DT
Extreme
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- Michigan, Flint area
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- 2006 Attak
1015 Viper
I searched thru all the code 12 threads and now my eyes are bleeding.
Other day I put a new battery in my Attak and was riding it around my property. It was running great. I'm thinking all is right in the world and I shouldn't have bought the Viper that now is in the shop for not starting. Anyways, the next day, after leaving it outside overnight, it won't start and threw up a code 12 (Now I have 2 sled that won't run and the world hates me again). The sled would turn over very good, but not start. I put it into my heated garage and after a few hours, tried to start it again and after a few spits and stutters, the code is gone and it starts like nothing was ever wrong with it. So I ride it around some more and leave it outside again. The next morning, same thing, won't start but this time there is no code 12.
Does this sound typical of the Crank Position Sensor going bad? Not understanding why my code 12 is suddenly gone or if this is indeed the issue. I do own a multi-meter but don't understand which connector to actually test and what numbers I'm looking for.
Thanks for any help-
Other day I put a new battery in my Attak and was riding it around my property. It was running great. I'm thinking all is right in the world and I shouldn't have bought the Viper that now is in the shop for not starting. Anyways, the next day, after leaving it outside overnight, it won't start and threw up a code 12 (Now I have 2 sled that won't run and the world hates me again). The sled would turn over very good, but not start. I put it into my heated garage and after a few hours, tried to start it again and after a few spits and stutters, the code is gone and it starts like nothing was ever wrong with it. So I ride it around some more and leave it outside again. The next morning, same thing, won't start but this time there is no code 12.
Does this sound typical of the Crank Position Sensor going bad? Not understanding why my code 12 is suddenly gone or if this is indeed the issue. I do own a multi-meter but don't understand which connector to actually test and what numbers I'm looking for.
Thanks for any help-
ranger1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
If my memory serves me correctly, mine was intermittent but got worse & more frequent. I changed the sensor & stator, stuck with the Yamaha OEM because it bolts directly (plug & play) & has the proper gap. I heard stories of how the aftermarket R.M stator sensors have to be perfectly adjusted or it won't work.
Last edited:
TBay Sledhead
TY 4 Stroke Master
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01 SXR Long Track
The holes in the RM stator bracket are a little of and have to be files out 2mm if my memory serves me to get the proper air gap. also need to cut and solder the wires.
tomanytoyz
Lifetime Member
Replace it . It's on it's way out . You don't want to be miles away from wherever and it fail ya.
DT
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1015 Viper
I will buy oem sensor/stator if you guys are positive this is what it sounds like, but curious as to why the code disappeared? This is normal for this sensor while "on it's way out"? Does the sled automatically re-set its self? I though the codes had to be manually reset?
DT
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1015 Viper
I just talked with a Yamaha mechanic and he says this code could have showed up because the sled wouldn't start and was below a 1500rpm threshold while cranking over for a while. Suggested spark plugs instead. I will change them out tonight but am still curious if; any of you guys that experienced a crank sensor going bad, notice that if you got the sled restarted, did this code 12 go off or did it stay on?
thanks-
thanks-
tomanytoyz
Lifetime Member
Has it been replaced? Or is it stock. How many miles ? they seem to go and act up from 7000mi and up. If this is the case , it's on it's way to failing completely. It's not going to get better.
As to why the code is on then off ? obviously something is going on.could be in between bad and good .
As to why the code is on then off ? obviously something is going on.could be in between bad and good .
DT
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1015 Viper
15,000 miles, original stator & position sensor. The code part going off is what bothers me.
DT
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1015 Viper
So, I put in new plugs and still nothing. At the moment it will still crank over good but not start. Also, there is now no code on the gauge. Because the gauge showed code-12 one time, should I still be leaning towards this? Suggestions???
tomanytoyz
Lifetime Member
I'm going to say yes . At this mileage , it's weak . No code , but you did have a code .
You can buy oem complete $$$ or buy a complete unit from RM stator for half the price . A complete unit.
You can buy oem complete $$$ or buy a complete unit from RM stator for half the price . A complete unit.
apex55
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
$257 at Partzilla.comI'm going to say yes . At this mileage , it's weak . No code , but you did have a code .
You can buy oem complete $$$ or buy a complete unit from RM stator for half the price . A complete unit.
DT
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1015 Viper
Yep, I ordered Stator & Gasket from Partzilla. Will update later in week if it works.
Thanks-
Thanks-
hotrod
Veteran
Have you checked the memory on your scan tool. The crank sensors sends omes readings to your computer. You might still have a code 12 in the memory. On my 06 apex I had a code 12 and it would not start. I turn the heat on in the garage and about one hour later it finally started. Next day it started okay and I put hundred and 40 miles on. Next day it would not start at all. No code 12 showing. I went in the memory of the computer and code 12 was showing. Change it before you get stranded.
DT
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1015 Viper
Have you checked the memory on your scan tool. The crank sensors sends omes readings to your computer. You might still have a code 12 in the memory. On my 06 apex I had a code 12 and it would not start. I turn the heat on in the garage and about one hour later it finally started. Next day it started okay and I put hundred and 40 miles on. Next day it would not start at all. No code 12 showing. I went in the memory of the computer and code 12 was showing. Change it before you get stranded.
Thanks hotrod. I went ahead and ordered an OEM stator assembly. As a side note, I've been a machinist for 35 yrs and am always impressed with Yamaha's manufacturing and machining quality. Anyways, I'm installing it now and will report back shortly. All our snow has melted so won't be able to "take it for a spin" but can start it anyways.
Not sure what you mean scan tool?? I assume this is a factory tool? Also, will I have to clear any codes that are "in the background" that don't necessarily show up on the gauge?
Thanks
DT
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1015 Viper
Installed the Stator/CPS assembly last night, turned the key and it fired up like it was in line at the Sault 500. The weather outside is 50's so obviously test riding it around here is out but I'm sure this was the issue. Figured out how to use my tester and tested the new CPS ~490 ohms. The old one is over 18,000.
On a related note; in my research for Stator/CPS info, I came across some older threads here (I guess my Attak is old now) discussing hand warmer mods and how they could damage the electrical system. They were talking about using the 06 to 07 handle bar wire connector. Something about parallel vs series and using up 1.21 gigawatts (or something like that) and how it could possibly overload and hurt the stator. Well I've been using that wire mod since '07 and my stator still tested perfect. I could have just changed out the CPS and been on my way but I chose to keep it all OEM.
Hopefully the dealer where my Viper is will hurry up and get it fixed (been over 3 weeks) so I can take the wife up north to ride before all snow is gone.
Thanks everyone for your help!
On a related note; in my research for Stator/CPS info, I came across some older threads here (I guess my Attak is old now) discussing hand warmer mods and how they could damage the electrical system. They were talking about using the 06 to 07 handle bar wire connector. Something about parallel vs series and using up 1.21 gigawatts (or something like that) and how it could possibly overload and hurt the stator. Well I've been using that wire mod since '07 and my stator still tested perfect. I could have just changed out the CPS and been on my way but I chose to keep it all OEM.
Hopefully the dealer where my Viper is will hurry up and get it fixed (been over 3 weeks) so I can take the wife up north to ride before all snow is gone.
Thanks everyone for your help!
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