Some of us have upgraded our rear skid shocks to DSC over the single knob that they came with. This makes accessing the rear clickers a major pain. I recently had my shocks out and sent to Carver Performance for a revalve adjustment. In talking to Mike he mentioned a new end cap that had the clicker on the side versus buried down near the track. I took his suggestion and am giving it a whirl.
I ended up having to bore an access hole in the one idler wheel. I made 2 for good measure. It's not perfectly aligned, but should do the job well enough.
While I had the skid out I added grease to every idler wheel and resecured my shafts. I've battled loose shafts as you can see by the rub marks. The little cross shaft is one thing, but the main shock shaft that is hidden behind the idler really has me kicking myself. I guess I need to be extra mindful of this going forward.
I ended up having to bore an access hole in the one idler wheel. I made 2 for good measure. It's not perfectly aligned, but should do the job well enough.
While I had the skid out I added grease to every idler wheel and resecured my shafts. I've battled loose shafts as you can see by the rub marks. The little cross shaft is one thing, but the main shock shaft that is hidden behind the idler really has me kicking myself. I guess I need to be extra mindful of this going forward.
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You have been riding it TD! Those shafts don't come loose if babying it! Red Loctite and a paint pen to see evidence of movement is best solution along with yearly or midseason and yearly reloctite and torque. Don't be retorquing them unless doing the full clean,Loctite,torque and mark routine. Since Loctite is ruined if you put a wrench to it. Glad the holes worked in idler!
Turtle
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You could try flipping the shock around so the piggyback is on the top to access the clicker easier. I know they came stock with it down, but might be worth a try. I upgraded my SE model to QS3R all around. With mine being an SE model, there is only one relay rod on the rear shock that mounts just below it (the LE model has 2 relay rods running parallel to the shock on either side). So my only option was to mount it with the piggyback above the shock. Been running it that way for 500 miles ... no damage or contact to the piggyback.
I would have thought that the star washer and nylock nut would be sufficient. I may not have torqued properly I guess. The hoes were pretty egged so I filled with JB weld and let it set then redrilled. We'll see how long it holds up. It's captured and under compression so I'm hoping it does and I don't need to buy new rails...
Just get them welded if it doesn't hold
Problem with any skid is if one part fails it stresses out other parts. You should see what I had to do after last weekends ride. Eventually the breaking and loosening will stop. I wonder how much more my skid weighs with all the steel shafts an reinforcements! Heading north for more tomorrow morning though. Can't wait! Trails in Minaqua good?
I haven't reinstalled my skid yet. I ordered the 2016 updated front shock spring. The one with the extended low rate travel (more fine coils) and figured if it makes it next week it will be soon enough. Trails just opened here but it's a bit cold for much riding. I'll take the oldest Grandson out on the Doo at some point as it is 2 up ready.
Hoping we get some more snow so the trails can get humped up and I can do a real test of my revalved shocks and get the clickers set.
Hoping we get some more snow so the trails can get humped up and I can do a real test of my revalved shocks and get the clickers set.
