2015 LTX-LE Rear Suspension After Revalve

[savageman69]

revalve is worth every penny...the ride is amazing, transfers way better...and it hooks up so much better

 

[SnoNinja]

Other thing that I did this year was switch to the lighter torsion from 16 Cat, and put in Cat dual rate center spring. Even better. Very plush, but still takes the big hits well. I run torsion springs on soft. I am 175 ish with gear. I run limiter all the way out, with transfer blocks removed (shaft is still in). Weight transfer is incredible. Wouldn't suggest this for burning trails because skis don't touch under power, but we are primarily off trail riders and weight transfer is more important. To give you an idea, I can stand on sled in the garage and rock back on the rear suspension and lift the skis off the floor slightly. Finally, I have it pivoting on the center shock. I don't consider my sled a trail sled anymore. It is more of a shorty boondocker and is a lot of fun off trail. Can now pick the front end up at will in deep snow, and trenching has been reduced dramatically. For a 137, it's amazing where I can take this sled.

 

[DigitalFusion]

I dropped all 4 of my shocks off at B-Line for a rework a few hours ago. Should have em tomorrow or Thursday.

SnoNinja, we have similar mods and weigh about the same, but different end goals. I love tight and twisty trails through the woods. Curious if I should just order up the cat springs as well? When I climb on my sled there might be 1/2" of sag at most. I was under the impression that re-valving solved this? Was the vid in this thread with the Cat springs?

 

[SnoNinja]

I dropped all 4 of my shocks off at B-Line for a rework a few hours ago. Should have em tomorrow or Thursday.

SnoNinja, we have similar mods and weigh about the same, but different end goals. I love tight and twisty trails through the woods. Curious if I should just order up the cat springs as well? When I climb on my sled there might be 1/2" of sag at most. I was under the impression that re-valving solved this? Was the vid in this thread with the Cat springs?

No. Video was stock springs. Also, skid is on roller so compression is much softer as only moving one shock. Did demonstrate how much better rebound is though. I didn't gain much sag with revalve, but revalve lets the skid move as both compression and rebound valving were way off. With new springs it actually does sag about 3" when I get on it and bounce it and let it return to a neutral position with me on it. When I fuel the sled, I always burp the air bubble by compressing the rear. I used to have to put a knee on the bumper and really throw my weight at it to squish the skid even a few inches. I even used to ask someone near by to help with squish. With new springs, I can put knee on bumper and compress skid 6" without a ton of effort. Dual rate spring in center gives the sled balance in the bumps as its stiffer than stock (160# v 135#) and coupled so in the big stuff your are using both. I can rail the whoops if I want to and the front of the sled is much lighter. I know this is similar to what Cannondale27 runs. He is set up for burning trails and pounding the bumps, so I know this spring combo works for that as well as it does for an off trail set-up.

 

[DigitalFusion]

all the springs appear to be on back order from Cat

 

[cannondale27]

all the springs appear to be on back order from Cat

I have 2 brand new ones here. Or ask B line.

 

[DigitalFusion]

I have 2 brand new ones here. Or ask B line.

I remember you saying in some other thread that you were buying extras, but IIRC that was the center skid shock springs you have extras of, not the torsion springs?

 

[cannondale27]

I remember you saying in some other thread that you were buying extras, but IIRC that was the center skid shock springs you have extras of, not the torsion springs?

Correct.

 

[Chief Gotta Go]

New to the list . Read thru the revalveing ......I have about 600 miles on a 2015 SR Ltx DX (Turbo) bought new and off the floor in late 2016 ... I weigh about 320 . Using the stock springs set on the high block ( 3 ) for my weight .....thought rear shocks are not to my liking ......chatter bumps a bit stiff but I do bottom out on the big dips .....I have the coil over front shocks . I have done nothing to the stock set up yet but I think it could be better . With my heavy weight and I do have the powder keg storage box and gas tank on the tail . I am one of those that always fiquired the rougher it gets go faster to smooth it out I would classify my self as a Semi aggressive trail rider with a little bit of off trail boon docking ....even thow I am a big guy I will do a lot of standing in the rough ......judging from what I read so far ...sending the shocks in would make an improvement ......but I am concern since you guys are all light weights compared to me .....I am open to recommendations and I will ship out if necessary to improve my ride . I think I can lighten up the springs on the front as I have yet to bottom them in a big dip yet .....I did come off of a 2013 skidoo Back Country x with all the adjustable dampening shocks and R motion ....had that sled dialed in perfectly ....but I had a lot of adjustment to work with ......FYI I moved away from "Bomb Blow apart" I was tired of rebuilding engines every 6000 miles . (Expensive and it sucks ) . SO any heavy Weight shock valving ideas appreciated.

 

[yammitrip1]

No. Video was stock springs. Also, skid is on roller so compression is much softer as only moving one shock. Did demonstrate how much better rebound is though. I didn't gain much sag with revalve, but revalve lets the skid move as both compression and rebound valving were way off. With new springs it actually does sag about 3" when I get on it and bounce it and let it return to a neutral position with me on it. When I fuel the sled, I always burp the air bubble by compressing the rear. I used to have to put a knee on the bumper and really throw my weight at it to squish the skid even a few inches. I even used to ask someone near by to help with squish. With new springs, I can put knee on bumper and compress skid 6" without a ton of effort. Dual rate spring in center gives the sled balance in the bumps as its stiffer than stock (160# v 135#) and coupled so in the big stuff your are using both. I can rail the whoops if I want to and the front of the sled is much lighter. I know this is similar to what Cannondale27 runs. He is set up for burning trails and pounding the bumps, so I know this spring combo works for that as well as it does for an off trail set-up.

I'm 230 dressed, i have exact same set up as you including 16 an newer springs and 160-260 cat dual spring. Still not happy with transfer. I did tighten my straps but only to the point of the track shock was fully extended, when your sled is sitting on the garage floor are your straps tight or are they loose, I want more ski lift but idk if I should let my straps out more. I do have the bar in but no blocks. Lmk plz

 

[SnoNinja]

I'm 230 dressed, i have exact same set up as you including 16 an newer springs and 160-260 cat dual spring. Still not happy with transfer. I did tighten my straps but only to the point of the track shock was fully extended, when your sled is sitting on the garage floor are your straps tight or are they loose, I want more ski lift but idk if I should let my straps out more. I do have the bar in but no blocks. Lmk plz

Im running limiters as long as I can, torsion springs on 1 (soft) and I took out the transfer rod complete so I am uncoupled. Also, I run 2" BC so I get great transfer as that track hooks on just about everything. If you put a bit more preload in center shock spring it will help transfer as well, but it will also increase the nose dive on decel as the sled will teeter totter on center shock.