giddy up go
Extreme
Finally done it 2011 Apex after kicking aroung the idea for a while now I went out and bought a 2011 Apex left-over. I love this sled and everything about it. Went for the new ski's and two sets of 6" carbides, it handles like they should.
I do have a concern thou my friend also bought the twin sled to mine only thing his had a few miles on it (used) We were out yesterday at +1deg c and his sliders melted to the track and we had to kick the track off the slider, now my idiot light came on so we cooled the slides down. on the trail there was lots of loose snow a bit packie thou. The other sleds in our group were 2010 vector, 2012 vector and a skidoo, 2011 apex's were the only ones that heated the sliders up.
Any ideas why these 2 would be the only ones causing grieve, what can be done to prevent this (there was lots of loose show).
I do have a concern thou my friend also bought the twin sled to mine only thing his had a few miles on it (used) We were out yesterday at +1deg c and his sliders melted to the track and we had to kick the track off the slider, now my idiot light came on so we cooled the slides down. on the trail there was lots of loose snow a bit packie thou. The other sleds in our group were 2010 vector, 2012 vector and a skidoo, 2011 apex's were the only ones that heated the sliders up.
Any ideas why these 2 would be the only ones causing grieve, what can be done to prevent this (there was lots of loose show).
MarkRTX
Expert
Go with the Excel wheels and problem solved at least in my experience. I have run some very sketchy conditions especially in the past 500 or so miles and my sleds worn to a point and have been fine since. From what I've heard about the Duponts I think I'll just stick with the regular slides when those are lasting me a season.
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MarkRTX said:Go with the Excel wheels and problem solved at least in my experience. I have run some very sketchy conditions especially in the past 500 or so miles and my sleds worn to a point and have been fine since. From what I've heard about the Duponts I think I'll just stick with the regular slides when those are lasting me a season.
Agree...
snowslammer
Extreme
i have 1000 miles on duponts and still like new and rode in all conditions so far i like them but wheels might be just as good for long term , guys that i know are getting 3500 -4000 miles outa duponts and when they changed them they still had time left
Irv
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giddy up go said:Finally done it 2011 Apex after kicking aroung the idea for a while now I went out and bought a 2011 Apex left-over. I love this sled and everything about it. Went for the new ski's and two sets of 6" carbides, it handles like they should.
I do have a concern thou my friend also bought the twin sled to mine only thing his had a few miles on it (used) We were out yesterday at +1deg c and his sliders melted to the track and we had to kick the track off the slider, now my idiot light came on so we cooled the slides down. on the trail there was lots of loose snow a bit packie thou. The other sleds in our group were 2010 vector, 2012 vector and a skidoo, 2011 apex's were the only ones that heated the sliders up.
Any ideas why these 2 would be the only ones causing grieve, what can be done to prevent this (there was lots of loose show).
Are they the XTX versions?
If not, then I would almost guarantee your track tension is tighter than the other sleds you were riding with, and quite possibly their sliders are already broken in/wore down already?
When sliders are new on these Yamies, you must make sure you get in the deep/loose stuff as much as you can until they wear in, especially before coming to a stop.
I currently have my track sag set at 1 1/2"inches of free sag, no weight attached and I get zero ratching.
Yamaha specs are way too tight imo.
yox185
TY 4 Stroke Master
Irv said:Yamaha specs are way too tight imo.
That's for sure.
heat exchange
Extreme
Giddy up I was out Saturday and after a run up the railbed of about 5kms I stopped and looked down because I could smell the sliders and my track was steaming.I run larger wheels(ski doo)and my slidders have over 2000Km on them now and are now down to the 10mm thickness .I run my long track tightened to almost yamaha specs.The snow was flying up behind me but not the best since our last warmup.I think the large wheel do help with slider wear.
Irv with that much track sag are you not worried that the track will balloon when you get up over 120 km/h and the studs touch the front exchanger when you slow down.I have lost a front exchanger because of running a loose track.
Irv with that much track sag are you not worried that the track will balloon when you get up over 120 km/h and the studs touch the front exchanger when you slow down.I have lost a front exchanger because of running a loose track.
icebreaker
Expert
I went to the excel wheels and fixed problem have 2500 miles on standard slides all sorts of riding conditions don't think I will spend the extra $$ on duponts.giddy up go said:Finally done it 2011 Apex after kicking aroung the idea for a while now I went out and bought a 2011 Apex left-over. I love this sled and everything about it. Went for the new ski's and two sets of 6" carbides, it handles like they should.
I do have a concern thou my friend also bought the twin sled to mine only thing his had a few miles on it (used) We were out yesterday at +1deg c and his sliders melted to the track and we had to kick the track off the slider, now my idiot light came on so we cooled the slides down. on the trail there was lots of loose snow a bit packie thou. The other sleds in our group were 2010 vector, 2012 vector and a skidoo, 2011 apex's were the only ones that heated the sliders up.
Any ideas why these 2 would be the only ones causing grieve, what can be done to prevent this (there was lots of loose show).
giddy up go
Extreme
Thanks everyone for all your advice will have the dealer loosen the track a little and maybe put the larger wheels on next. will try and see. Thanks again
NY AttakGT
TY 4 Stroke Guru
MarkRTX said:Go with the Excel wheels and problem solved at least in my experience. I have run some very sketchy conditions especially in the past 500 or so miles and my sleds worn to a point and have been fine since. From what I've heard about the Duponts I think I'll just stick with the regular slides when those are lasting me a season.
Not so sure about the Excel wheels and Duponts being the be-all/end-all solution, in my experience. I put the Excel wheels on beginning of last year, burned through 2 sets of slides in 2,000 miles. Put on the Dupont sliders this year (with Excel wheels) and have got about 1,500 miles and they are now toast. Track is as loose as it can go, loosened adjuster bolts so just a few threads are past the Nyloc part of the adjusting nut. Mine wear at the front curve in the rail and in the middle of the rail between the rear and middle idler wheels. Looks like I am going to add the wheels at front of rails and another set mid-rail. Frustrating not to get an entire season out of a set of Hyfax. This is for an '07 AttakGT with a Camoplast CObra track. Same thing when I had the original RipSaw and an Ice Ripper on the sled.
My SRX with M-10 suspension has had the same slides on for about 6 years, although it does not get that much mileage and the Hyfax are barely worn at all.
icebreaker
Expert
From what I see here on everyone's postings on slider wear it matters were everybody has different settings like track tension, limiter strap adjustment make a huge difference on how they wear.NY AttakGT said:MarkRTX said:Go with the Excel wheels and problem solved at least in my experience. I have run some very sketchy conditions especially in the past 500 or so miles and my sleds worn to a point and have been fine since. From what I've heard about the Duponts I think I'll just stick with the regular slides when those are lasting me a season.
Not so sure about the Excel wheels and Duponts being the be-all/end-all solution, in my experience. I put the Excel wheels on beginning of last year, burned through 2 sets of slides in 2,000 miles. Put on the Dupont sliders this year (with Excel wheels) and have got about 1,500 miles and they are now toast. Track is as loose as it can go, loosened adjuster bolts so just a few threads are past the Nyloc part of the adjusting nut. Mine wear at the front curve in the rail and in the middle of the rail between the rear and middle idler wheels. Looks like I am going to add the wheels at front of rails and another set mid-rail. Frustrating not to get an entire season out of a set of Hyfax. This is for an '07 AttakGT with a Camoplast CObra track. Same thing when I had the original RipSaw and an Ice Ripper on the sled.
My SRX with M-10 suspension has had the same slides on for about 6 years, although it does not get that much mileage and the Hy fax are barely worn at all.
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Get the Dupont slides.
Rich Kay
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Not tootin my horn here but I must be lucky..I have 6000 miles on my current standard slides?? Normal track tension,SLP slippery pads added to track, newer type spoked yamaha wheels, and mostly all in good snow conditions and the slides are not even near the wear line.
yamaha convert
Pro
I agree. I run the factory Ripsaw track on both sleds.NY AttakGT said:MarkRTX said:Go with the Excel wheels and problem solved at least in my experience. I have run some very sketchy conditions especially in the past 500 or so miles and my sleds worn to a point and have been fine since. From what I've heard about the Duponts I think I'll just stick with the regular slides when those are lasting me a season.
Not so sure about the Excel wheels and Duponts being the be-all/end-all solution, in my experience.
Looks like I am going to add the wheels at front of rails and another set mid-rail. Frustrating not to get an entire season out of a set of Hyfax. This is for an '07 AttakGT with a Camoplast CObra track. Same thing when I had the original RipSaw and an Ice Ripper on the sled.
I have the extra wheels at the front and at mid track on both my 07 Attack and Apex. I use the graphite slides and get well over 2000 miles on all types of conditions, but predominantly try and stick to reasonable snow. My first set of slides at 2300 miles had from .250 to .170 of material left depending on where you measured.
They had been at that for hundreds of miles, probably 700 odd from memory. This is because when they get down to that you in effect have oversize wheels. I only changed them as I pulled the suspension to look it over.
The factory wheels keep the track well of the hyfax. IMO the factory brackets on the 2007 models wasnt a great design and the rails would flex, so I used the later model wheel brakets that have 2 bolt holes (one top and one bottom) and replaced all the single bolt hole wheel brackets on both sleds with these to help stop the rails from flexing. I also made from 1/8" stainless the rectangular washers in the pics to spread the load on the rail where the bottom bolt is continuously pulling on the rail. And to top it of I used the half moon shape OEM wahers on the rails as in the pics, wherever I could for extra rail reinforcement, even though the top bolt holes dont do as much of the work on the wheels when using the 2 bolt bracket. It was a bit of messing around making the rectangurlar washers but I had a cracked rail on my Attack when I bought it and after a further 2000 miles the crack hasnt extended. By keeping the wheels as rigid as possible you are basically adding diameter if they arent flexing the rail.
On the pic of the wheels from inside the rail, that is my Apex with over 1500 miles on those hi fax. I set the track to the loose end of the factory tolerance, and no more, with a 20lb dumbell and my sleds never ratchet or have accelerated slide wear....so far. Well I hope it stays that way and I dont end up with some other problem LOL
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yamaha convert
Pro
Rich Kay said:Not tootin my horn here but I must be lucky..I have 6000 miles on my current standard slides?? Normal track tension,SLP slippery pads added to track, newer type spoked yamaha wheels, and mostly all in good snow conditions and the slides are not even near the wear line.
Rich
What exactly is the head - bolt of the anti wear pads made from?
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