Nuge
Newbie
I finally got around to pulling the seat off and getting some pics of that lever/switch on the bottom of the right side exhaust cover. I think it may just be the the same set-up that was on the dash, an on-off valve for the boost signal to the waste gate actuator, but relocated back there. Here are some pics...
This is what the valve looks like glued inside the exhaust cover...
Here is where one end of the tube is connected, as pointed out by the tip of the pen...
Here is where the other end of the tube connects, into the turbo...
This is what the valve looks like glued inside the exhaust cover...
Here is where one end of the tube is connected, as pointed out by the tip of the pen...
Here is where the other end of the tube connects, into the turbo...
mbarryracing
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Nuge,
Where does the hose going to the front toggle switch go to? Does it "T" into the line between the actuator and that rear valve?
My guess is the rear valve (used a fuel petcock) is inteded to completely shut off all boost pressure / signal to the wastegate actuator so as to take the turbo to max boost that the actuator spring will allow before exhaust back pressure unseats the wastegate.
Basically that is to create a "wring it's neck" mode...
BTW, I also see that could use a few FPP updates... that appears to have had NO revisions to it since he built it from Bender Turbo Systems. Including correct clocking of the turbo center section, FPP's flexjoint and V-band clamp exhaust inlet update, and the O2 sensor was installed before the turbo (not recommended due to high back pressure)...
All these are buried in these forums, take your time and so a little searching and reading to bring yourself up to speed on the latest hot setups and tuneups.
Where does the hose going to the front toggle switch go to? Does it "T" into the line between the actuator and that rear valve?
My guess is the rear valve (used a fuel petcock) is inteded to completely shut off all boost pressure / signal to the wastegate actuator so as to take the turbo to max boost that the actuator spring will allow before exhaust back pressure unseats the wastegate.
Basically that is to create a "wring it's neck" mode...
BTW, I also see that could use a few FPP updates... that appears to have had NO revisions to it since he built it from Bender Turbo Systems. Including correct clocking of the turbo center section, FPP's flexjoint and V-band clamp exhaust inlet update, and the O2 sensor was installed before the turbo (not recommended due to high back pressure)...
All these are buried in these forums, take your time and so a little searching and reading to bring yourself up to speed on the latest hot setups and tuneups.
Nuge
Newbie
I have also noticed on the top of the turbo, there is a 1/2 threaded hole with nothing going into it? Is this normal?
DAGE
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most turbo's are oil and water cooled, the threaded holes you're looking at are for coolant lines
Kyle
Kyle
mbarryracing
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Yup, that is for the coolant lines that were used on the Nissan automobile (and others) that turbo was OEM'd on. This feature was to wick heat away to help reduce hot shutdown oil coking of the bearings (shut engine off right after running hard and glowing hot) with use of regular mineral oil motor oil that would be run in cars.
The Bender design didn't utilize that coolant option because they saw it as undesireable to have that +500 deg heat sink adding all that heat to the sled's coolant system when the added power from the turbo already taxes it... HP makes heat, big HP makes big heat...
Plus it's a rear mount and not up next to the plastic gas tank (like mid and front mounts) so no fire concern, and the motor oil typically run in these sleds is usually semi or full synthetic so bearing coking from hot shutdowns is a non-issue.
Some claim it's needed, but the numerous Bender and FPP rear mount turbo kit owners out there with 10's of thousands of trouble free miles on them tell a different story, coincides with the fact that Honeywell Garrett doesn't state coolant is a requirement. Use air cooled Porche 911 twin turbo as an example... no coolant.
There are coolant line kits you can buy from guys like Ted Jannetty and other if you wanted to add that if you were looking to run a non-synthetic oil or just for a peace of mind...
http://turboaddictionparts.com/catalog/ ... cts_id=288
The Bender design didn't utilize that coolant option because they saw it as undesireable to have that +500 deg heat sink adding all that heat to the sled's coolant system when the added power from the turbo already taxes it... HP makes heat, big HP makes big heat...
Plus it's a rear mount and not up next to the plastic gas tank (like mid and front mounts) so no fire concern, and the motor oil typically run in these sleds is usually semi or full synthetic so bearing coking from hot shutdowns is a non-issue.
Some claim it's needed, but the numerous Bender and FPP rear mount turbo kit owners out there with 10's of thousands of trouble free miles on them tell a different story, coincides with the fact that Honeywell Garrett doesn't state coolant is a requirement. Use air cooled Porche 911 twin turbo as an example... no coolant.
There are coolant line kits you can buy from guys like Ted Jannetty and other if you wanted to add that if you were looking to run a non-synthetic oil or just for a peace of mind...
http://turboaddictionparts.com/catalog/ ... cts_id=288
Nuge
Newbie
I spoke with Justin from Full Power Performance yesterday. He recommended installing a blow-off valve on the airbox, V-band clamps on the Y-pipe and told me to make sure there is only about 6lbs. of boost running through it for pump gas applications by using a 700 hex main jet in the tube by the brake disc. Do I have to spend big bucks on the BOV and V-Clamps? There seem to be some good deals on ebay for these things directed at the tuner car market. I've seen BOVs on there for under $100 shipped. I still have not run the sled, so I'm not sure what kind of boost it makes, but it had race gas in it when I bought it. I have to drive an hour for race gas, so I just added about 2/3rds of a tank of 94oct. pump gas and a bottle of Lucas Oil Octane Booster just to be safe. My next goal is to try and figure out what settings will be safe for running straight 94 oct. pump gas.
mbarryracing
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A BOV is a MUST HAVE, expecially for carbs to prevent over fueling (flooding) from the boost spike to the carb bowls when the throttle is closed in a decel...
BOV's are sized by how much HP you are pushing, because that is a direct result of how much air is flowing and hence how much air they need to release / flow.
There is a rather inexpensive BOV from a Saab car that is good to abour 250 HP, plenty for your application and it's small. You could get that at any car parts store. I run two of these, one on each side of the intercooler airbox.
The reason he told you not to run higher boost with pump gas is because your engine is stock compression so it will detonate easier. In order to safely run pump gas at higher boost levels you'll need to either decompress the motor with low CR pistons or a head shim, thicker head gasket, or install water/meth injection.
I agree, race gas is an inconvenience, but not convinvced octane booster is safe either...
I decompressed my motor so I can run higher boost on pump. Just remember that even at 6 lbs that is a land missle, and you'll need to dial your clutching in for whatever boost level / HP level you settle on to experience all the performance at that level.
BOV's are sized by how much HP you are pushing, because that is a direct result of how much air is flowing and hence how much air they need to release / flow.
There is a rather inexpensive BOV from a Saab car that is good to abour 250 HP, plenty for your application and it's small. You could get that at any car parts store. I run two of these, one on each side of the intercooler airbox.
The reason he told you not to run higher boost with pump gas is because your engine is stock compression so it will detonate easier. In order to safely run pump gas at higher boost levels you'll need to either decompress the motor with low CR pistons or a head shim, thicker head gasket, or install water/meth injection.
I agree, race gas is an inconvenience, but not convinvced octane booster is safe either...
I decompressed my motor so I can run higher boost on pump. Just remember that even at 6 lbs that is a land missle, and you'll need to dial your clutching in for whatever boost level / HP level you settle on to experience all the performance at that level.
maxdlx
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the lever in the exhaust cover allows yo to adjust the boost no matter which way the switch on the dash is. Say it is down/low and you have 7 lbs boost, you can use the rear one to bleed it down to 6
woodsrider
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You might find that the one up front isn't even hooked up any more. Some people were having issues with them freezing up and mal functioning. they relocated to the rear so the heat from the turbo would keep it thawed out. Personnally I thihk the switch is unnecessary since you usually want max boost all the time. If you want variable pressure settings, just get a manual boost controller and you can dial what ever you want.
DAGE
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I know all the turbo guy on this site like the Vortech BOV's but there are other ones that are just as good, the one I'm going with is a 1st gen. DSM (Eagle Talon/Mitsu Eclipse) BOV, I just bought one for 20$ shipped with the flange and you can crush them to handle more boost
Nuge
Newbie
Can a BOV be adjusted to the boost level it opens at, or do they come in various sizes? I thought I read somewhere they may open when a boost surge is detected, then they open??? Can I just cut o hole on the side of the airbox and gasket/bolt it on, or do I have to tig weld a flange onto the box and bolt it on?
dirty sanchez
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nuge, you can get race fuel at sparkys in tilbury, he has everything.
DAGE
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a BOV dosn't open according to boost, it opens when you let off the gas to remove the pressurized air from your surge pipe/intake, what I think you're talking about is a wastegate, it'll open at a certain PSI to regulate boost
also if I remember right Ted Jenetty highly recommends that a BOV be installed before the pitot jets, so that would be by your chaincase
Kyle
also if I remember right Ted Jenetty highly recommends that a BOV be installed before the pitot jets, so that would be by your chaincase
Kyle
dirty sanchez
Newbie
i use a vortech bov from janetty - works perfect. call ted janetty at janetty racing and he will tell you anything you need to know. has all parts in stock etc.
Nuge
Newbie
Well, went for the first ride today. Ran OK, but it did pop and crackle quite a bit just cruising, or when I was letting off the gas, even just a little. It ran like a bear when I got on the gas though, and this thing is LOUD!!! I'm screwed on the trails if the fish police are within 5 miles. Also put a new belt on before I went out. The one on it when I got it was in rough shape with strings hanging out the side and all. I get back in, took it easy the whole time as to "season" the belt, and this one has fuzzy cords hanging out of it already!!! The sled does have a Team "rapid response" secondary clutch on it, but I noticed almost 1/4in. of play (side to side of the sled)in it on the shaft. Shouldn't this thing be shimmed inline with the front driven clutch, or is this what is considered a "floating clutch", and will stay in line with the front primary clutch under load? As for the popping/crackling from the exhaust, I'm going to drive 45 minutes to buy race gas, and make sure it's not just an adverse reaction to the pump gas/octane booster I put in it. I also noticed on the boost gauge when I gave her a shot here and there, that this thing is reading WAY higher than the recommended 6lbs. of boost for pump gas. I saw near 15lbs. come up QUICK one time before I backed out! I flipped every switch every which way, and still could not keep the boost down. I'm going to look into a BOV and manual boost controller right away, but I was really hoping to be able to ride this thing instead of dick around with it before I have to go back to my crappy school/work schedule!
