging voltage is low. If all is good, check wires for rub through. I'm in the process as we speak in having the stator replaced in my Vector. I've just been through all these tests myself.
classrider
Newbie
still looking...
of course when you have it torn down in the garage, it starts every time.. 50 tries, 50 starts. thanks for the inputs... continuing the search for probable shorts and plan to ohm out the ground contacts, fuses and charging... intermittent electrical issues always crop up when you least expect.
of course when you have it torn down in the garage, it starts every time.. 50 tries, 50 starts. thanks for the inputs... continuing the search for probable shorts and plan to ohm out the ground contacts, fuses and charging... intermittent electrical issues always crop up when you least expect.
Indy
TY 4 Stroke God
i had a similiar problem, couldnt find a bad wire, changed syleniod, ignition switch, fuses of course, had to use a starter button to start. I ended up grounding the sylenoid to the frame, problem solved.
Honk
TY 4 Stroke Master
I had same thing a week ago,it turned out to be the batt cable. They were both on as tight as I could get it with a screwdriver, but still wasn't working right. Put a wrench on it and no probs since.A couple years ago I had a similar prob, and found out that there was a 15amp fuse installed in mine upfront. I could not find a prob,but dealer found it. They installed a 30 and not a prob since. So it came from factory with a 15 i guess?
