NJNYTRO
Expert
Correct me if I am wrong but to adjust the toe on my skis , I make the adjustment on the rod ends? I just want to get feed backbefore I make the adjustments.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
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- 7,355
- Age
- 60
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- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
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- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Yes you can, but you should only do very minor adjustments that way. I would not recommend you doing it that way.
The correct procedure would be like this:
Check if your track is adjusted correctly and is aligned parallell with the tunnel, if not adjust to spec.
Jack up the front of the sled until the skis is off the ground. Take off air filter. Insert the Yamaha tool for aligning the steering, this would put the steering in the dead center position. If you do not have this tool, make sure the two arms going down to the tie rods are as close to vertical as possible.
If your handlebars is off center, you might as well adjust them back to center. This involves taking off the exhaust caps, rear covlings, seat, loosen all screws for the tank covling, removing gas tank. Adjust the steering rod going out to the right against the chaincase by loosen the locknut on both ends of the rod, then turn the rod until your handlebars are in the center position. While you're in there you should also check steering column bushings and lube them and all ball joints while you're at it. Reinstall everything and go on with the front end.
With the steering alignment tool in place the steering is placed in the dead center position and with the handle bars in center
, loosen the lock nuts on the tie rods ends on both inside engine compartment and on the outside. Check if your track is adjusted correctly and is aligned parallell with the tunnel and then place a straight edge along the side of the track, it has to be long enough to go from the rear of the track to the front of your skis, make sure the straight edge is perfectly straight 
Measure the distance from the straight edge to the center of your ski both in front and in the rear of the ski. Specs are 0 to 1/2 inch toe out, meaning that the skis are further apart at the front and closer together in the rear. The amount of toe-out would be determined by your likings, type of skis and carbide runners. I run them close to 1/4" toe out, works well in my application. Remember - 1/4" toe out on each side will net 1/2" total
Now adjust by turning the tie rod itself to get the skis in the correct position relative to the straight edge, when you're happy with it, tighten the lock nuts on both ends of the tie rod. Then go on the opposite side and repeat the procedure. Reinstall airbox, and you're done with it.
There is a reason for making the adjustment this way. If you f.ex. have to reduce toe out and do this by threading the outer tie rod end only you will end up giving away lots of threads on the tie rod end leaving very few threads holding the tie rod end to the tie rod, this may cause a hazard to yourself and others out on the trails.
The tie rod ens have counteracting or reverse threads on one end making it thread into (or out from) both tie rod ends simultaneously when making adjustments dividing the threads lost if going toe in when adjusting. Also using the steering alignment tool ensures that the tie rods and ends end up in the perfect position when adjusting. Only damaged front end parts and/or twisted steering column would throw it off beeing perfect.
It sounds like a lot of work, but you will thank yourself when your steering is adjusted just perfect.
Good luck adjusting.
rxrider
The correct procedure would be like this:
Check if your track is adjusted correctly and is aligned parallell with the tunnel, if not adjust to spec.
Jack up the front of the sled until the skis is off the ground. Take off air filter. Insert the Yamaha tool for aligning the steering, this would put the steering in the dead center position. If you do not have this tool, make sure the two arms going down to the tie rods are as close to vertical as possible.
If your handlebars is off center, you might as well adjust them back to center. This involves taking off the exhaust caps, rear covlings, seat, loosen all screws for the tank covling, removing gas tank. Adjust the steering rod going out to the right against the chaincase by loosen the locknut on both ends of the rod, then turn the rod until your handlebars are in the center position. While you're in there you should also check steering column bushings and lube them and all ball joints while you're at it. Reinstall everything and go on with the front end.
With the steering alignment tool in place the steering is placed in the dead center position and with the handle bars in center
, loosen the lock nuts on the tie rods ends on both inside engine compartment and on the outside. Check if your track is adjusted correctly and is aligned parallell with the tunnel and then place a straight edge along the side of the track, it has to be long enough to go from the rear of the track to the front of your skis, make sure the straight edge is perfectly straight Measure the distance from the straight edge to the center of your ski both in front and in the rear of the ski. Specs are 0 to 1/2 inch toe out, meaning that the skis are further apart at the front and closer together in the rear. The amount of toe-out would be determined by your likings, type of skis and carbide runners. I run them close to 1/4" toe out, works well in my application. Remember - 1/4" toe out on each side will net 1/2" total
Now adjust by turning the tie rod itself to get the skis in the correct position relative to the straight edge, when you're happy with it, tighten the lock nuts on both ends of the tie rod. Then go on the opposite side and repeat the procedure. Reinstall airbox, and you're done with it.
There is a reason for making the adjustment this way. If you f.ex. have to reduce toe out and do this by threading the outer tie rod end only you will end up giving away lots of threads on the tie rod end leaving very few threads holding the tie rod end to the tie rod, this may cause a hazard to yourself and others out on the trails.
The tie rod ens have counteracting or reverse threads on one end making it thread into (or out from) both tie rod ends simultaneously when making adjustments dividing the threads lost if going toe in when adjusting. Also using the steering alignment tool ensures that the tie rods and ends end up in the perfect position when adjusting. Only damaged front end parts and/or twisted steering column would throw it off beeing perfect.
It sounds like a lot of work, but you will thank yourself when your steering is adjusted just perfect.
Good luck adjusting.
rxrider
