• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

2012 phazer rtx

donkickit

Pro
Joined
Sep 23, 2007
Messages
152
Location
Upstate New York near Albany
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2014 viper ltx se
Changed the oil on my phazer today, big pain in the #*$&@.
While removing the seat the bolts and nuts they screw into stripped. I can find the bolts on Yamaha site but not the nuts they go into. Has anyone else run into this?
 

If it's just the bolts that are stripped, you may be able to just chase the threads in the nuts with a M6 x 1.0 tap so that the new bolts will thread back in. If I remember correctly, the nuts the seat attachment bolts screw into are welded into the seat frame assembly, and if they are truly stripped you may have better luck drilling out the existing inserts and tapping them for an 8mm bolt. I've actually considered leaving the bolts out altogether or drilling the threads out and using some sort of ball lock pin so I could remove the seat easily and get to a hotdogger-type 'cooking device' mounted to the exhaust, but never got around to it.
 
Yeah the nuts are welded right on the back of seat. But they bolt down from a l shaped clamp. I'll post a pic later today. They can definitely be replaced, but not finding them anywhere.
 
my 09' seat bolts are pretty much stripped. My guess is the nuts are fine and that you just need to replace the bolts. Run a new bolt into the seat nuts to be sure. G.B.
 
Ahhh yes, now I see what you're talking about. I have the seat and frame next to me now and I forgot that the nut is in the "L" bracket, I was thinking it was in the seat frame. Those nuts are typically pressed in and spot welded at the same time (the weld is between the nut and "L" bracket, not visible). I'm not sure if you could break it off the "L" bracket/remove it without damaging the bracket, but it could probably be drilled out. I would suggest trying to find a M6 x 1.0 "Rivnut" such as these on Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/Marson-ALC-47386-Ribbed-0-70mm-4-20mm/dp/B002JL1HBE

You would basically have to drill out the existing nut to the specified size for the rivnut insert, then grind off any part of the original nut that is still remaining on the back of the "L" bracket. There is an installation tool available for the rivnuts, but if you're only installing two of them, it's probably not worth buying it, as you can install the rivnut with a nut and bolt. Just use a nut that is large enough for the M6 bolt to slide right through, but small enough that it contacts the entire flange of the rivnut (a 5/16 nut should work for this). Then you thread the bolt into the rivnut so that it is engaging all of the threads and push the rivnut into the hole you're going to mount it in. Now you would need to tighten the bolt against the threads in the rivnut, while making sure the rivnut doesn't spin. Once it starts to tighten up, the serrated/knurled section of the rivnut should keep it in place so you can use the bolt to draw the rivnut up tight against the "L" bracket. Here's a writeup of the process with a diagram that probably makes more sense than what I described!

http://home.btconnect.com/astro-site/pulling_rivnuts.htm

Once it's installed, it will look like this: http://i52.tinypic.com/n6t8v6.jpg

Obviously you could buy the rivnuts from the link to Amazon above, but it's probably worth looking around locally, though you may have trouble finding the M6 x 1.0 size. There is a hardware store here that has them, but only in inch sizes. If nothing else, you could go with 1/4-20 Rivnuts and just get 1/4-20 bolts of the appropriate length. It may sound like a lot of work, but it's really pretty simple. Hopefully this helps!
 
If you go the rivnut route, do not use one without the serrations or a "Key". On dis-assembly, if the riv-nut spins they become a real PITA.
 
New bolts came in today, but the welded nuts shot. So re-taped with 6mm*1 and worked like a charm. Thanks for all the ideas. My plan b was to get stainless bolt and nuts. Didn't need plan b luckily.
 
Good to hear, I'm glad you were able to get it all worked out! Regarding Plan B, a word of caution about using Stainless nuts and bolts together (and you may already know this), Stainless is prone to galling so when you start tightening everything up, it's possible for the material on the nut and the bolt to 'cold weld' themselves together leaving you with a permanently attached fastener. Usually this can be avoided using some anti-seize (or at a minimum, some good grease) on the threads before assembling. Titanium (and a few other metals I can't think of at the moment) are the same way, you just basically don't want to assemble them dry. Anyway, luckily it doesn't sound like you'll need to use Plan B! :)
 


Back
Top