newfattak
Veteran
Last winter I read somewhere is this Forum, I think it was by Turk, that he found a good set-up for the Attak, he said, to remove the inner rivit and reduce some weight of the middle one, grind a bit off.
I come to find out that I was running with empty arms, bought used with 400miles and the fellow went to the mountains with it and that was the mod he did, regardless, I always saw around or close to 11,000 rpm pending snow conditions.
I did pick up the correct weights and plan to leave the inner rivet out, what if any difference am I going to achieve.
Should I leave the secondary twist at 3-3 with this set-up?
Any advice will be appreciated
I come to find out that I was running with empty arms, bought used with 400miles and the fellow went to the mountains with it and that was the mod he did, regardless, I always saw around or close to 11,000 rpm pending snow conditions.
I did pick up the correct weights and plan to leave the inner rivet out, what if any difference am I going to achieve.
Should I leave the secondary twist at 3-3 with this set-up?
Any advice will be appreciated

Turk
Tech Advisor
A lot depends on rider weight on those sleds. A heavier guy will need to remove some weight to get rpm,s in the sweet spot. Also when you get into deep snow you will be lucky to see 9k rpm,s. The stock clutching is very aggressive & is meant for a 160 pound guy on hardpack snow. If I had more time last year I would have tried stock weights with a shallower start angle on the helix with a close to stock finish angle. I think for a heavier guy something close to a 47/41 Dalton might work well but I just didn,t have time to play with a lot of combo,s. I did get heelclickers to work very very well even only pulling 10,200 rpm.
newfattak
Veteran
I am about 210-215, so I am hopin that doing what you have suggested in the past with the inner rivet/middle.
I think just by putting the weights back in will make for more of an aggresive take off, seeing that I was running empty last winter (unaware), as after mentioning this to a few people, they said if I liked the performance then you will feel and like the sled even better.
As coming to think about it it did seem to take awhile to get the revs up there.
I think just by putting the weights back in will make for more of an aggresive take off, seeing that I was running empty last winter (unaware), as after mentioning this to a few people, they said if I liked the performance then you will feel and like the sled even better.
As coming to think about it it did seem to take awhile to get the revs up there.
Hey Turk what do you suggest for a heavier guy than that say around the 310 mark other than go on a diet which i am LOL was 342 HEHE
Turk
Tech Advisor
I would remove the inner & a good portion of the middle rivet(grinder flush with weights) & you should be close. You may need a helix with a slightly shallower start angle also but try that 1st & pm me after you run it on snow.
newfattak
Veteran
Thanks
, will do and keep ya posted, as for Helix what a good starting point, I know I changed out my Viper with your set-up on the secondary, and boy did it improve, alot of people where surprised how quick it became, pro-x 700 finally was agood match
, usually won 2 out 3 so for being bone stock it was impressive. I like stock, with fine tuning as its more representive of its capabilties from factory.
If I can recall it was a 53/43 with spring change, is that going to be anywhere close of an angle for a 4 stroke?
, will do and keep ya posted, as for Helix what a good starting point, I know I changed out my Viper with your set-up on the secondary, and boy did it improve, alot of people where surprised how quick it became, pro-x 700 finally was agood match
, usually won 2 out 3 so for being bone stock it was impressive. I like stock, with fine tuning as its more representive of its capabilties from factory.If I can recall it was a 53/43 with spring change, is that going to be anywhere close of an angle for a 4 stroke?
Dano
TY 4 Stroke Master
MUSKOKA APEX RTX 07 said:Hey Turk what do you suggest for a heavier guy than that say around the 310 mark other than go on a diet which i am LOL was 342 HEHE
Just get a Turbo and keep eating

**sj**
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Turk said:A lot depends on rider weight on those sleds. A heavier guy will need to remove some weight to get rpm,s in the sweet spot. Also when you get into deep snow you will be lucky to see 9k rpm,s. The stock clutching is very aggressive & is meant for a 160 pound guy on hardpack snow. If I had more time last year I would have tried stock weights with a shallower start angle on the helix with a close to stock finish angle. I think for a heavier guy something close to a 47/41 Dalton might work well but I just didn,t have time to play with a lot of combo,s. I did get heelclickers to work very very well even only pulling 10,200 rpm.
Turk...If I keep my attak ...I want to try the clickers as well....I go 210-215 and wonder what you ran ...also I have a 47/41 teflon coated helix (my fav trail cam)..or I can run a heelclicker roller unit with a 42 or ???? and am interested in your input...as to the weights...I assume your referring to the two speeds...btw have you seen his new weights...weird eh?
Turk
Tech Advisor
In my attak I ran the 40/20 hammertimes empty with a g-g-g spring & a 41/31 advantedge roller. Sled came out at 10k & ran up to 10,200. It was a slight underev but with that set up it was the quickest my attak ever was. Engagement was about 4k & no drop in rpm,s on holeshot.I talked to randy(hc) at haydays & talked at length on the new weight design. He offered me a set to test for free but I said they were too ugly to put in my sled. He gave me a set of the new 38/ 20,s with a slightly flatter shift curve to test in my Nytro.
**sj**
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too ugly....lol...thats what I was thinking..funny..
you thnking 38/10's for my attak????
you thnking 38/10's for my attak????
Turk
Tech Advisor
I would run the 38/20.s. Flatter shift curve for better top end & about 2 grams lighter.
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