attak clutching

[camoman]

I am running into an issue with my attak in deep sticky snow. Runs top notch on hardpack but get it in 3-4 ft of powder all day and I can blow through 2 belts. My clutches get so hot I cannot move the sled until they cool and will fry your finger if you touch em (learnt the hard way). Even when they cool down the belt seems to want to pull half way into the secondary to get it to move which is like "pulling in overdrive"..

I was thinking of adding the ulmers stage 2 kit to see if that would help?

I am running a 1 1/4 ripsaw with studs. I am looking to upgrade to 1.5 inch track this season which will only worsen the situation if I dont fix it.

Any advice for me?

Thanks very much!

 

[Turk]

Attak ain,t a deep snow sled. it trenches like crazy & clutches overshift.
Gearing & clutching only minimal help.
For deep snow get an xtx nytro.

 

[Viper_Dave]

I don't know Turk, mine does pretty good with stock clutching in deep snow..... and geared down 2 teeth on top...... and an Expert 136 setback to a 144 ... and a 1.5 Crossover LOL. Seriously, I put a 1.25 Predator (six pitch) on mine before I ever rode it. The Ripsaw trenches badly offtrail and allows the cluthches to overshift. I ran mine with secondary wrapped to 80 and the limiter pulled WAY up. Also put Powderhounds on before the 2nd trip. did OK. My first trip last season I had installed the 144 Hartman extension, Hauck exhaust and Mountain Mod seat. Didn't get the Expert in until the second trip. Same suspension and clutching. AMAZING difference! Sled pulled up and out of it's trench with ease. The rear extension in stock form sits way to low. The Hartman angles up right fro the rear of the exhaust, allowing the snow to exit and not drag. Probably more info than you were looking for LOL. Just my experiences,


Dave

 

[camoman]

Thanks Viper_Dave!

Do you over rev at all with the gear down? I was also thinking of doing this but don't want to constantly be bouncing of the rev limiter all the time..

I was thining of staying with the 136 but putting on a 1.5 crossover...

What is stock wrapp on the secondary and what did wrapping it to 80 do? faster back shifts?

Thanks!

 

[Viper_Dave]

No over rev. Solid 10,800 with the occasional bump to 11,000. Never heard or felt the rev limiter kick in. My 136 setup was 80% wrap when I got the sled. Pulled 10,400-10,800 With the Predator track.On or offtrail, same rpm. I couldn't be happier with the sleds performance. My original belt is still in the sled with 4600+ miles on it. I did change primary and secondary springs when I stretched it to 144. Both stock springs. My advice would be get a new tunnel extension, one that sits atop the tunnel and lets the snow out better. Have had zero issues with overheating since I did the stretch. Used to overheat on LONG runs on hardpack. IMHO the Crossover is a great track. I'll be going taller for western tips though

 

[rxrider]

What turk says goes when running the mono skid. We have good results running ZX-2 and supertips, it climbs on top and the clutches does not slip much if any running 24/38 gearing, if geared lower slipping will be totally eliminated. This is in a turbo charged Attak. The mono trenches like crazy, I don't like that skid for off trail riding.

 

[copo427ss]

there are holes behind the primary clutch that let snow and water in. i have the same problem when playin in the fields. i can trail ride and be fine. ride hard for miles and the clutches are perfect temp. but carve a few turns in the fields and there goes the belt. im also clutched. i think what happens is when riding in real deep powder and carving turns. the snow is getting forced through these openings, getting on the belt and making it slip. the guys that water skip their sleds were having that problem with water coming through. somebody on here made a plate to cover them.

 

[camoman]

there are holes behind the primary clutch that let snow and water in. i have the same problem when playin in the fields. i can trail ride and be fine. ride hard for miles and the clutches are perfect temp. but carve a few turns in the fields and there goes the belt. im also clutched. i think what happens is when riding in real deep powder and carving turns. the snow is getting forced through these openings, getting on the belt and making it slip. the guys that water skip their sleds were having that problem with water coming through. somebody on here made a plate to cover them.

That sounds like exactly whats happening to me.. I can ride in deep snow all day (powder pros help that a ton) .. but when I start carvin and playing around in deep snow a lot she heats right up and belt is done...

I will have to search for these holes!

Anyone else have this exact issue?

 

[Turk]

Your underevving (overshifting) in deep snow. The clutches get hot & the belt explodes. There is no snow or anything else getting into the clutches. The open web design is actually helping to keep things cool.
This is the exact issue...overshifting on a sled that does not like deep snow to begin with!

 

[camoman]

Ok so I understand the problem,

what I need to find out is what is the best thing I can do to improve it without buying a completely different skid or selling it and buying an XTX.

I am sure this can be somewhat improved with gearing and clutching?? I don't mind loosing top end to get better mid and low end torque. What I don't want is to hit the rev limiter all the time.

 

[rxrider]

Heavier weight arms and shallower helix will help you in the right direction as a general recommendation. Lower gearing as well.

 

[camoman]

Here's what I am planning..

1) got a great deal on a ulmers stage 2 kit..
2) I am thinking of stretching the sled to 144" with 1.375 cobra track with 144 or 151 tunell extension.
3) gearing to 21 top gear.
4) 9t skidoo extros

I didn't want to go higher then 1.375 or 1.5" track as I still want to trail ride this sled. Seems as though there are a ton of people that love the cobra track and claim it's a night and day difference in powder compared to the ripsaw.

Do I have to change my chain to go to a 21tooth top gear?

Think this is a good start??

 

[rxrider]

What gears do you have in there now? And what chain?

Going from a 23/38 to a 21/38 gearing requires you to change out the stock 70 link with a 68 link chain.

 

[camoman]

Stock 23/28 gearing in the Attak and stock chain (not sure of links).

Can I go to a 22/38 without touching the chain?

 

[rxrider]

Attak comes stock with 23/38 and 70 link chain.

No you can't, 22/38 also requires use of a 68 link chain.