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2006 VKPro Ratcheting


Well the drive axle is out and headed to the shop for sprocket installation today. The entire chaincase had to come off to get the axle out, but it was not hard to do. Literally 4x bolts once the cover and guts were out. There are a lot of spacers, shims and washers in there, hopefully I can recall reassy order... Parts fiche is on the bench just in case.

The drive sprockets have no signs of melting or slipping on them, All gears in the chain case look to be in good shape as well as the chain. One thing I did notice is the chain did look to be a little looser than I would like and that is possibly the source of some of the ratcheting. I will pay particularly close attention to that on reassembly, going finger tight and back a half turn.
 
Rough sight lol. Hopefully get the drive axle back next week with the anti-ratchets on.
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Jack_Shaft said:
Well the drive axle is out and headed to the shop for sprocket installation today. The entire chaincase had to come off to get the axle out, but it was not hard to do. Literally 4x bolts once the cover and guts were out. There are a lot of spacers, shims and washers in there, hopefully I can recall reassy order... Parts fiche is on the bench just in case.

The drive sprockets have no signs of melting or slipping on them, All gears in the chain case look to be in good shape as well as the chain. One thing I did notice is the chain did look to be a little looser than I would like and that is possibly the source of some of the ratcheting. I will pay particularly close attention to that on reassembly, going finger tight and back a half turn.
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Chain maybe stretched in gear box from heavy hauling.
 
yamrx1 said:
Chain maybe stretched in gear box from heavy hauling.
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Have you seen this in the VKPro? Is it common on the island?

The only heavy hauling it has done is some personal trail grooming over the past 2 years. The chain isn't stiff or showing signs of wear, no metal filings in the bottom of the case on disassembly. I will pay close attention to what the chain looks like in the case upon re-assembly. The tensioner has about an inch of thread left on the adjuster so it should be able to deal with plenty of slack yet. If it looks loose I will pick-up a new or good used chain.
 
Jack_Shaft said:
Have you seen this in the VKPro? Is it common on the island?

The only heavy hauling it has done is some personal trail grooming over the past 2 years. The chain isn't stiff or showing signs of wear, no metal filings in the bottom of the case on disassembly. I will pay close attention to what the chain looks like in the case upon re-assembly. The tensioner has about an inch of thread left on the adjuster so it should be able to deal with plenty of slack yet. If it looks loose I will pick-up a new or good used chain.
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Adjust chain by the book ,you need the slack taken out of the chain before you adjust move secondary by hand to take up slack then adjust book will explain it
 
yamrx1 said:
Adjust chain by the book ,you need the slack taken out of the chain before you adjust move secondary by hand to take up slack then adjust book will explain it
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There is nothing special in the service manual about the adjustment, just the same as I always did:

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Chaincase is back in, these are great to work on, even the shifter fork just fell into place without too much trouble. All brgs are good, I serviced the driveaxle brg with a grease needle even though it was still good, jackshaft brg was nice and tight. I had one "oh crap" moment when the gear oil dumped out onto the floor (I thought I damaged the lower output seal on reassy) but it turns out I had the drain plug left out o_O

Quick fix and refill and we were in business. Chain flows nicely/smoothly and I cannot see any gear tooth damage, chain has been tightened to spec and reverse engages easily. Hopefully I'll get the rear skid back in there some night this week and clear out the service bay; if memory serves me right it's front arm, rear arm, then middle arm (forward shock mount) for the order.
 
If you put a ratchet strap in your skid so you can compress it it helps to line up the holes when putting the skid back in. Better than fighting it by hand.
 
sxr70001 said:
If you put a ratchet strap in your skid so you can compress it it helps to line up the holes when putting the skid back in. Better than fighting it by hand.
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Yes I believe that's what I did last time, we have to do that with the Skandic/Expedition skids everytime too.

I find the Yamaha ProAction front torque arm bolts are very far forward in the tunnel and a bit hard to get at and line up. The side panels are removed currently so getting in there with an extension is not so bad now once the bolts are in place.
 
Skid is back in, everything is greased and the battery is topped up. The anti-ratchets seem to be on there well and lining up nicely in the track windows. Hopefully this move, combined with the corrected chain tension, will solve my ratcheting problem.

I was really impressed with the ease of work/maintenance on this thing. Looking forward to a good season of grooming with her this Winter.
 
Good job. Even if you don't find anything really wrong I like the peace of mind that comes from having seen and gone through everything myself.

Hope it works well for you.
 
On the small ride from the shop to the storage area, I did notice some clicking sounds. I am curious if the extro teeth are hitting the front torque arm crossmember or the rail tips. MTF
 
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