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2020 SRX LE Overheating (with scratchers)?

BearTrax

Newbie
Joined
May 2, 2016
Messages
5
Age
51
Location
Northern IL
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2016 Yamaha SRViper LTX-LE MPI Turbo
Does anyone here know why my low mileage (2200 mile) 2020 SRX LE would constantly be overheating and approaching limp mode (even after installing scratchers and riding in snowy conditions / sub-20 degree days)? I've had the machine in for service and the tech stated that they were not able to replicate the issue, but each time I cold start the machine it quickly climbs to over 200 degrees. I understand this is a pretty broad question, but I am looking for some magical insights as I think that I have tried just about everything I could think of to rectify this issue. Fluids are all up to factory levels, new air filter, etc.... Please help!
 

These sleds have to have all the air out of the cooling system or they will overheat. Raise the front of the sled and get all the bubbles out. I also use water wetter. Even if the cooling system is properly purged of air these sleds still get hot fast. As long as I am moving and on snow there are no issues but if I stop the heat rises quickly so always shut it down if stopped for more than a minute. Sometimes when starting back up it will be in limp mode for few hundred feet until the coolant starts moving again. Hope this helps. Thinking about getting a radiator or just riding my viper on marginal days.
 
Its either air in the system or a blown head gasket. How long do you let it warm up? It cant sit and idle forever or it will shut down.
 
These sleds have to have all the air out of the cooling system or they will overheat. Raise the front of the sled and get all the bubbles out. I also use water wetter. Even if the cooling system is properly purged of air these sleds still get hot fast. As long as I am moving and on snow there are no issues but if I stop the heat rises quickly so always shut it down if stopped for more than a minute. Sometimes when starting back up it will be in limp mode for few hundred feet until the coolant starts moving again. Hope this helps. Thinking about getting a radiator or just riding my viper on marginal days.
Thanks for this instruction - I have not bled the cooling system of air so I will try that trick to see if I can get a better cooling response from the heat exchanger.
 
Its either air in the system or a blown head gasket. How long do you let it warm up? It cant sit and idle forever or it will shut down.
The last time I attempted to ride the sled was last season. It was a good snow day and around 15 degrees F and the sled would jump up from normal operating temperatures to 200 and climb in under 3-5 minutes.
 
Sounds like air in the system (assuming like previous comment; head gasket is ok, and assuming thermostat is ok)
There are you tube videos where a guy parked the sled up a sharp bank and let it run while letting the air of the bleeder screw. Worth the watch.

I did mine in the shop, and lifted the nose up. It needs to be reasonably high, and I am not talking 8" off the ground. I had mine past my hip. As you fill it - rock the sled back and forth and you will see the coolant settle as the air burps out. It takes a fair bit of time, Be patient.
Hope that helps.
MS
 
From a cold start it should take several several minutes for the sled to get hot. Ive never timed it but it takes a while. It reaches 165-170 and then thermostat opens and temp drops and then takes what feels like forever to get up over 170. This is starting the sled in a 60 degree shop. If your sled quickly gets warm from a cold start then as previously mentioned you likely have a bunch of air in the system. Can be a bit of a pain to get it all out but it will be worth the effort.
 
Don't forget to tighten all hose clamps. Even the ones on the heat exchanges under the gas tank. A coolant leak will let air in the system when sitting cold!
 
I suspect this overheat issue to be a bleeding issue as some came right from the factory improperly bled. My SW is the hardest sled I have ever owned to bleed all the air out of the system.
There also have been a few members that have had the plastic water pump impellor fail and spin inside the pump on the shaft. The impellor failure would def cause the sled to overheat quickly.
On my SW I have changed the impellor to the billet aluminum version from Dasa and I have also installed BOP's aux rad and fan kit.
I no longer have to worry about limp mode when waiting a long time to cross a road and or operating in low snow conditions.


dasa.JPG



Rad 1.JPG
 
Amazing response and information gang! Thank you for all these tips, suggestions for possible upgrades, etc. I have the sled at my Yamaha dealer now as the sled is still covered under the extended warranty. I will try the various fixes mentioned here and will report back with what was found/fixed etc.
 
Amazing response and information gang! Thank you for all these tips, suggestions for possible upgrades, etc. I have the sled at my Yamaha dealer now as the sled is still covered under the extended warranty. I will try the various fixes mentioned here and will report back with what was found/fixed etc.
Have them check thermostat too. Maybe it’s bad.
 


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