Anyone having a lack of coolant on warm days

[kinghooker]

I have a warrior with 2800km on it we've had some warm days +5 degrees celius and noticed some coolant puddles after I'd stopped for an hour or more. I added some coolant to the resevor but the next day there didn't seem to be any left in the resevior after riding an hour. The light on the dash never came on and havn't had any trouble until the last couple of days, I've checked the hoses that I can see I havn't taken off the belly pan thought I'd check here first. Thanks in advance

Kinghooker

 

[LazyBastard]

Its the temperature. Add a rear heat exchanger. Will make a noticeable difference. Before the rear heat exchanger, my coolant level would consistently adjust itself down to about 1/2" below the level line. Now I have added coolant to 1/2" below the TOP OF THE TANK, and it stays RIGHT THERE.

 

[Buckeye]

I have the rear heat exchanger and it still drops below on warm days. It pisses it out the overflow. I just add a little before the next ride.

 

[POWERHAULIC]

Many sleds seem to have defective caps, letting coolant out when they shouldn't. I fix I have used successfully is install an o-ring under the cap gasket to increase sealing.

 

[LazyBastard]

A better solution is to just go to your local autoparts store and buy a higher pressure cap.

 

[kmer]

.................we've had some warm days +5 degrees celius and noticed some coolant puddles after I'd stopped for an hour or more. I added some coolant to the resevor but the next day there didn't seem to be any left in the resevior after riding an hour. ............

Was forever 'adding' to the reservoir last year. :? Just kept topping it up. Then after hearing from the dealer and sources here that the fluid level indicator on the reservoir was typically high on Yamahas.. they recommended just leaving enough in the reservoir that you could only just see it. :shock: That worked fairly well and planned to keep riding that way. 8)

But, this fall, just for fun :wink: ... after raising the tail end and bleeding the cooling system (bolt in rear cross-over tube).. then topped up the fluid in the reservoir. I added too much but left it that way figuring it would just find its own level anyway....however, after several long rides and recent warm temperatures.... things seem to have improved (little, if any, coolant loss) 8) ..... it looks like bleeding the system was necessary - in my case at least..... others have bleed the system different ways (like raising the front end 45 deg on a snowbank and opening the reservoir cap to let air out of the front exchanger :!: )....

either way, i'm certainly convinced that the possiblity of trapped air shouldnt be overlooked when troubleshooting your cooling system :wink:

 

[LazyBastard]

Yeah, as bubbles work their way out of the system, the coolant level will naturally drop. This does NOT, however, account for puddles of coolant that come out the vent tube.

 

[Buckeye]

Do the 04's use a different cap?

 

[POWERHAULIC]

I believe the cap is the same.

 

[DYNAREX]

try redlines water wetter-this stuff is awsome

 

[Mighty]

I don't know this for a fact but have read that they changed the cap for 04. Mine is fine.

 

[kmer]

Yeah, as bubbles work their way out of the system, the coolant level will naturally drop. This does NOT, however, account for puddles of coolant that come out the vent tube.

Unless...trapped air in the system, expanding with the heat, causes fluid to be forced out of the vent until the system reaches equillilbrium.... the air remains trapped, eventually cooling and shrinking leaving the fluid level in the reservoir low.

 

[LazyBastard]

It shouldn't generate a sufficient pressure to cause the air to expand with higher pressure than the coolant.

 

[kmer]

It shouldn't generate a sufficient pressure to cause the air to expand with higher pressure than the coolant.

:? As heat is added to the system pressure increases due to expansion of both trapped-air and coolant-liquid. If the air remains trapped, the volume of coolant lost will be roughly equal to (slightly less than, actually) the amount of air expansion.... hence, the puddles. :wink: As it spits outs coolant, the system pressure eventually drops until it reaches the desired system pressure set by the spring-seat in the cap.

Adding a stronger cap will only cause the system to spit out slightly less coolant if trapped air is not removed.

The '03 and '04 cap part numbers are identical.

 

[LazyBastard]

The spring on the coolant cap is set to be able to maintain a vapour pressure in the system that is greater than what would be achieved by the actual vapour pressure of the coolant at the temperature of the engine - but LOWER than the pressure caused by the liquid volume expansion. Under correct operating conditions, the coolant will expand with the heat to a certain volume, which will compress the air in the tank as well as any bubbles in the system - the bubbles actually get SMALLER when the temperature rises. The coolant level will rise in the tank, forcing AIR out the cap until vapour pressure equalizes. The difference between the "cold" and "warm" line on coolant tanks (obviously not labeled on this one) is the amount that the coolant volume changes when heated. If the coolant level is no higher than the "cold" level on any vehicle when the engine is cold, then it should NOT overflow *even with bubbles* in the system, UNLESS the temperature rises above design.

Some people can experience coolant loss if too much water is mixed with the antifreeze - the antifreeze has a lower vapour pressure than water. If coolant leakage is a problem, drain *some* coolant and replace with PURE antifreeze to increase the concentration. WARNING though: if the concentration of antifreeze is too high, the vapour pressure will be too low, increasing the chance of developing bubbles in the system. It depends on the pressure to prevent bubbles from forming.