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300 mile review

Be sure to "fix" the offset with Dave bar when you tune it. It will need correct offset to not blow belts. I dont think YAM has address the offset issue yet.

Upgrade the Carlisle to the new Timken. You must have got old stock or had that belt a few seasons.

You wont ever want to ride a stock winder again once you tune it. I did not like mine stock at all on tight trail system.

Love the blue brother!
Dan
Dan , whats your offset at now that you reset your stub shaft?did you have to add material like washers?just curious
 

For most people (making an assumption here), the reason to put on a modified (non-stock) muffler would be to gain performance. To gain performance an increase in air flow through engine is required. To increase air flow (and therefore exhaust flow) without an increase in fuel will lean or increase AFR. I don't know how safe the stock fuel map is but as 74Nitro says, if it increases the AFR by .6 to 1 that's probably enough to cause a lean condition that will damage engine.
If the dealer said it was safe, I'd ask him how he knows that? Where is dyno data to show it's safe? IF the muffler doesn't change AFR, that means there is no increase in air flow and then there is no performance gain. What's the point of putting it on except maybe to save some weight?
 
Be sure to "fix" the offset with Dave bar when you tune it. It will need correct offset to not blow belts. I dont think YAM has address the offset issue yet.

Upgrade the Carlisle to the new Timken. You must have got old stock or had that belt a few seasons.

You wont ever want to ride a stock winder again once you tune it. I did not like mine stock at all on tight trail system.

Love the blue brother!
Dan

My '20 was off by at least an 1/8" on off-set....
 
Put a stiffer center spring in it. Makes a big difference. You should research it on here, lots of talk about it.
 
For most people (making an assumption here), the reason to put on a modified (non-stock) muffler would be to gain performance. To gain performance an increase in air flow through engine is required. To increase air flow (and therefore exhaust flow) without an increase in fuel will lean or increase AFR. I don't know how safe the stock fuel map is but as 74Nitro says, if it increases the AFR by .6 to 1 that's probably enough to cause a lean condition that will damage engine.
If the dealer said it was safe, I'd ask him how he knows that? Where is dyno data to show it's safe? IF the muffler doesn't change AFR, that means there is no increase in air flow and then there is no performance gain. What's the point of putting it on except maybe to save some weight?
You can read right on MBRP web site. The race muffler says right there in black and white that tune is required, the trail can that I am running says bolt on and go. I’m not running a free flow race of 3” sandale. I’m sure mbrp has done their homework and not gonna be liable.
 
You can read right on MBRP web site. The race muffler says right there in black and white that tune is required, the trail can that I am running says bolt on and go. I’m not running a free flow race of 3” sandale. I’m sure mbrp has done their homework and not gonna be liable.
I'm not saying they or you are wrong but if they are SURE there is 4 HP gain and they have proven it on a dyno, then I'm sure they would be proud of it and be very willing to send you the dyno data sheet, showing all the data including AFR of stock vs. their trail can?
 
I'm not saying they or you are wrong but if they are SURE there is 4 HP gain and they have proven it on a dyno, then I'm sure they would be proud of it and be very willing to send you the dyno data sheet, showing all the data including AFR of stock vs. their trail can?
I would think if the trail can was making any power he would be bouncing off the rev limiter.
 
I'd just want to see the data. Look closely at things like ambient air temp, humidity, barometric pressure, date, etc. With "only" a CLAIMED 4 HP difference, that could easily be accomplished with colder intake air, drier intake air, higher baro pressure, colder coolant temp, etc, etc.
Sorry, I'm cautious (suspicious) by nature.
 
I would think if the trail can was making any power he would be bouncing off the rev limiter.
It only hit the limiter be for I had it studded with the pipe. It would bounce it once from a dead stop start then pull through to 9-9150 rpm. The next time it sees snow it will Have TD multi map dash flash and all the good stuff with it. I was just surprised that a trail pipe would damage the engine. A high flow race muffler even from mbrp makes 24hp the trail is only 4 and doesn’t say a tune is required to run right on their web site
 
For example, if you checked the stock muffler in August with high humidity and ambient temps, and then you check your new "miracle muffler" in December or January with much lower ambient temps and low humidity in the dyno room, on a 200 HP engine you could very easily see a change of 4 HP and more.
I just like to see the straight-up data, preferably from a neutral 3rd party. Same day, same dyno, same dyno operator, same correction factors, etc, etc.
 
If it is only adding 4hp, then it is most likely fine.
In the online picture, the inlet appears bigger, while the outlet appears to be the same size as stock.
 
If it is only adding 4hp, then it is most likely fine.
In the online picture, the inlet appears bigger, while the outlet appears to be the same size as stock.
Having said that, I would still estimate the AFR would increase up to .5
 
I ran into plenty of 850's last year and most disappear when a winder or thunder cat show up. 850's are not even a challenge and they know it. Hygear makes a dual rate center shock spring that you can order for your weight, nice improvement from stock specially if your a husky boy. you have 300 miles and been on the snow for 5 weeks? thats one day ride.
 


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