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Can't get driveshaft out


I believe the one Byam tried was aluminum?
I agree these shafts should be welded,machined to PROPER SIZE and trued. We need a source for that work. Guy could make a good living doing them I bet!

I could offer service with my father for a combo option. He could weld and machine them and then I install bearing lock.
 
Bearing can't be any good having spun on shaft that much. ID of bearing has to be worn. My guess is if you install it on a new driveshaft, it will be very loose. Even a few thousandths is too much IMO. When installing new parts seems like you need what so many others needed, either green retaining loctite, or BOP expansion fix he is almost ready to produce, or dimple driveshaft and loctite. So many of these have been destroyed like this, lots with not many miles on 'em. As per previous threads on this subject, VERY POOR design(Cat DNA).
Good luck. Glug glug glug.
 
I believe the one Byam tried was aluminum?
I agree these shafts should be welded,machined to PROPER SIZE and trued. We need a source for that work. Guy could make a good living doing them I bet!
Agree completely. AND, the splines are not hard enough as they wear seriously under the brake rotor. That needs attention too. Both the rotor splines and shaft splines wear out. Junk.
 
Bearing can't be any good having spun on shaft that much. ID of bearing has to be worn. My guess is if you install it on a new driveshaft, it will be very loose. Even a few thousandths is too much IMO. When installing new parts seems like you need what so many others needed, either green retaining loctite, or BOP expansion fix he is almost ready to produce, or dimple driveshaft and loctite. So many of these have been destroyed like this, lots with not many miles on 'em. As per previous threads on this subject, VERY POOR design(Cat DNA).
Good luck. Glug glug glug.
Yes your probably right, the inner race is likely worn some. I of course have a new bearing to go in and will use the BOP method to lock it in as well as dimple the shaft and loctite it lol.
 
Really well that sucks.
The production one I got from dealer still had .006 fit to new bearing,so we drilled and tapped it,all good now. Good luck. Cats tolerances are all over the place,sorta like an AK-47 to an AR-15,ones tight and shoots great for long distances,the other wide open tolerances,not the greatest at long distances,but shoots always,never jams,pick your posion carefully!
 
Do yourself a favor and get a 6009 2rs bearing. Fag, SKF, KoYo

NOT peer!

Edit not a 2009 2rs
6009 2rs
 
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The production one I got from dealer still had .006 fit to new bearing,so we drilled and tapped it,all good now. Good luck. Cats tolerances are all over the place,sorta like an AK-47 to an AR-15,ones tight and shoots great for long distances,the other wide open tolerances,not the greatest at long distances,but shoots always,never jams,pick your posion carefully!
One word buddy
CHINA
 
One word buddy
CHINA

The production one I got from dealer still had .006 fit to new bearing,so we drilled and tapped it,all good now. Good luck. Cats tolerances are all over the place,sorta like an AK-47 to an AR-15,ones tight and shoots great for long distances,the other wide open tolerances,not the greatest at long distances,but shoots always,never jams,pick your posion carefully!

Yea even the Russian AK47 it head and shoulders better than the Chinese made Ak47 pos.
 
Has anyone used one of these shafts? If warranty doesn't pick up the tab I may go this route.
Yes. I did and no its not the aluminum one. Skf bearing and green locktight. Everything fits very nice. Ready for testing.
 
I could offer service with my father for a combo option. He could weld and machine them and then I install bearing lock.
That would be great! I prefer a true slip fit. Have seen shafts that made it 9000+ miles with true slip fit. Once your lock is finalized would be best of both worlds.
Abom style
 


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