favarcat
Expert
With 7500 miles I had some rear suspension maintenance to do. I cracked a rail the end of last year. With no warranty left, I called my dealer and they got Yamaha to replace the rail free of charge. No labor, just the part. Great dealer and company for that.
With the susp. completely in pieces, I decided now is the time to go thru it. I'm replacing all 6 idler wheels and the 2 outer rear axle wheels with black Yamaha spoked accessory wheels. I never had a wheel itself fail, but the bearings in them are going or already bad. Replacing bearings in the 2 upper shaft wheels. Also the bearing in the inner wheel on the rear axle, along with adding a 4th wheel. New hyfax of course. The originals still on it.
The bushings had some wear, but were not too bad. Had one broken on the front arm. I'm replacing all of them though.
The rear suspension arms are getting powder coated satin black right now.
Replacing the drive axle bearing behind the speedo.
Cut the closed track windows out.
I have a loose tunnel protector, so I'm going to just remove them both. I do not stud my sleds anymore.
For about $435, I should be good to 15,000 miles.
I will have to change the front susp. bushings at some point also.
Still much,much cheaper than trading sleds. I used to trade every year for about $1000, then it went to about 4-5,000 every other year to trade.
If you want to keep your sleds for awhile now, it's another good reason to own a 4-stroke.
With the susp. completely in pieces, I decided now is the time to go thru it. I'm replacing all 6 idler wheels and the 2 outer rear axle wheels with black Yamaha spoked accessory wheels. I never had a wheel itself fail, but the bearings in them are going or already bad. Replacing bearings in the 2 upper shaft wheels. Also the bearing in the inner wheel on the rear axle, along with adding a 4th wheel. New hyfax of course. The originals still on it.
The bushings had some wear, but were not too bad. Had one broken on the front arm. I'm replacing all of them though.
The rear suspension arms are getting powder coated satin black right now.
Replacing the drive axle bearing behind the speedo.
Cut the closed track windows out.
I have a loose tunnel protector, so I'm going to just remove them both. I do not stud my sleds anymore.
For about $435, I should be good to 15,000 miles.
I will have to change the front susp. bushings at some point also.
Still much,much cheaper than trading sleds. I used to trade every year for about $1000, then it went to about 4-5,000 every other year to trade.
If you want to keep your sleds for awhile now, it's another good reason to own a 4-stroke.
Attachments
ZR800EFI
Expert
It's your first time replacing any wheels?
And your first time changing the drive shaft bearing?
Nice!
Unfortunately I've had a few bad wheels already, but I'm thinking of adding the 4th wheel to hopefully help keep the track lined up.
And your first time changing the drive shaft bearing?
Nice!
Unfortunately I've had a few bad wheels already, but I'm thinking of adding the 4th wheel to hopefully help keep the track lined up.
mdkuni
TY 4 Stroke Guru
favarcat said:
I would make sure you do these now. I have 8,167 miles on my Apex and tore the front and rear suspension down. Several of the front bushings were shot. There was even wear on the bulkead for the lower arms. Ulmer's bushing kit made everything much tighter, well worth it!
favarcat
Expert
Yes. Our group bought 3 of them in '06. One sled with 6500 miles on it had to replace 2 wheels. Mine and the other one had no bad wheels with 7500 miles on both of them. No other repairs. I did regrease the driveshaft and jackshaft bearings.
mdkuni
TY 4 Stroke Guru
My rails were cracked also. They were cracked on the rail itself between the reinforcements just in front of the rubber stop. It looks like the nut on the small bolt that runs through there came loose. Where were yours cracked?
favarcat
Expert
mdkuni said:
I plan on getting Ulmer's kit either this year or next. When I get the rear back together, I'll check the front. Hoping it looks good for another year.
favarcat
Expert
I only had one that cracked. It cracked where the rear suspension arm mounts.
nyattak
Extreme
'06 Attak. Great sled, 6,500 miles, I don't sweat the small stuff. When your riding and it's 10-15 degrees below 0, the sled takes a real punishment. Check suspension parts, wheels, bearings, slides, the chain case oil, and motor oil before motoring and your good to go. 
stinx
Expert
these sleds really are the balls. Prior to my Attak I would by new evrey year. THis will be my third season on the Attak. I redid all my suspension bushings, added Pilot skis, revalved and resprung the suspension, added a short windshield and re greased the Drive and jack shaft bearings. Total cost was well under $1000, much better than trading plus 3-4000 dollars for a new sled.Next year I will most likely buy new. I plan on keeping my Attak for a spare sled or for the wife to use. Four strokes may seem more expensive to buy, but in the long run its the only way to go
favarcat
Expert
A couple years ago the 4-strokes were more expensive. I just received a free 'Snowmobile Buyers Guide' in the mail with all the sleds with the prices. I can't believe how much the price of sleds have gone up. Yamaha 4-strokes are now about the same price or less as everyone's 2-strokes.
Yamaha Vector = 9,299
Ski-Doo GSX 600sdi = 9,549
Arctic Cat F6 LXR = 9,299
Polaris 600 IQ LX = 9,000
Polaris IQ 4-stoke LX= 9,699
Yamaha Vector = 9,299
Ski-Doo GSX 600sdi = 9,549
Arctic Cat F6 LXR = 9,299
Polaris 600 IQ LX = 9,000
Polaris IQ 4-stoke LX= 9,699
welterracer
TY 4 Stroke God
Ive replaced most of the wheels and or bearings in my sled already.. with only 4300 miles.. and i thought i was doing good..
4 sets of slides.. and all the track clips.. too
4 sets of slides.. and all the track clips.. too
