JumpinJackFlash
Newbie
I have ridden my 2005 RX1 2,900 miles. Recently, I was told my suspenion needs all the bushings, and spacers replaced!!! I have heard that this pre-mature suspension failure was a problem. Seeing is believing!!! What amount of mile have you put on your 2005 RX1? And what pre-mature suspension wear & tear have you experienced?
Bushings and spacers on W-arm, RA cable and boot, 1 idler wheel, and broken W arm this last weekend. 4,000 miles.
Sodes
Extreme
05 RX-1 1200 miles
I just finished putting my sleds to sleep for the summer. They will be stored in an enclosed trailer outside so I clean every nut and bolt, drain fuel(float bowels), fog, and I removed the skid and discovered dried and worn bushings in the front and dry, but only slightly dry in the rear of the skid. I can't understand why they didn't put zerks on this skid. According to the dealer the bushings and collars ($60.00) are part of normal annual maintenance........pain in the #*$&@!!!
Sodes
I just finished putting my sleds to sleep for the summer. They will be stored in an enclosed trailer outside so I clean every nut and bolt, drain fuel(float bowels), fog, and I removed the skid and discovered dried and worn bushings in the front and dry, but only slightly dry in the rear of the skid. I can't understand why they didn't put zerks on this skid. According to the dealer the bushings and collars ($60.00) are part of normal annual maintenance........pain in the #*$&@!!!
Sodes
RX1-er-2005
Expert
I have 4900kms on mine and rails are shot...1 idler wheel broke right off and the other one is barely hanging on (rear inner) Bushings replaced at 2400kms,at that point I zerted all pivot points 7 in all...
The other issue I have is that my track is shot...it has blisters on one side only,on the inside drive between the cogs throtle side...I have no studs and I'm not a aggresive driver,does anybody else have track problems??? this is on a 2005 121" RX1-ER
My front "A" arm is also showing sings of STRESS cracks...I think its to weak.
I was looking at the "06" on the weekend at a local show and the rails where revised,reinforced with plate on both sides of the rails at rear exactly wear mine broke???
The other issue I have is that my track is shot...it has blisters on one side only,on the inside drive between the cogs throtle side...I have no studs and I'm not a aggresive driver,does anybody else have track problems??? this is on a 2005 121" RX1-ER
My front "A" arm is also showing sings of STRESS cracks...I think its to weak.
I was looking at the "06" on the weekend at a local show and the rails where revised,reinforced with plate on both sides of the rails at rear exactly wear mine broke???
Silverbullet
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
You gotta love first year equipment............ 
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
I've had the same problems as the rest of you.
- All bushings replaced at least once (grease fittings added now so that should be fixed).
- Cracked pivot arms and the third one is showing early signs of fatigue.
- Cracked slide rails at middle idlers - but still holding together.
- Track is totally shot. It started looking a little rough around 5000 kms (I blame most of the early wear on icy conditions around here).
I am an aggressive rider but I'm not into big air. I do a lot of high speed cornering, hard acceleration and hard braking - even on fairly rough trails.
I've never broken any suspension components on my previous sleds (non-Yamaha) and rode them just as hard and for even more miles.
My previous sleds always had engine, clutch, and chaincase problems. It's nice to have a solid drivetrain and I figure suspensions can be strengthened fairly easily (even if Yamaha won't do it).
- All bushings replaced at least once (grease fittings added now so that should be fixed).
- Cracked pivot arms and the third one is showing early signs of fatigue.
- Cracked slide rails at middle idlers - but still holding together.
- Track is totally shot. It started looking a little rough around 5000 kms (I blame most of the early wear on icy conditions around here).
I am an aggressive rider but I'm not into big air. I do a lot of high speed cornering, hard acceleration and hard braking - even on fairly rough trails.
I've never broken any suspension components on my previous sleds (non-Yamaha) and rode them just as hard and for even more miles.
My previous sleds always had engine, clutch, and chaincase problems. It's nice to have a solid drivetrain and I figure suspensions can be strengthened fairly easily (even if Yamaha won't do it).
Red2003
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Almost RX1,
I think the weight of the Yamahas really works against them in the suspension dept. All that weight bouncing up and down is bound to break stuff if you ride hard enough. Are you bottoming the suspension? I have found that if you bottom it, even once it starts to tear stuff apart. Tough to get a decent ride and still have enough travel in reserve for the big stuff on these heavy machines.
I think the weight of the Yamahas really works against them in the suspension dept. All that weight bouncing up and down is bound to break stuff if you ride hard enough. Are you bottoming the suspension? I have found that if you bottom it, even once it starts to tear stuff apart. Tough to get a decent ride and still have enough travel in reserve for the big stuff on these heavy machines.
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
Red, I always try to set my sleds up so they don't bottom out with my riding style.
With my 240ish lbs ready to ride (I'm ~215 lbs), even with the spring in the second c-clip and 7th position (the spring kept on shortening) it still bottomed out every now and then (less so if I had the RA on the stiffeer settings). The heavy spring was backordered from pretty much when I bought the sled so that wasn't an option.
When the second arm was installed I also managed to get and install the heavy spring. Since then there has been very little bottoming out.
The second arm lasted fewer miles than the first one even though there was less bottoming out - so that doesn't seem to be the issue here. About 3200 kms of riding on the second arm was on saddle bag trips. I figure I had a good 30 lbs including my saddle bags so we're now at 270 lbs. On top of that, when cruising 450-600 kms per day, I'd estimate 50 lbs of ice builds up in the tunnel. Now the suspension is dealing with about 320 lbs on the seat. I did crank up the heavy spring a little on the trip to minimize the bottoming (c-clip in the second position, adjuster in #3 while on the trip - adjuster on #1 normally).
The third arm has only been installed for 900 local (fairly aggressive) kms and the paint has already flaked away where the first two eventually cracked (seems to take about 4000-5000 kms of me riding).
As far as ride quality - with the heavy spring and my weight this mono-shock suspension rides very, very well. No bottoming out, very good on the stutter bumps, etc. It "feels" like it can handle anything I can dish out.
With my 240ish lbs ready to ride (I'm ~215 lbs), even with the spring in the second c-clip and 7th position (the spring kept on shortening) it still bottomed out every now and then (less so if I had the RA on the stiffeer settings). The heavy spring was backordered from pretty much when I bought the sled so that wasn't an option.
When the second arm was installed I also managed to get and install the heavy spring. Since then there has been very little bottoming out.
The second arm lasted fewer miles than the first one even though there was less bottoming out - so that doesn't seem to be the issue here. About 3200 kms of riding on the second arm was on saddle bag trips. I figure I had a good 30 lbs including my saddle bags so we're now at 270 lbs. On top of that, when cruising 450-600 kms per day, I'd estimate 50 lbs of ice builds up in the tunnel. Now the suspension is dealing with about 320 lbs on the seat. I did crank up the heavy spring a little on the trip to minimize the bottoming (c-clip in the second position, adjuster in #3 while on the trip - adjuster on #1 normally).
The third arm has only been installed for 900 local (fairly aggressive) kms and the paint has already flaked away where the first two eventually cracked (seems to take about 4000-5000 kms of me riding).
As far as ride quality - with the heavy spring and my weight this mono-shock suspension rides very, very well. No bottoming out, very good on the stutter bumps, etc. It "feels" like it can handle anything I can dish out.
Broke W arm, bushings and spacers shot, two RA cables and I've only managed 2,600 miles. Absolutely no other issues with this sled.
cobalt650
Pro
If we purchase the YES warranty, will it cover W/A arms and bushings?
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
Personally I don't think the YES warranty is worth it for the w-arm nor bushings.
During the summer (unless Yamaha offers a stronger arm) I plan to very substantially reinforce my w-arm. I don't want any downtime next year due to this. I figure with a strong w-arm and reinforced slide rails I should be good for a reliable, high mileage season.
As far as the bushings go, they only cost a few bucks each. If you add grease fittings they should last well (assuming you grease the skid every 1000 miles or less). Changing them is also very easy to. This is the easiest skid I've ever re&re'd. I can do it in about 10 minutes if I push it a little.
On the other hand, the idler wheel bearings can't be changed individually. Up here the wheel assemblies are $68 each. I've gone through at least 3 sets this season. Work that out $68x6 + tax is about $500 per set x 3 sets = $1500 in idlers. Yikes!!
BTW, I just very carefully inspected my new w-arm (really they are called pivot arms now...).
There is a very small crack that has just made it all the way through again. It's about 0.005" long on the back side and about 0.250" long on the weld side. This is only after 900 kms. Right on track...(4000 kms = 2500 miles).
During the summer (unless Yamaha offers a stronger arm) I plan to very substantially reinforce my w-arm. I don't want any downtime next year due to this. I figure with a strong w-arm and reinforced slide rails I should be good for a reliable, high mileage season.
As far as the bushings go, they only cost a few bucks each. If you add grease fittings they should last well (assuming you grease the skid every 1000 miles or less). Changing them is also very easy to. This is the easiest skid I've ever re&re'd. I can do it in about 10 minutes if I push it a little.
On the other hand, the idler wheel bearings can't be changed individually. Up here the wheel assemblies are $68 each. I've gone through at least 3 sets this season. Work that out $68x6 + tax is about $500 per set x 3 sets = $1500 in idlers. Yikes!!
BTW, I just very carefully inspected my new w-arm (really they are called pivot arms now...).
There is a very small crack that has just made it all the way through again. It's about 0.005" long on the back side and about 0.250" long on the weld side. This is only after 900 kms. Right on track...(4000 kms = 2500 miles).
Sodes
Extreme
Idler bearing greasing
In addition to a sled-head I own a Honda Valkrie, 1500cc flat six and the bearings wear prematurly for some reason. The quick fix has been a grease needle that pumps a small amount of gease into the sealed bearing (rubber seal). This all but solved the problem and many guys do it as part of regular mainenance. I tried on the idler whhels and bent the needle, but I thing if you were to remove or take the bolts out you may have better luck. 500.00 for wheels and I'll sell the sled!!!
Sodes
In addition to a sled-head I own a Honda Valkrie, 1500cc flat six and the bearings wear prematurly for some reason. The quick fix has been a grease needle that pumps a small amount of gease into the sealed bearing (rubber seal). This all but solved the problem and many guys do it as part of regular mainenance. I tried on the idler whhels and bent the needle, but I thing if you were to remove or take the bolts out you may have better luck. 500.00 for wheels and I'll sell the sled!!!
Sodes
favarcat
Expert
I hope the '06 suspensions are more durable. I'm trading my '04 F7 with 8,225 miles on it so far, and the only thing I had to replace was one idler wheel with bearing and it was $18. Are all Yamaha parts more expensive? I'm really excited about riding the new '06 Attak next year, but I don't like reading things like this.
It would be a sad day when people think an AC is more durable than a Yamy!!!!
RX1-er-2005
Expert
My only concern with all these problems is...will YAMAHA stand behind there product and replace all defective parts and upgrade us to "06" specs.IMO we paid a premium price for our sled and I don't think we should be the cowboys and have to pay for poor engineering...
My sled is at my dealer as were speaking,I haven't heard back on what YAMAHA will do for me.Has anyone had feedback from dealers on what is covered or will be updated.
I'd really appreciate your response guy's...is it just me being to demanding,I bought a YAM because of a good after sales service (warranty) What can I expect from YAMAHA?
My sled is at my dealer as were speaking,I haven't heard back on what YAMAHA will do for me.Has anyone had feedback from dealers on what is covered or will be updated.
I'd really appreciate your response guy's...is it just me being to demanding,I bought a YAM because of a good after sales service (warranty) What can I expect from YAMAHA?