A little help from the turbo guys RE: RX-1 w/ Bender Turbo

[BigDog05]

If you want to try and ride this sled w/o doing a lot of work right now, I would suggest the following.

Get rid of the boost switches. Just run one hose from the turbo to the wastegate canister.Take the clip off the canister where the rod goes to the wastegate. Adjust the rod so it just slips on the connection and the wastegate is fully closed, then shorten the rod about 1/8-1/4 inch so it takes a little pressure to hock up. This keeps it from fluttering and will gve you around 6-7 lbs boost.

Get a wideband air guel gauge.

Make sure the exhaust is not slipping where it connects back by the turbo.

Get it dialed in with 93-94 octane and then you can determine what direction you want to go.

Check and see if the carb tee's are black and glued on, or metal.

 

[mbarryracing]

No issue with the secondary clutch with end play, it is suppose to float unlike the Doo's.

Belt: Either you are slipping the belt and that chewing it up (tell tale sign is hot sheaves) or your alignment is off (not side to side because the secondary floats but your engine is cocked).

Check your clutch alignment.

X2 on what BigDog05 suggested!

I'll add that the mini muffler you have was Bender's "loud pipes safe lives" all out race version, FPP's dual outlet trail if the thing to have to avoid tickets.

 

[BigDog05]

X2 on the muffler. That thing is loud. I have the original trail dual exhaust and it isn't bad.

I'd like to hear mbarryracing's newer dual exhaust and see how much difference there is.

 

[Nuge]

I took a look at the pitot tube today to see what size jet was in there. It was a 700 hex main jet, but it had a rubber cap/nipple pressed over it. When I grabbed the cap to find out what size jet was under it, it disintegrated. Should this cap have even been on there in the first place? Could this be the cause of the "popping" sound while cruising or letting off the gas? Should I replace it? I can't understand why you would need a jet with a specific size orifice in there if you are just going to cover it with a cap?

 

[BigDog05]

My guess is the previous owner was doing away with the pitot jet system.

He may have just set the main jets for the pounds of boost he wanted to run and did not use the pitot jet.

Try running it with the rubber cap off. see if it pops more or less.

At 3000 ft elevation I run around 450- 500 jet for 12 lbs of boost and 550 -600 for 10 lbs of boost depending on temp.

Bender called for a 700 jet for 4 lbs and 400 jet for 8 lbs. If memory serves me correctly.

It seems that no 2 pitot jets are the same. Everyone seems to be a little different.

 

[BigDog05]

Mine popped early on, but seemed to be related to carb tee's. As soon as I put billet tee's on it was much better.

The only other time it would pop and fart was on hole shot, and Hurricanes carb springs helped that.

 

[woodsrider]

Plugging the pitot jet would indeed give you a very rich mixture. I would suggest that you verify the main jet size before riding it. The mains should be stock or what ever the sled required to run its best prior to being boosted. The pitot jet, IMO, is what made this system better than most others because it was so easy to change the pitot jet, hence changing the fuel mixture. the bigger the jet the leaner the mixture. It only takes about 30 seconds to change. I always carried several jets in 100 increments (400 to 1100) that would allow me to fine tune to the conditions of the day. However, I ride the mountains where you can have a 4000ft change in elevation. Still humidity, ambient air temp, elevation, etc all play a factor in tuning.

edit: YOU really should get a wideband A/F gage or at a minimum an EGT gage. It's not worth burning down w/o one. The wideband will help you tune much faster than anything.