Apex Skid Prep for Beef Up and Powder Coat

[biffdotorg]

Ok, guys,

Reading the TY forums have done nothing but boost my confidence in ripping my Apex apart. As a few have read in my A-arm bushing thread, you walked me through pulling the airbox and successfully replacing my A-arm bushings and putting it all back together with a successful fire up with no error codes!

Now I have pulled my 9700 mile skid out of the Apex GT and prepping it for Half-baked beef up kit and powder coating. I'm having one issue and it is getting the upper track guide wheels off of the suspension component.



For the life of me, I can't figure out how these come off. They look like they are pressed on, and maybe some WD-40 will loosen up their grip on the shaft, but I was unable to make them budge.

As you can see from the rusty welds, this skid is overdue for the kind of TLC that Half-baked can give it.

Your help is always appreciated. Thank you!

Mark

PS: I may need a source for black rivets too if anyone has any ideas.

 

[steiner]

I use a block of wood and a large hammer. Place the wood on the floor. Place the axle verticle on the block of wood. Now with the hammer, bang on the wheel (near the bearing race) that is closest to the block of wood. This will usually knock the bearing race free of the axle. When I get a real stubborn wheel I remove the C-clip that holds the wheel on the bearing and then knock the wheel off the bearing and then deal with the bearing itself.
Soaking the area with penetrating fluid will help as well.

 

[biffdotorg]

Good to hear. That is what I was doing, but I was thinking that I was trashing that wheel. Neither side seemed to budge.

So it looks like I will be soaking that area with WD-40 then and working on it some more.

Not like it's work! It's 70+ degrees, the windows are open, Jimmy Buffet is streaming in the garage, I have a mixed Morgan on the bench. It's fun work once my mind gave up on any more snow.

 

[Roadrider]

Wd40 is good for spraying your fishing lures, get some
kroil or at least lps.

 

[Teamblue4]

Screw the bolt back into the threads about half way, tap on the bolt with a rubber hammer, should slide the shaft out, do this on both sides one side at a time though.

 

[JROCK]

black rivets can be had at sledtoyz site sponsor but is in canada but ships to the USA. How do you like that spring setup on the ohlins shock?

 

[biffdotorg]

They HyGear Twisted spring kits seem to do the job. I have them on the Ohlin's EC shock and the front shocks.

Even when I'm at 230lbs, that GT seems to be on a limitless air cushion. I can see how other sleds ahead of me react to bumps, stutters etc and my Apex floats through.

HyGear truly set this up for my weight with the revalve and springs. (Actually, the weight of the previous owner. I was just lucky enough to be within 10lbs of him) I'm glad he spent the cash as HyGear isn't the cheapest, but they know what they are doing.

 

[thor452]

probabaly a good time to replace those wheels as well

 

[welterracer]

We await your parts.. if you have an issue getting the wheels off we can do that for you.. You will however need all new bushings unless you just replaced them.. (doubtfull) lol

It will loook better than new when done..

THanks

Brian

 

[apex55]

Wd40 is good for spraying your fishing lures, get some
kroil or at least lps.

PB Blaster. Just be careful spraying it inside because the wife get's pissed

 

[biffdotorg]

That's what my local auto parts store recommended as well was PB Blaster. Man that crap did stink. My workbench has a little soaked into it as it went right through the rags I had laid down.

Even after sitting overnight, those suckers still didn't come off. Brian at Half-baked said he should be able to get them off. My guess a torch will probably be needed. Better have a fire-extinquisher close Brian, as there is plenty of flammable stuff on it!!

We will see how this goes as Half-baked should see the parts tomorrow. I have already placed my order for replacement bushings, rivets and one new rail cap as I sacrificed one while trying to drill out the rivet. GRRRR!

Since those parts were off in UPS, I started the next project, polishing the phazer tunnel. Won't have to worry about that with the black tunnel on the Apex.

More to come.......

 

[snowdust]

It's too late now.. but for the future.... Screw the bolt back in the shaft on one side. Put it in a large vice horizontally so the jaws are at the back of the wheel. You can now use a good size hammer to pound that wheel off the shaft. (You are actually pounding the head of the bolt so the shaft is moving off of the wheel) Once one side is off you can just slide the shaft out the other side so you don't have to remove that wheel. These can be a pain.

 

[Roadrider]

Kroil is the smallest known solvent molecule. The stuff
has been around since the 40's or 50's. PB blaster
isn't in the same league. But don't take my word for it,
google it. There's been a lot of comparison testing done. The only other penetrant I use is evinrude johnson motor tuner. It has a faint smell of acid in it.
Given a weeks time it seems to etch away at rust and
corrosion. Great for making rubber extremely slippery as well.

 

[sleddog66]

Ever try coke for a penetrant? Sounds strange, but I tried everything on a rusted on large wheel once. Hitting with a large mall, and could not get it to budge. Sprayed some coke on the rusty area, walked away for about 5 minutes. Came back, and the wheel was laying on the ground. Then I grabbed the rest of the can of coke and drank it.....scarry stuff though.

 

[biffdotorg]

Coke is an amazing thing that way.

I had a wireless remote foot control for a MinnKota motor that had all the batteries corrode inside of it. They were a mess.

I opened it up and got the batteries out, then laid it in the sink and dumped coke into the battery compartment. I had nothing to loose and the rest of the remote was sealed for use in the boat.

The coke took out all the corrosion and I was able to rinse it and put batteries back in. IT WORKED!!

All sorts of tricks that are worth sharing.