06dukeGT
Extreme
x2 on the impact driver! Just dont hit your hand
yamaha1973
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06dukeGT said:x2 on the impact driver! Just dont hit your hand
X3
jagabom
Extreme
I am going to put antiseize compound on next time.
Jim
08 APEX
Jim
08 APEX
Irv
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jagabom said:I am going to put antiseize compound on next time.
Jim
08 APEX
I wouldn't. You don't want any hint of that stuff in your engine, especially the type that contains metal.
Lube up the bolt with engine oil, including the crush washer, don't over tighten and you will be fine.
jagabom
Extreme
You are right in what you are saying Irv. The problem occurs when the flat part of that Allen bolt makes contact with the flat part of the oil pan. Not the threads of the bolt that most of us think of. By putting a SMALL brush of antiseeze compound on that part, the bolt won't seize. Now, will that get into the engine. Since we are not putting that stuff on the threads and are just putting a small amount on the bolt flat part, no, none will get into the engine. Remember, the bolt has to screw about a 1/4 inch into whatever to hold. Just don't goop that s%^t on.
08 APEX
08 APEX
gitrdun
Lifetime Member
On the 2007 Apex, the oil pan bolt torque was 22 ft. lb., not to be confused with the oil tank bolt which was 12 pounds torque. My first oil change, that pan bolt was extremely hard to get off from the factory, but ever since if properly torqued to 22 ft. lbs., I don't recall any recurring problems. I would also stay away from the neverseize. Just leave the oil on the bolt.
biffdotorg
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You guys are always great with advice. Thank you so much.
Just wondering how you might use an impact driver under a sled? No swing room. Might have to put the skis up on blocks to get some swing room in there.
Thanks again guys!
Just wondering how you might use an impact driver under a sled? No swing room. Might have to put the skis up on blocks to get some swing room in there.
Thanks again guys!
mbarryracing
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Man, I wouldn't use a hammer driven impact type driver on an oil pan drain bolt... it's threaded into a cast aluminum oil pan that doesn't have a metal insert. And if you didn't hurt the threads then you could possibly crack that oil pan, then your SCREWED. Use the correct metric bit on a 3/8 ratchet or breaker bar and it WILL break loose. Don't use an Allen Wrench, it will just flex and strip it out.
apex55
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Yamaha sells an oil change kit that has the oil, filter and replacement washer for the drain plug. As long as I've changed the washer I haven't had a problem.
thor452
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I too would use extream caution with impact driver but have had sucess with impact air gun and correct once you get it off the first time it has not been a problem i think the factory is over torqueing them and that is causing the problems on the first oil change.also sometime with it being stuck together on the flats sometime tighting the bolt till it budges will break the seal and it will come out easy as well. just some thoughts.
Glacierrr
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Had same problem on 2006 attak... Someone suggested heat by starting engine and warming up to operating temp. It worked like a charm. Let it run until I felt it was good and warm then it broke free relativity easy. Stopped there and waited for it to cool then removed fully and drained... You also get a little more out it seems because oil is warm and running little smoother.
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