Apex engine oil drain bolt tourque

[APEXMTSEO7]

Has any body ever had problems stripping the engine drain hole threads in the oil pan when touquing to the manual spec of 22 ft lbs or is it safe to touque to this spec?

 

[musselman]

I have not had any issues with the threads at the specified torque. Just make sure the bit is in good condition and seated in the bolt so the end doesn't strip.

 

[Sasquatch]

22 ft pds is not much! I use Squatch arm rating, pull-----yep thats tight! I'll add make sure the allen head socket is metric and the right size. I also tap the allen socket in to the hole to make sure its seated. Some people hate allen bolts and fasteners, I have always loved them!

 

[APEXMTSEO7]

Has anybody else had any problems stripping the aluminum threads in the engine oil pan drain hole while tourquing the plug to 22 ft lbs as per spec in the manual?

 

[Teamblue4]

no problems, and I have changed the oil 7 times.

 

[Winderallday!]

22 ft/lb is minimal, should not strip out unless threads compromised or cross threaded at some point.
I torque mine "man-tight".

 

[gitrdun]

From the factory, I think I remember having to put an extension on my powerbar to overcome some robot's interpretation of gutentight. But for the last 10 years at 22 ft. lbs., it feels fine. 6mm Allen.

 

[Redbeard]

I've never torqued my drain bolt on the engine or the oil tank. Snug it up, but don't get carried away.

 

[Rich Kay]

I've never torqued my drain bolt on the engine or the oil tank. Snug it up, but don't get carried away.

YEP...

 

[CaptCaper]

I got rid of the Allen Button bolt OEM. Replaced with a Hex Flange Head with the copper washer. Tired of it stripping in the Allen slot. Maybe I tighten too much. But Yamaha likes those Allen bolts. But Hex's in the exhaust, Engine etc. would be much better.

 

[Sasquatch]

I got rid of the Allen Button bolt OEM. Replaced with a Hex Flange Head with the copper washer. Tired of it stripping in the Allen slot. Maybe I tighten too much. But Yamaha likes those Allen bolts. But Hex's in the exhaust, Engine etc. would be much better.

Unless you use the wrong allen wrench I can't see how one could strip them! Hex bolt heads are way easier to strip! I love Allen heads but I know many try to use a standard Allen on metric sleds, secondly if you don't seat the socket in the bolt your going to have problems. Just like a hex head if you only use 1/4 of the surface of the bolt its going to strip! But the poster is asking about the threads not the bolt head!

 

[CCCT]

I did mine snug foot pounds.

 

[CaptCaper]

Unless you use the wrong allen wrench I can't see how one could strip them! Hex bolt heads are way easier to strip! I love Allen heads but I know many try to use a standard Allen on metric sleds, secondly if you don't seat the socket in the bolt your going to have problems. Just like a hex head if you only use 1/4 of the surface of the bolt its going to strip! But the poster is asking about the threads not the bolt head!

No I don't use SAE ( you call Standard) on Metric allen heads. And depends on how the last guy tightened them before I came around. And I feel a good Hex 6 point head is better then an Allen head as far as I'm concerned. More surface area. Allens don't appeal to me in larger sizes ..specially the shallow ones Yami uses. I replaced my Y pipe brackets with deep allen head grade 8's... thou instead of hex. Never stripped a hex in my long life of using tools. I replaced all mine with flange hex head grade 5 with Yamis copper washers. No worries now.

 

[Sasquatch]

No I don't use SAE ( you call Standard) on Metric allen heads. And depends on how the last guy tightened them before I came around. And I feel a good Hex 6 point head is better then an Allen head as far as I'm concerned. More surface area. Allens don't appeal to me in larger sizes ..specially the shallow ones Yami uses. I replaced my Y pipe brackets with deep allen head grade 8's... thou instead of hex. Never stripped a hex in my long life of using tools. I replaced all mine with flange hex head grade 5 with Yamis copper washers. No worries now.

If anyone before you used SAE (standard) in a metric allen your going to have problems. Unlike you or rather the opposite I've stripped more bolts (hex head) then Allen heads. Some hex head bolts are also as you say shallow and sometimes tips of the head are ground reducing the area of the head to grip. Part of the problem comes from the tool itself and how tight it seats on the bolt same as how the Allen tool (I use Allen tools that fit on a 3/8 drive or 1/2 inch drive ratchet) or socket seats. Sockets wear hex and allen tools as well. Same as some tools are substandard with poor tolerances, all these things cause problems. I have ground down Allen tools to get a better seat in a stubborn socket bolt, I've cleaned the bolt with a small wire brush to make sure the socket seats properly! The key to a Allen bolt is the tool must seat properly and can't be loose in the socket. If it is you take steps to correct either issue!

I only argue the hex is better then Allen point because people think they are inferior and must be changed at all costs. I have never had a problem with them. I seat the allen tool in the socket and make sure it is seated before I apply pressure to it. Same as the Phillips screw head, proper fit and it works perfectly! My tractor is British and I must use Standard or metric to get a good fit so I don't cause damage I have no BSW tools!

Both my Warrior and Apex retain all thier Allen socket bolts, I see no reason the change them. Couple taps to seat the socket and they work perfectly! Like you I have wrenched a long time, 50 plus years now but don't take my love for allen bolts as an attack on you personally. Each to thier own, you don't like Allens and I love them. Like the Yamaha sleds they are on they are misunderstood and maligned.