OK, so I did my RX1 without any issue, but am trying to do a chaincase service on my Apex. I removed the caliper, the parking brake caliper, the circlip, spacer and washer on the rotor. I thought it would slide right off? It won't. What did I forget?
Alright, what am I missing?/Chaincase service, rotor removal
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LazyBastard
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It should. Try a puller.
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Re: Alright, what am I missing?/Chaincase service, rotor rem
Ya i was hoping for the same removal as my 03 maybe your uncle lawrence can shed some light.wolfie said:
No, don't pull harder. I am sure your RX1 is like my Attak and I just had it off this weekend. After removing the spacer that is held in place by the set screw, you should have noticed an o-ring on the shaft that is the oil seal for inside of the spacer. Carefully remove the o-ring with a very small jewelry screwdriver or the like. Then proceed to slowly slide off the outer chaincase cover. If you have reverse as I do it gets a little tricky as the yoke comes off of the lower gear but it will. There are tight tolerances for the bearing here so a even pull is very important or the bearing will bind on the shaft. If you do have reverse be careful of the washer on the reverse gear shaft and of the spring between the two reverse gears. Good luck.
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He's not at that point yet, his ROTOR is stuck.
LazyBastard said:
Thank you for pointing that out lol. It's bad enough they didn't put on a drainplug! And to beast, I asked Lawrence,as he's had his off several times already, and like LB, thinks it should slide right off. My puller isn't big enough, and I'm leary about bending or warping it.
jimmie d
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There is a drain plug inside the tunnel.
Jim
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What he said.....jimmie d said:
jimmie d
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Same spot as Viper either 12 or 14 mil bolt. Only problem on Apex is the bottom panel overlaps into tunnel slightly causing some oil to flow back into bellypan under chaincase.
Jim
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Hose it down with lots of WD-40 every 10 minutes or so for a few hours, then with a plumbing torch, heat the HUB, but NOT the shaft. Hopefully, the heat will expand it and allow you to tap it off lightly from behind against a block of wood.
Another option; there should be HOLES around the hub inside of the cooling fins. Weave a CABLE through them and around some loose HEAVY OBJECT, like a sledge hammer. The cable should be long enough that you can get a reasonable swing AWAY from the rotor before the cable stops it.
Maybe combine all of the above if one alone isn't enough. If the object you're swinging is heavy enough, it should definitely pull that rotor off.
most likely, the reason its stuck is because the key is rusted. It also could be stuck in the shaft. If it is, do NOT try grabbing it with vicegrips. Take a hacksaw and cut into the end of it, parallel to the surface of the shaft, and pry against that cut with something like a crowbar.
Another option; there should be HOLES around the hub inside of the cooling fins. Weave a CABLE through them and around some loose HEAVY OBJECT, like a sledge hammer. The cable should be long enough that you can get a reasonable swing AWAY from the rotor before the cable stops it.
Maybe combine all of the above if one alone isn't enough. If the object you're swinging is heavy enough, it should definitely pull that rotor off.
most likely, the reason its stuck is because the key is rusted. It also could be stuck in the shaft. If it is, do NOT try grabbing it with vicegrips. Take a hacksaw and cut into the end of it, parallel to the surface of the shaft, and pry against that cut with something like a crowbar.
