Has anyone put a 1.5' X 144" Freeride track on the Mountain lite in place of the stock 2" Maverick track. What was the difference noticed and how is it in the powder.
I'd like to know the same...anybody?
I may try it for my son - he can trailride it here and throw the 2" back on and join us in the mountains when we go.
Am I correct that the driver pitch is 2.52 on these sleds ('07 Mtn Lite)?
I may try it for my son - he can trailride it here and throw the 2" back on and join us in the mountains when we go.
Am I correct that the driver pitch is 2.52 on these sleds ('07 Mtn Lite)?
If your going to spend the money on a new track go with a 151 2.3 inch challenger, it makes this sled a whole different animal. you gear it down to a 17 tooth top gear and you wont believe how quick this sled is. In only lost 2-3 mph on the top end. This track flat hooks up. By far this has been the best mod I have done on this machine. I did not notice any loss in drivability. Still as nimble as always!
phzmtnlite
Pro
Tbyrd, I agree this sled needs some track help. I have riden 4000 miles of boondockin in the UP of Michigan. I like the machine in many ways but the track speed leaves much to be desired. Logging roads it does well but climbing it just doesnt cut it, Do you climb with your and if so, what improvments did not notice. i am ready to sell my mtn lite for a better power to weight ratio sled and unfortunatly it wont be a Yammi. if i ever buy another trail sled it will be "hands down" a yammi. If i could climb better i would consider keeping it but not sure if it is capable with 80 hp.
I also see you runs the simmons gen 2 ski's. I wan't some of those, how do you like them compared to the crap stiock one's
I also see you runs the simmons gen 2 ski's. I wan't some of those, how do you like them compared to the crap stiock one's
First let me say I know what you mean on the treack speed and climbing issues. I put the challenger 151 2.33 inch on this year and had read an artical on clutching that was summed up by saying "If you want track speed under load the easiest way to achieve is to gear the sled down and top end loss is marginal to non existant due to the secondary opening into overdrive". I found this to be rite on the money, I am now able to climb with my cousin who has a 99 700 rmk 151 2inch. We pretty much trade off high marking each other. Now last year, with maverik track I was at like 1/2 to 2/3 what he could do. I can also out drag him up top 60 mph. Never stood a chance befor. When I climb now I can easily maintain 50+ mph track speed. Best thing I ever did to this sled. I am a solid 190 lbs before i put my gear on. Also I let out my limitter strap and it also made a world of difference in weight transfer and climbing, a must in my book. As far as the Gen 2 ski's go I got them 2 weeks ago when we had some rain and we haven't got fresh snow yet, but what little crusty snow riding iv'e done they are a huge improvement with darting. I am going to play with my clutch weights a little to see if I can bring my top rpms up a little under heavy load. But i need some fresh powder to do that. Hope that helps. I will tell you your going to have a hard time finding a sled that is as nimble as the phazer, thats why i love this thing. And my back isn't sore when i'm done with a 100 miler. 
Shoprat
Extreme
Tbyrd
Did you have to cut down the 151 Challenger, or did it come in a 14" version. I have read numerous times about people cutting down tracks, but no one has said anything about longevity after the process. Also where did you get your intake air pods and do you think it helped?
Did you have to cut down the 151 Challenger, or did it come in a 14" version. I have read numerous times about people cutting down tracks, but no one has said anything about longevity after the process. Also where did you get your intake air pods and do you think it helped?
Yes it was a 14 wide. I bought the track from tracks usa with the extention rails. I have read about guys cutting them dowm, if you go that route i would look for a 2 1/2 inch paddle. The one thing i realy like about the challenger is it has alot of paddles they are thick and dont bend over. The air pods are uni pods i got from dennis kirk but i would not use them again. They have inherant problems, there is a steel ring melted into the bottom to give it a ridge to hold foam in. All mine started falling out and i sucked one of the foam inserts through my motor, I then took out all the wire rings and wire tied my foam in, no problems since. I have now boght a set of D&D Bullseye air pods and am waiting for new air box cover from yamaha to instal. I will say these appear to be far supperior to the uni's, they are 1 1/2 compared to 1 inch uni's and dont have any parts that can fall out and get sucked into your motor.
Yes i did notice a difference but it was all installed at the same time(Excell exhaust ,uni pods,fuel curve adjustment) now my rpms have increased enough i have gotten a bunch of different rivets to play with my clutching to dial it back in. Mainly I end up over reving on the bottom all the time and when I drag my buddy who just got a phazer this year(still all stock) I pull away from him with ease. It is not a huge difference but a difference for sure.
Yes i did notice a difference but it was all installed at the same time(Excell exhaust ,uni pods,fuel curve adjustment) now my rpms have increased enough i have gotten a bunch of different rivets to play with my clutching to dial it back in. Mainly I end up over reving on the bottom all the time and when I drag my buddy who just got a phazer this year(still all stock) I pull away from him with ease. It is not a huge difference but a difference for sure.
Shoprat
Extreme
I hate to ask so many questions, but what areyou using to adjust your fuel curve, and how do you know where to set it? Also with the air pods, do you leave the priginal intake location of the airbox open, or do you close it to force the air through the pods?
I left the air box open, just wanted to mix in some cold air with the warm. And there was a post last year on here where you get into the diagnostic mode on the guage pod and you can richen or lean the fuel curve. It only works through the whole curve you can't richen mid range or top end it does it through the whole range only. I did this because of free flowing exhaust and air pods, wanted to make sure it didn't get leaned out. If you need more info let me know.
Shoprat
Extreme
Yeah, I would be interested in how you did that.
Thanks
Thanks
I'm not sure if this is going to work. Here is the info on fuel adjustment.
Ok so that didn't work i'll just write it out.
Here it is, but I hear if you lean it out it can be a hard starter when cold. Also, you ruin warranty on engine if any thing happens after playing with fuel injection and Yamaha notices it.
You'll find the green wire that the instructions refer to inside the main electrical hose down under battery (inside where hose is fattest so you have o cut it open) You must take both right side plastics to find it.
Adjustment done will be the whole power band, you can't just lean it down low if you know what I mean.
1) Install a wire or paperclip in the pale green wire in the conector on the right side. It's a male conector only with no mate. Wire only needs to be grounded.
2) Enter Diagnostic Mode:
-Key and kill switch off, press and hold both "select and reset" and then power up the gauge (key and kill on)
-Wait 8 seconds and the gauge will go blank except for "DI" in the display
-Press select to toggle between "DI" and "CO", select "CO"
*if there is no selection recheck your ground
-Press and hold both "select and reset" 3 seconds
-Gauge will display "C:01" this is where you select which cylinder you want to adjust
-Press and hold "select and reset" 3 seconds and a number will appear in the odometer section,(will be 0)
-Press select to increase the number (richer) reset to decrease the number (leaner)
*adjust it to read 10 for richer, -10 will be leaner
-Press both select and reset and chose C:02 and adjust the same as above, you must do this for each cylinder. The engine will run normally in CO mode so you can change settings with the engine running or on the trail. To reset simply turn off key or kill switch and the gauge will return to normal.
This is pretty easy, it's not as hard as it sounds. Good luck.
Here it is, but I hear if you lean it out it can be a hard starter when cold. Also, you ruin warranty on engine if any thing happens after playing with fuel injection and Yamaha notices it.
You'll find the green wire that the instructions refer to inside the main electrical hose down under battery (inside where hose is fattest so you have o cut it open) You must take both right side plastics to find it.
Adjustment done will be the whole power band, you can't just lean it down low if you know what I mean.
1) Install a wire or paperclip in the pale green wire in the conector on the right side. It's a male conector only with no mate. Wire only needs to be grounded.
2) Enter Diagnostic Mode:
-Key and kill switch off, press and hold both "select and reset" and then power up the gauge (key and kill on)
-Wait 8 seconds and the gauge will go blank except for "DI" in the display
-Press select to toggle between "DI" and "CO", select "CO"
*if there is no selection recheck your ground
-Press and hold both "select and reset" 3 seconds
-Gauge will display "C:01" this is where you select which cylinder you want to adjust
-Press and hold "select and reset" 3 seconds and a number will appear in the odometer section,(will be 0)
-Press select to increase the number (richer) reset to decrease the number (leaner)
*adjust it to read 10 for richer, -10 will be leaner
-Press both select and reset and chose C:02 and adjust the same as above, you must do this for each cylinder. The engine will run normally in CO mode so you can change settings with the engine running or on the trail. To reset simply turn off key or kill switch and the gauge will return to normal.
This is pretty easy, it's not as hard as it sounds. Good luck.
Shoprat
Extreme
Thanks, that is great to know.
SKIP
Extreme
My brothers 08 MTX came with the freeride track. Works great as a crossover, but the sled hits the limiter on hard pulls. We are gonna try some heavier weights to bring the revs down. Never got to try the original 2.3 on it, but for the type of riding we do in Ontario it is not necessary.
Cheers
Cheers
Jeremy
Expert
nice picture !!!!!!! really nice picture !!!
