A few questions.

[Irv]

Just summerizing my Vector the other day and decided to drain the float bowls this year for some reason? (Been 3yrs now with no issues not draining them)

Anyways, I was unable to get the middle carb Allen head bolt out no matter how hard I tried and not wanting to strip it I stopped.

The left and right came out ok, they were tough but I got them out.
Just curious if anyone knows the exact size of that Allen head bolt and what else I can do to get it out?
I beleive my Allen key was very close but I don't believe it was the exact same size I needed?

Also, I plan on replacing the bearings in my skid so I am curious what bearing sizes I need for the 6 smaller idlers and the rear larger idlers plus the two real small low snow wheels?
(I replaced all the idlers in this skid with the newer updated wheels but didn't take note on the bearing sizes that came with them)
Thanks

 

[Redbeard]

Irv, remove the carbs and pull the float bowls. That will give you more room to work on that seized drain screw. Chances are the float bowl gaskets need replaced anyway.

 

[Irv]

Irv, remove the carbs and pull the float bowls. That will give you more room to work on that seized drain screw. Chances are the float bowl gaskets need replaced anyway.

I have never had the carbs off this sled before, and to me it looks rather difficult but I have never really given the idea much thought either.

Is it hard to do, do they come off individually or are they on a rack type of thing?

Thanks Northern

 

[Gone Blue]

Irv, remove the carbs and pull the float bowls. That will give you more room to work on that seized drain screw. Chances are the float bowl gaskets need replaced anyway.

I have never had the carbs off this sled before, and to me it looks rather difficult but I have never really given the idea much thought either.

Is it hard to do, do they come off individually or are they on a rack type of thing?

Thanks Northern

They are a rack. With the airbox off, If you loosen the band clamps on the engine side carb boots, you ran pull out the rack and rotate it up a little bit to get a better shot at the float bowl drain screw. You wont have to disconect anything. G.B.

 

[Redbeard]

Irv, remove the carbs and pull the float bowls. That will give you more room to work on that seized drain screw. Chances are the float bowl gaskets need replaced anyway.

I have never had the carbs off this sled before, and to me it looks rather difficult but I have never really given the idea much thought either.

Is it hard to do, do they come off individually or are they on a rack type of thing?

Thanks Northern

They are a rack. With the airbox off, If you loosen the band clamps on the engine side carb boots, you ran pull out the rack and rotate it up a little bit to get a better shot at the float bowl drain screw. You wont have to disconect anything. G.B.

X2. It's really not bad once you get in there.

 

[blue er]

I don't drain them for storage, best way for moisture ect to get in and seize something up.
i think the bearins in the idler are a 6005 if you got the skid out just look at the seal number right there

 

[Irv]

Irv, remove the carbs and pull the float bowls. That will give you more room to work on that seized drain screw. Chances are the float bowl gaskets need replaced anyway.

I have never had the carbs off this sled before, and to me it looks rather difficult but I have never really given the idea much thought either.

Is it hard to do, do they come off individually or are they on a rack type of thing?

Thanks Northern

They are a rack. With the airbox off, If you loosen the band clamps on the engine side carb boots, you ran pull out the rack and rotate it up a little bit to get a better shot at the float bowl drain screw. You wont have to disconect anything. G.B.

Good to know, thanks GB

You don't happen to know the exact size Allen I need or where I would find that info do you?

 

[Irv]

I don't drain them for storage, best way for moisture ect to get in and seize something up. i think the bearins in the idler are a 6005 if you got the skid out just look at the seal number right there

Not sure why I did it myself Blue but probably because I also decided to remove my battery this year and seeing the carbs right there and hearing of others doing, I guess I thought WTH?

Probably going to regret it, I do somewhat already as I think I just made some more work for myself

Thanks for the bearing sizes.

 

[Grimm]

It's got to be a metric allen wrench...I say get a set of allen sockets that requires the use of a ratchet. It's a lot stronger than using an allen key.

The small idler bearings are 6005, the rears are 6004 and the upper carrier wheel bearings are 6205...can't help you with the small low snow wheels.

 

[MadMax]

Gosh darn it............. I replaced my snow wheel bearings a few years back, but I can't remember off hand what they were................. Either 6004's or 6005's....... Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm Once you take them off you should be able to spot the #. MM.

 

[Port-Parts]

For the bearings 6005s on the 6-130mm idler wheels, 6004s on the rear axle and the low snow wheels.

 

[Dara]

Summerizing?

There's still 3 weeks of great riding here

 

[Irv]

It's got to be a metric allen wrench...I say get a set of allen sockets that requires the use of a ratchet. It's a lot stronger than using an allen key.

The small idler bearings are 6005, the rears are 6004 and the upper carrier wheel bearings are 6205...can't help you with the small low snow wheels.

[/quote]"For the bearings 6005s on the 6-130mm idler wheels, 6004s on the rear axle and the low snow wheels"

Thanks for the info guys

 

[Redbeard]

Remove the float bowl and lightly peck on the screw before you try to loosen it. Sometimes that will break the corrosive bond.

Draining the carbs is a good thing. The ethanol in gasoline is nothing but a water magnet. It only gets worse after the ethanol actually separates from the gasoline within a few months.

 

[Irv]

Remove the float bowl and lightly peck on the screw before you try to loosen it. Sometimes that will break the corrosive bond.

Draining the carbs is a good thing. The ethanol in gasoline is nothing but a water magnet. It only gets worse after the ethanol actually separates from the gasoline within a few months.

What do you mean by "Lightly Peck"? Do you mean clean around the thread/head or do you mean Tap it prior to trying to remove?

I think the corrosion is what made the 2 I did get out difficult and what is probably making it difficult to get the 3rd one out?