2013 nytro xtx 1.25 handling/suspension settings

[Koke1]

I just picked up a new 2013 Nytro xtx 1.25. I have looked at the faq section to find some tips what settings people prefer for riding style similar to mine with similar weight, but all the info is on the older models. Im guessing Yamaha tweaks their stuff every year, and the 2013 also have the big ski upgrade so im sure its a different animal. Im around 200 lbs and an aggressive rider. What settings do you like? Rear spring, center spring, rear shock dampening setting, front springs. give me some opinions. Thanks!

 

[herndonp]

suspension settings

It depends on your riding style, but I kept a log book with all my settings and only changed them 1 click at a time. I would look at the FAQ's under XTX suspension setting there were some good initial starting points. The machines haven't changed that much sense 2009/10 with the exception of tuner skis in 2013 and shocks. Write down all your initial settings and go from there.

Good luck

Pete

 

[Koke1]

Re: suspension settings

It depends on your riding style, but I kept a log book with all my settings and only changed them 1 click at a time. I would look at the FAQ's under XTX suspension setting there were some good initial starting points. The machines haven't changed that much sense 2009/10 with the exception of tuner skis in 2013 and shocks. Write down all your initial settings and go from there.

Good luck

Pete

Yeah that's the faq I looked at but they were giving fron shock thread measurements that I don't think are the same on the shocks that are on mine. The old xtx's had the piggybacks

 

[pay2play]

X2 on keeping a log. Make small changes and see what works for you. I believe it it's mostly preference. The Nytro is a great sled, but if it doesn't work for you right away, there are a lot of mods that can dial it in for you. I still have some push In the corners that I need to work out on my machine.

 

[raginyamaha]

xtx's never came with a piggyback shock for the front skid shock. No matter what you have, write down where you start and write down every adjustment you make. spend an hour or 2 with the sled getting to know where and how to adjust it so you know where everything is and how it adjusts. Its a little harder adjusting when the skid is full of snow... i just write down in my owners manual the adjustments i make. this helped me alot http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=67200

 

[Koke1]

xtx's never came with a piggyback shock for the front skid shock. No matter what you have, write down where you start and write down every adjustment you make. spend an hour or 2 with the sled getting to know where and how to adjust it so you know where everything is and how it adjusts. Its a little harder adjusting when the skid is full of snow... i just write down in my owners manual the adjustments i make. this helped me alot http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=67200

Im talking about the front end shocks not the front shock on the skid. 2012 xtxs came with piggybacks for sure. I just saw some thread measurements and they didn't make sense when looking at my shocks im assuming because they are different. I was just wondering if there was an aggressive rider around my weight out there that could tell me what they like best and id give it try! Thank you

 

[raginyamaha]

13s came with cheaper non adjustable shocks.

 

[Yamadog]

I used to keep mine on a log then I bought some paper

 

[raginyamaha]

I used to keep mine on a log then I bought some paper

zing!!!

 

[pay2play]

oops, forgot to put the "log" on my list of mods. I'll fix that right away!

 

[stubb111]

front shocks varied 3 different models 2009 (18.25" long) 2010 - up fox float, adjustable piggy back, basic non-adjustable (17.50" long) and the skid shocks are all the same.

nytro is good once you tailor it to your riding style, stand up or sit down will change things up a lot, same with trail or off trail riding. the more info you can give the better.

 

[Koke1]

13s came with cheaper non adjustable shocks.

All front shocks are adjustable atleast for spring compression. These shocks do not have "clickers" so dampening is not adjustable but spring compression is.

 

[raginyamaha]

13s came with cheaper non adjustable shocks.

All front shocks are adjustable atleast for spring compression. These shocks do not have "clickers" so dampening is not adjustable but spring compression is.

i was talking no clickers, smarty pants....

 

[nate007]

Please add your location to your site profile, thanks!

When you say you're an aggressive rider, are you talking off-trail, rough trail, groomed trail, or??

Not sure exactly where you are looking to ride, but I'll assume that you haven't had much seat time if any on it yet? Going on that assumption, I wouldn't get too crazy with changing anything until you have ridden it in the conditions you like the most.
There are a couple little things that I've done to every Nytro I've had, just to get a neutral starting position for the sled.
1. With the sled on a flat concrete surface, look at the portion of the carbide on the ski that is touching the ground. You should make sure that only the rear portion of the carbide is making contact with the concrete. The first thing many people here do is to take the ski rubber that's between the spindle and the ski, and turn it around backwards. This helps to push the rear of the ski down (front upwards) and makes a big difference in controlling darting.
2. Using a tape measure, set your handlebars as straight as you can, and measure the centerline of the skis, accross the front, and across the back. You should be looking to have about 3/8-1/2" toe OUT in the front. This usually has been off when I've bought new sleds, and taking the outer tie rod ends loose and turning them 1/2-1 turn in has set the toe to the range I mentioned.
3. Make sure all of your shocks start out in the center of the adjustment range. Can't remember off the top of my head how many "clicks" there are, but turn them all the way out, all the way in, and then find center.
4. OFT steering re-locater. Makes the sled much easier to steer, and for riders that stand up a lot, it helps with the angle the handlebars rotate as well.
5. Some people change the limiter strap on the skid right away, but if you haven't ridden it yet, I'd say to wait until you can ride it, but this can make a big difference on the ammount of push and steering effort you will experience. They are somewhat of a heavy steering sled to begin with, so for my riding style I like the strap adjusted a little on the loose side to allow the front to come up just enough so the back of my skis barely touch the ground under a full throttle launch.
There's too many little adjustments to try to list them all and make any sense of it, but I'd say to start with what I listed above, and it should at least give you a decent starting point.

 

[Koke1]

Please add your location to your site profile, thanks!

When you say you're an aggressive rider, are you talking off-trail, rough trail, groomed trail, or??

Not sure exactly where you are looking to ride, but I'll assume that you haven't had much seat time if any on it yet? Going on that assumption, I wouldn't get too crazy with changing anything until you have ridden it in the conditions you like the most.
There are a couple little things that I've done to every Nytro I've had, just to get a neutral starting position for the sled.
1. With the sled on a flat concrete surface, look at the portion of the carbide on the ski that is touching the ground. You should make sure that only the rear portion of the carbide is making contact with the concrete. The first thing many people here do is to take the ski rubber that's between the spindle and the ski, and turn it around backwards. This helps to push the rear of the ski down (front upwards) and makes a big difference in controlling darting.
2. Using a tape measure, set your handlebars as straight as you can, and measure the centerline of the skis, accross the front, and across the back. You should be looking to have about 3/8-1/2" toe OUT in the front. This usually has been off when I've bought new sleds, and taking the outer tie rod ends loose and turning them 1/2-1 turn in has set the toe to the range I mentioned.
3. Make sure all of your shocks start out in the center of the adjustment range. Can't remember off the top of my head how many "clicks" there are, but turn them all the way out, all the way in, and then find center.
4. OFT steering re-locater. Makes the sled much easier to steer, and for riders that stand up a lot, it helps with the angle the handlebars rotate as well.
5. Some people change the limiter strap on the skid right away, but if you haven't ridden it yet, I'd say to wait until you can ride it, but this can make a big difference on the ammount of push and steering effort you will experience. They are somewhat of a heavy steering sled to begin with, so for my riding style I like the strap adjusted a little on the loose side to allow the front to come up just enough so the back of my skis barely touch the ground under a full throttle launch.
There's too many little adjustments to try to list them all and make any sense of it, but I'd say to start with what I listed above, and it should at least give you a decent starting point.

Thank you! I didn't mind the sled at all in stock form but Im new to the nytro and decided to play with it a little and see what happens. I backed the springs on the front shocks off between 1/4-1/2 nd inch and backed the front spring on the rear skid off around 3/4 in. I think I liked it the way it was stock better. I think loosening the center shock lowered my ride height and I like to sit higher in the saddle.