rockford99
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Hey guys, newbie here to TY but just love this forum.
I picked up a 2009 Nytro with 9000km's on it and noticed 3mm of up and down play on my primary clutch when lifting it up and down. It feels like it's coming from the shaft and not the clutch itself.
What is the spec for this? I'm worried a bearing is going on the other end and I have a major problem... Let me know your feedback guys.
Thanks
Rockford99
I picked up a 2009 Nytro with 9000km's on it and noticed 3mm of up and down play on my primary clutch when lifting it up and down. It feels like it's coming from the shaft and not the clutch itself.
What is the spec for this? I'm worried a bearing is going on the other end and I have a major problem... Let me know your feedback guys.
Thanks
Rockford99
old man winter
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Are you sure its up and down? They all seem to move back and forward about 3mm which is the cause of the rattle we all hear from the primary. I changed out the primary spring the other day and didn't notice any slop up and down.
canoehead
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It's probably the stub shaft. I wouldn't worry unless it's excessive. As old man winter mentioned that's the cause of the rattle at idle.
rockford99
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canoehead said:It's probably the stub shaft. I wouldn't worry unless it's excessive. As old man winter mentioned that's the cause of the rattle at idle.
Hey guys, thanks for the quick response. No the movement is up and down, and it's not the clutch itself. it's coming from the shaft. I'm not familiar with what's on the other end of the drive shaft but I'm sure that means an engine pull and open her up to change this bearing it that's the issue??? tks
canoehead
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Actually it's not an engine pull, just a clutch pull. The stub shaft is held in by I believe 4 bolts and comes out as an assembly. Many guys on this site have pulled it to try and get rid of the rattle. It basically consists of shaft, bearing and gear. Not a biggy!!
sorenson1610
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There is a bearing right behind the clutch that if it's bad or going bad will cause it to wobble. You need to pull the clutch to see what s going. Mine had the seal completely gone along with half of the ball bearings. It wobbled pretty good but ran for a long time before actually getti g bad enough to be noticeable. It's a real easy fix, 4 bolts and a slide hammer to get it out. Comes as an assembly for around $360 something.
Pull the clutch first to check it out
Pull the clutch first to check it out
rockford99
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sorenson1610 said:There is a bearing right behind the clutch that if it's bad or going bad will cause it to wobble. You need to pull the clutch to see what s going. Mine had the seal completely gone along with half of the ball bearings. It wobbled pretty good but ran for a long time before actually getti g bad enough to be noticeable. It's a real easy fix, 4 bolts and a slide hammer to get it out. Comes as an assembly for around $360 something.
Pull the clutch first to check it out
Thanks guys, I really appreciate the feedback.!!!!
Cheers

Mountaintech
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I've got a complete stub shaft assembly for sale. Removed from an engine with only 100 miles. PM me if you're interested.
Beenba
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http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=114990
^thats the thread I made to attempt to remove the rattle.
Follow the first few steps and it shows you how to get it out.
It is normal to have some back and forth rotational play (clockwise and counter-clockwise) as this is from the spines, and also the cause of the rattle.
But if you have up and down, I would definitely be replacing that bearing and seal while i in there.
good luck
^thats the thread I made to attempt to remove the rattle.
Follow the first few steps and it shows you how to get it out.
It is normal to have some back and forth rotational play (clockwise and counter-clockwise) as this is from the spines, and also the cause of the rattle.
But if you have up and down, I would definitely be replacing that bearing and seal while i in there.
good luck
Mills
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You don't have to replace the whole stub shaft assembly. Just use the bearing and seal from a 2011 sled because the individual parts are available from '11 on and are identical to your sled. Find a buddy with a press and caliper and you can have it changed out in about an hour.
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